來到2019年，時裝界終逐漸穩定，繼Bottega Veneta 的新創作總監Daniel Lee與Lanvin新創作總監Bruno Sialelli發佈首個Runway表演獲得大眾一致掌聲，另一邊廂卻傳出Bruno Sialelli違反與前雇主LVMH簽署的競業協議限制條款而被控告。
雖然官司的去向未明，但無礙觀眾對一上任便引來不少新聞報導的Bruno Sialelli的興趣。
我的任務就是不能愧對自已，不能出賣這一代。
Lanvin創作總監Bruno Sialelli
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: Fashion Designer Bruno Sialelli walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: Fashion Designer Bruno Sialelli walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)
他曾任Loewe男裝設計總監，在時裝設計領域擁有豐厚經驗，曾在Nicolas Ghesquière和Alexander Wang的領導下，擔任Balenciaga女裝季前系列的設計師，之後任職Acne Studios高級女裝系列設計師。 到底他來到Lanvin，又有甚麼計劃？「我的任務就是不能愧對自已，不能出賣這一代。我愛時裝，我很熱情、很跳脫，我想將這種性格注入Lanvin這個品牌，在她固有的系統內作出改變。」Bruno Sialelli 為 Lanvin 打造的首個系列，只花上了一個半月，便為品牌帶來翻天覆地的轉變。他認為Lanvin一直塑造的，是一種前衛女士的形象，像把龍蝦加上裙裝上，玩弄顏色的印花等等。「那種風格，是一種1970年代的前衛。但是潮流會進化，人類要與時並進，Jeanne Lanvin的前衛精神總不能留在1970年代的框架。」
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
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為了平衡這個品牌的基因與創意，Bruno Sialelli 認為最重要是給她一個適合的定義，除了要當代，這個新的形象更要歌頌女性的自由，給Jeanne Lanvin的精神帶來新世代的面貌。Jeanne Lanvin 對 Bruno Sialelli 而言，最吸引是她的故事、她與女兒的關係，和她熱愛藝術的造詣。「我不能夠再利用Jeanne Lanvin的作品為創作藍本，唯有把她的精神轉化成靈感，再幻想我為我身邊的朋友設計衣裳，為這種精神添上一份當代的筆觸。」今季男女裝合併的時裝展，同樣預視了日後的Lanvin的男女裝將會更加和諧。我認為購物體驗已不需要分辦性別，同樣是把Lanvin與當代接軌的其一策略。
雖然他說「做得越多，便要做得越好。」被問到他接管品牌黑女裝部門，有沒有承受過大壓力時，他卻說「完全沒有」。堅定的語調來自他的自信，「若然這個點子行不通，總會有下一個點子。做什麼也好，總會有帶來壓力的時候，但是我很相信自已的團隊，所以我知道事情最後總會解決的。」被問到未來的發展方向， Bruno Sialleli 希望能夠堅持創新，把設計靈感與互不相關的事物連繫，從此帶來新意，像cashmere 的 babydoll dress，再配一頂法式棒球帽。希望在潮流公式化的年代，繼續接受來自不同團員的概念和想法，為Lanvin寫下全新的章節。
「Lanvin未死。」Bruno Sialleli 繼續解釋「你看看我們有這麼多的辨工室，有那麼多的員工。每季依然在推出系列，Lanvin不是一個已死的品牌。」看他首季色調像日出般浪漫及充滿希望的色調，便得知品牌已渡過黑夜，重新迎接太陽的來臨。
Editor
Daniel CheungCredit
Photo courtesy of Lanvin
