第42屆香港電影金像獎頒獎禮於4月14日在香港文化中心大劇院圓滿結束，影后劉嘉玲身穿Schiaparelli 2024春夏系列禮服亮相，負責頒發「最佳新演員」及「新晉導演」獎項，她的頸項掛上搶眼的金色龍蝦，令不少網友笑言劉嘉玲是向1991年的電影《與龍共舞》中的葉德嫻致敬。
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除了劉嘉玲，Zendaya在《Dune: Part Two》宣傳時也選擇了一件來自Schiaparelli 2024 春夏成衣系列的象白色裙裝，裙子前方點綴有龍蝦造型的褶皺，據說是是向《Dune: Part Two》中虛構的奇怪生物致敬，裙子前方點綴有龍蝦造型的褶皺，據說是向《Dune: Part Two》中虛構的奇怪生物致敬。而Selena Gomez也是穿著有著龍蝦裝飾的禮服，登上了Vogue Mexico和Vogue Japan。
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龍蝦為何如此受到Schiaparelli的時尚總監Daniel Roseberry的青睞？這時間軸或許要回到最初由Elsa Schiaparelli所打造的最初版以及超現實主義藝術家Salvador Dali的創作。
Wallis Simpson in the Salvador Dali/Elsa Schiaparelli Lobster dress, 1937.
Photographed by Cecil Beaton, Vogue, June 1, 1937
1936年， Salvador Dali 創作了《the Lobster or Aphrodisiac Telephonee（龍蝦電話）》，當時《Vogue》的藝術總監Mehemed Fehmy Agha為雜誌撰寫了一篇名為《Surrealism or the Purple Cow》的解說文章。在其中，他提到 Salvador Dali 曾穿著潛水服在倫敦演講時「差點因為有人忘記打開氣閥而窒息致死」。Agha繼續解釋藝術家的穿著「意在解釋從意識深處向下垂直降落的象徵」。或許就是在那裡， Salvador Dali首次接觸到這種底棲龍蝦潛藏於藝術腦海中的意念，然後透過Elsa Schiaparelli進入時尚界（他的作品《抽屜之城》也是如此）。
Fantastical sea-inspired fashion from 1830.
Photo: Science & Society Picture Library / Getty Images
Dali/Schiaparelli的lobster collaboration, 1937
Another look from Dali/Schiaparelli’s lobster collaboration, 1937.
Artwork by Karsavina, Vogue, May 15, 1937
1940年的一件雷尼鯊魚皮紡織的泳衣，印有龍蝦圖案
A rayon sharkskin swimsuit printed with lobsters, 1940.
Photographed by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, June 1, 1940
Charles James的《La Sirene》連衣裙，通常被稱為龍蝦裙
Charles James’s La Sirene frock, popularly known as the Lobster dress.
Artwork by Cecil Beaton, Vogue, December 15, 1944
Charles James’s La Sirene frock, popularly known as the Lobster dress.
Photo: Chicago History Museum / Getty Images
Christian Dior FW06高定系列，由John Galliano設計
Christian Dior, fall 2006 couture
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Christian Dior, fall 2006 couture
Photo: Marcio Madeira
不論這些創作者當初的腦袋在想什麼，他們的著名龍蝦裙已是夏季系列的一部分，也許它只是對當季的一個幽默創作。從那時起，龍蝦已成為時尚中超現實主義的簡化符號，並被其他設計師所引用。其中一位是帽子設計師Philip Treacy，他為時尚達人Isabella Blow和Lady Gaga創作了有爪的龍蝦帽。然而，Thom Browne可能是繼Elsa Schiaparelli後最痴迷龍蝦的設計師；這與他對傳統學院派的顛覆性看法很合拍，也讓人聯想到石板房和沙灘的形象。
英國女星Emma Corrin喜歡龍蝦，她追隨了法國詩人Gérard de Nerval的愛好，據說Gérard de Nerval曾在巴黎牽著一隻寵物龍蝦散步。但Emma Corrin更進一步，在2022年登上美版VOGUE封面時，她不僅溫柔地照顧這個海洋生物，還像它一樣打扮，更激發了這場對時尚龍蝦的讚美。
Philip Treacy為Lady Gaga設計的帽子
Thom Browne對於龍蝦的熱愛，展現在時裝設計上。
Thom Browne, spring 2012 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com
Thom Browne, pre-fall 2022
Photo: Courtesy of Thom Browne
Tsumori Chisato FW13
Tsumori Chisato, fall 2013 ready-to-wear
Yannis Vlamos / InDigital | GoRunway
Tsumori Chisato, fall 2013 ready-to-wear
Yannis Vlamos / InDigital | GoRunway
Tsumori Chisato, fall 2013 ready-to-wear
Yannis Vlamos / InDigital | GoRunway
Maison Margiela FW14高訂
Maison Margiela, fall 2014 couture
Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com
Schiaparelli SS17高訂
Schiaparelli, spring 2017 couture
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Dolce & Gabbana SS17
Dolce & Gabbana, spring 2017 ready-to-wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Thom Browne SS13 Menswear
Thom Browne, spring 2013 menswear
Photo: Gianni Pucci / GoRunway.com
Thom Browne, spring 2019 menswear
Photo: Kim WestonArnold / Indigital.tv
Schiaparelli SS24
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 28: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Schiaparelli Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 28, 2023 in Paris, France.
Photo by Estrop/Getty Images
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 28: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Schiaparelli Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 28, 2023 in Paris, France.
Photo by Estrop/Getty Images
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 28: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Schiaparelli Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 28, 2023 in Paris, France.
Photo by Estrop/Getty Images
原文轉載自美國版《Vogue》
Editor
Hillary Huang
