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The Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2020 show, Monday at 8pm CET in Paris. Watch the show live on Instagram. Artwork inspired by the allegorical tailors quilt at St Fagans National Museum of History, Amgueddfa Cymru – National Musuem Wales. #McQueenAW20 #PFW

A post shared by Alexander McQueen (@alexandermcqueen) on Feb 28, 2020 at 7:58am PST

今季則來到威爾士，到處都是壯觀起伏的山陵，而 Celtic 民族色彩和豐富文化遺產，完全讓 Sarah Burton 為之著迷，特別是 Dylan Thomas 浪漫主義的詩歌，甚至鍾情於聖費根國家歷史博物館中展出的 Wrexham Tailor 被子作品。Wrexham Tailor 從1842年開始十年間不斷收集製衣用剩下的羊毛碎布，然而縫製完成眼前極度精緻的絎縫手工創作。更意想不到的是，精巧的絎縫設計從聖經場景到當時正受到威脅的手工藝的工業革命，盡展出具有歷史力量的藝術。

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A tailors’ quilt single-breasted coat with a swallow tail constructed in an embroidered patchwork of red, damson, ivory, grey, and black flannel. Taking inspiration from James Williams’ tailors’ quilt at St Fagans National Museum of History, Amgueddfa Cymru – National Museum Wales. #McQueenAW20 #PFW #AlexanderMcQueen Music: ‘At First Sight’, written and performed by Daniel Avery and Alessandro Cortini (published by Phantasy Sound Ltd., Administered by Bucks Music Group Ltd. / Mute Song ltd, licensed courtesy of Phantasy Sound under exclusive license to [PIAS]), including a reading from the works of Dylan Thomas (Our Eunuch Dreams, January 1939 and Light Breaks Where No Sun Shines). ©️ The Dylan Thomas Trust. Courtesy of The Dylan Thomas Trust.

A post shared by Alexander McQueen (@alexandermcqueen) on Mar 3, 2020 at 9:56am PST

如此震撼人心的手工藝深深觸動了 Sarahs Burton 設計出鮮有的拼接圖形剪裁，更向過往與 Alexander McQueen 合作過的羊毛廠收集羊毛絨布，並以幾何色塊打造出象徵力量的旗幟，同時不忘展現出標誌性維多利亞剪裁：複雜嵌花處理和印花。

其實這著名的威爾士毛毯同時象徵了「保護、包裹、照護和友善」，這完成是現今最值得讓人渴望的價值。因此 Sarah Burotn 今季系列的設計 moodboard 上有一張來自1930年代的舊照片：相中有三個威爾士工人身穿休閒的假日服裝，身邊的初生嬰兒便是被類似圖紋的毛毯所包裹着，讓 Sarah 看見家庭溫馨的愛意。

難怪時裝展的背景音樂帶有鳥鳴聲和孩子聲音的穿插，與模特兒腳底下的厚重靴子或是富有鐵片的鞋跟碰撞木地板的聲音相互交織，彷彿是 McQueen 的勇士們穿上 Sarah Burton 筆下的精緻盔甲制服、格紋拼接花呢設計配油皮革斜肩帶，還有暗示着民間浪漫童話的鋼紗刺繡晚裝，展現出巾幗不讓鬚眉的英式女英雄。