John Galliano 的確在設計Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024春夏系列時就知道了今年Met Gala的主題,但這和Margiela在今年紅地毯上病毒式走紅毫無關係。因為無論如何,John Galliano的設計都是紅地毯上的常客,他以帶有浪漫色彩、戲劇性設計、衝擊力造型的風格著名。

就像今年一月,他在巴黎亞歷山大三世橋下上演的一齣令人無法抗拒的戲劇一樣,這場時裝展讓我們看到了這個時代的John Galliano,他還是充滿了創意和奇思妙想。自那晚之後,明星們對Maison Margiela的需求便成倍增長。

先是Hunter Schafer出席柏林影展時,就選擇了Margiela一月高訂系列中的禮服,再是Anya Taylor-Joy在電影《Dune 沙丘瀚戰2》紐約首映禮上,同樣選擇了Margiela,以及Kendall Jenner出席奧斯卡after-party時也穿着了Margiela。所以當明星們在Met Gala上集體選擇Maison Margiela時,也的確沒有什麼好驚訝的。

BEVERLY HILLS, CALIFORNIA - MARCH 10: Kendall Jenner attends 2024 Vanity Fair Oscar Party Hosted by Radhika Jones at Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts on March 10, 2024 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Leon Bennett/GA/The Hollywood Reporter via Getty Images)
BERLIN, GERMANY - FEBRUARY 16: Hunter Schafer of the movie "Cuckoo" attends the "A Different Man" premiere during the 74th Berlinale International Film Festival Berlin at Berlinale Palast on February 16, 2024 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 25: Anya Taylor-Joy attends the "Dune: Part Two" New York Premiere at Lincoln Center on February 25, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by John Nacion/Getty Images)
BEVERLY HILLS, CALIFORNIA - MARCH 10: Kendall Jenner attends 2024 Vanity Fair Oscar Party Hosted by Radhika Jones at Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts on March 10, 2024 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Leon Bennett/GA/The Hollywood Reporter via Getty Images)
BERLIN, GERMANY - FEBRUARY 16: Hunter Schafer of the movie "Cuckoo" attends the "A Different Man" premiere during the 74th Berlinale International Film Festival Berlin at Berlinale Palast on February 16, 2024 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 25: Anya Taylor-Joy attends the "Dune: Part Two" New York Premiere at Lincoln Center on February 25, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by John Nacion/Getty Images)
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這次的聯合主持Zendaya原本在盛會舉行前四周對要穿什麼禮服都還沒有概念,最終她的造型師Law Roach為其選擇了John Galliano的兩套不同時期的設計。第一套是來自Maison Margiela的電光藍色高訂禮服,服裝採用薄紗和歐根紗斜裁縫製,這套禮服靈感參考了John Galliano曾在1999年為Dior設計的高訂禮服。同時向Yevonde Middleton的攝影作品以及古希臘的傳說《A Midsummer Night’s Dream》致敬。

當晚她的第二套造型則是一套來自John Galliano此前還在Givenchy所設計的典藏作品。這個look來自Givenchy 1996春夏高訂系列,這套造型由Lily et Cie公司提供,是為數不多的古着造型。

當晚呈現了精彩表演的Ariana Grande,則表示自己身穿Maison Margiela的綠色禮服,猶如「來自John打造的星球的一位Margiela仙子」。「當我看到草圖時,我哭了。當我試穿時,我又哭了。整個造型和經歷都如此獨特,這是我至今為止最愛的一套造型。」Ariana隨後又表達了自己對這套造型的熱愛。當然像另一位聯合主席Bad Bunny雖然絕不會真的流淚,但他對John的另類剪裁同樣熱愛,甚至還用西裝面料製成的花卉,向Met Gala的著裝主題致敬。

Galliano為這些明星打造了一個又一個令人稱讚的造型,也證明了在這個浮躁的行業,對某些原則的恪守多麼難能可貴。Gwendoline Christie曾為了走上Margiela2024春夏系列的伸展台,閱讀了無數的資料讓自己「入戲」,她身穿血橙色天鵝絨圓柱連衣裙和黑色絲綢薄紗外套,在大都會博物館的台階上重新扮演了Maison Margiela的角色。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Gwendoline Christie walks the runway during the Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pierre Suu/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Gwendoline Christie walks the runway during the Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pierre Suu/Getty Images)
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接著是Kim Kardashian,她在品牌巴黎時裝展上將自己的腳擠進了第一雙Tabis裙子後,就給John Galliano打了一個電話,毫無疑問,她想再Met Gala上大顯身手。而誰又能拒絕這位曾穿上了Marilyn Monroe的「Happy Birthday Mr. President」禮服的女人呢?即使和她2019年穿的那件Thierry Mugler濕身禮服相比,今年這件灰色羊絨開衫搭配盔甲式半身裙和銀色鏈條裙要顯得更有看點。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Kim Kardashian attends the Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pierre Suu/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Kim Kardashian attends the Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pierre Suu/Getty Images)
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Met Gala紅地毯上頻繁出現的緊身胸衣也歸功於Margiela這一季時裝展。不過Galliano從來都是不可預料的,他自己穿着簡單的黑色西裝就出席了,反倒把一雙Margiela的分趾鞋穿在了一個更不可能的人身上——Adrien Brody,這位演員在自己的Instagram簡介上寫著:「在縫隙中成長,尋找光明,多一點微笑」,這段話也無意中概括了Margiela本季的風格。

原文出自:《VOGUE》英國版