從品牌的檔案中尋找靈感重塑經典,幾乎是每位設計師的指定動作。其時入主 Dior 快一年的 Maria Grazia Chiuri,將目光鎖定在品牌2000年的作品 Saddle Bag;誕生短短18年的設計談不上是經典,但其引人入勝的獨特美學,足以再度成為時尚焦點。

設計初始於1999年 John Galliano 掌舵 Dior 時的作品,並於2000年春夏季正式登上天橋。除了採皮革用料之外,亦經常出現各種顏色鮮艷的印花圖案,當中最經典的莫過於報紙印花款式。靈感一如其名,來自馬術文化——戰亂頻繁的中世紀時期,騎士們用皮革製作成一個呈半圓形,設計偏平的儲物袋,並用鞍帶和繩結掛在馬匹身上出征,此後便演變成驍勇善戰的騎士在戰場上常用的馬鞍袋。John Galliano 取其精髓,將原本由男士專用的馬鞍袋換上簡約的皮革幼肩帶,換上更柔美的線條,並把品牌原本的 CD Logo 簡化成單一的金色 D Logo 金屬釦。設計很快就被當時得令的名模與明星所擁戴,在神劇《Sex and the City》亮相過後更奠定其地位,在2000年達到高峰的 “it bag” 潮流中,Saddle Bag 更是超然的存在。

A guest wears a Dior Saddle bag, during London Fashion Week September 2018 on September 14, 2018 in London, England. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: A guest wears a colored sequined shiny skirt with printed geometric patterns, a black Dior Saddle bag, outside Paco Rabanne, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Spring Summer 2020, on September 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
BERLIN, GERMANY - OCTOBER 11: Sonia Lyson wearing leo print coat Munthe, Dior saddle bag in creme, Ganni cowboy boots, sunglasses on October 11, 2018 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 22: A Dior Saddle bag is seen, outside Alexandre Vauthier, during Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020, on January 22, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 26: Gitta Banko is seen wearing a white blouse with puffy sleeves and flounces by Balossa, bleach slime wide legs jeans from Topshop, khaki canvas Saddle Bag by Dior during Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 07: A guest is seen on the street during New York Fashion Week AW19 wearing pink/white Dior saddle bag on February 07, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 27: A guest wears a red dress, a Dior multicolor Saddle bag, outside Alessandra Rich, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Spring Summer 2020, on September 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - DECEMBER 20: Carrole Sagba wears a neon colored pink and orange floral print Dior Saddle bag, on December 20, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
A guest wears a Dior Saddle bag, during London Fashion Week September 2018 on September 14, 2018 in London, England. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: A guest wears a colored sequined shiny skirt with printed geometric patterns, a black Dior Saddle bag, outside Paco Rabanne, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Spring Summer 2020, on September 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
BERLIN, GERMANY - OCTOBER 11: Sonia Lyson wearing leo print coat Munthe, Dior saddle bag in creme, Ganni cowboy boots, sunglasses on October 11, 2018 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 22: A Dior Saddle bag is seen, outside Alexandre Vauthier, during Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020, on January 22, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 26: Gitta Banko is seen wearing a white blouse with puffy sleeves and flounces by Balossa, bleach slime wide legs jeans from Topshop, khaki canvas Saddle Bag by Dior during Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 07: A guest is seen on the street during New York Fashion Week AW19 wearing pink/white Dior saddle bag on February 07, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 27: A guest wears a red dress, a Dior multicolor Saddle bag, outside Alessandra Rich, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Spring Summer 2020, on September 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - DECEMBER 20: Carrole Sagba wears a neon colored pink and orange floral print Dior Saddle bag, on December 20, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
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選擇在千禧熱吹得正盛時重啟 Saddle Bag 美學,Maria Grazia Chiuri 這一步走得漂亮;但更重要的,是她真正明白大眾對 Saddle Bag 的情感依戀。在重新推出手袋時,她曾對英國版《VOGUE》表示:「這是一個充滿情感的設計,它成為一種個性的象徵,能夠瞬間傳達佩戴者的個性。」

在重塑的過程中,工藝成為了重點。金屬 D Logo 換上亮麗立體的效果,經典圖案 Diorissimo 被重新設計成為現在的 Dior Oblique 緹花帆布,保留 retro 風格同時更富當代感。而 Maria 為設計重新注入的最大特點,當然是可另外加配的長肩帶設計。長肩帶不但增加手袋時尚感和用途,而 Saddle Bag 能隨意配搭肩帶的做法,更能讓大家創造出屬於自己的獨特風格。最新2021春夏的眾多新款中,藍色漸變皮革更見精細工藝,同時不減日常配襯度。沒有過半世紀歷史做靠山,Saddle Bag 的經典氣質,來自於在永恆與前衛之間自如遊走的本領。

SADDLE BAG Indigo Blue Gradient Calfskin
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 28: A guest wears a Dior nude-color Saddle bag, outside Balmain, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021, on February 28, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: A guest wears a Christian Dior monogram printed Saddle bag, a brown fur coat, outside Dior, during Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020, on January 20, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images )
BERLIN, GERMANY - SEPTEMBER 03: Sonia Lyson is seen wearing red jogging pants Adidas, black turtleneck Edited, green wool coat Topshop, denim saddle bag and strap Dior on September 03, 2019 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 28: A guest wears a white Dior Saddle bag, outside Loewe, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021, on February 28, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 21: A guest wears a green Dior Saddle bag, a pleated dress, outside Dior, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2020, on June 21, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
DUSSELDORF, GERMANY - JULY 15: Alexandra Lapp is seen wearing red checkered suit ZARA, shoes Bottega Veneta pumps BV Madame in white, Saddle bag from Dior on July 15, 2020 in Dusseldorf, Germany. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
BERLIN, GERMANY - JANUARY 13: Mandy Bork wearing Max Mara coat, Dior saddle bag, Zara jeans, All Saints sweater and Givenchy boots during the Berlin Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2020 on January 13, 2020 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 24: A guest is seen wearing Dior bag outside Dior show during Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring Summer 2020 on September 24, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 21: A Dior Saddle multicolor bag with embroidery, outside Dior, during Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020, on January 21, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
SADDLE BAG Indigo Blue Gradient Calfskin
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 28: A guest wears a Dior nude-color Saddle bag, outside Balmain, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021, on February 28, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: A guest wears a Christian Dior monogram printed Saddle bag, a brown fur coat, outside Dior, during Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020, on January 20, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images )
BERLIN, GERMANY - SEPTEMBER 03: Sonia Lyson is seen wearing red jogging pants Adidas, black turtleneck Edited, green wool coat Topshop, denim saddle bag and strap Dior on September 03, 2019 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 28: A guest wears a white Dior Saddle bag, outside Loewe, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021, on February 28, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 21: A guest wears a green Dior Saddle bag, a pleated dress, outside Dior, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2020, on June 21, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
DUSSELDORF, GERMANY - JULY 15: Alexandra Lapp is seen wearing red checkered suit ZARA, shoes Bottega Veneta pumps BV Madame in white, Saddle bag from Dior on July 15, 2020 in Dusseldorf, Germany. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
BERLIN, GERMANY - JANUARY 13: Mandy Bork wearing Max Mara coat, Dior saddle bag, Zara jeans, All Saints sweater and Givenchy boots during the Berlin Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2020 on January 13, 2020 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 24: A guest is seen wearing Dior bag outside Dior show during Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring Summer 2020 on September 24, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 21: A Dior Saddle multicolor bag with embroidery, outside Dior, during Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020, on January 21, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
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