If your current five-year plan doesn’t involve wearing oversized sunglasses on a vintage wooden speedboat while sipping something bittersweet, it’s time to rewrite it. Lake Como has spent centuries perfecting the art of dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing absolutely nothing), serving as the ultimate playground for Roman emperors, Hollywood royalty, and anyone who appreciates dramatic Alpine backdrops paired with world-class hospitality.
This guide to Lake Como bypasses the crowds to fast-track you straight to the lake’s most spectacular modern revivals, legendary family-run palazzos, and hidden masterpieces. Pack your linen, leave your itinerary anxiety behind, and prepare for a whirlwind weekend of pure, unadulterated Italian glamour.
What To Do
Browse art at CASABIANCA
CASABIANCA is a spectacular 1930s white-marble villa perched directly on Como’s quayside, recently unveiled by the visionary De Santis family. Originally built by architect Piero Ponci for a prominent Italian textile dynasty, the undulating three-story mansion has been meticulously transformed from a former corporate headquarters into an intimate “home-museum”. Rather than mimicking a sterile, white-walled gallery, the space resembles an open, living room layout. There are no rigid exhibition routes, viewing barriers, or informative placards. Visitors are encouraged to lounge freely on mid-century furniture by Paolo Buffa, walk across original parquet floors, and view masterworks casually arranged next to windows opening directly onto the water.
The house showcases over four decades of private art collecting by the family. Spread across 15 elegantly restored rooms are roughly 50 highly significant post-war and contemporary pieces. The collection places a heavy emphasis on Italy’s radical Arte Povera movement, showcasing works by Michelangelo Pistoletto, Giulio Paolini, and Emilio Vedova alongside global icons like Marina Abramović, Joseph Kosuth, and Anselm Kiefer.
Ride the Brunate Funicular
Photo: Carlo Borlenghi/REDA/Universal Images Group via Getty Images
Hike to Castello di Vezio
Perched precariously on a rocky promontory overlooking the colourful village of Varenna, Castello di Vezio is an ancient medieval outpost with over a thousand years of history. Visitors can climb a steep, stone-paved olive grove trail to reach the fortress, where ghostly white plaster sculptures eerily stand watch over the ramparts. The castle grounds host a renowned birds of prey centre, offering travellers daily falconry demonstrations against the dramatic backdrop of the water. Scaling the central stone tower rewards climbers with a legendary, unobstructed 180-degree panorama of the exact intersection where the three branches of Lake Como meet.
Where To Eat
La Tavernetta
Perched high in the peaceful hills overlooking the lake in San Bartolomeo, this exceptional family-owned trattoria delivers an unpretentious, deeply authentic dining experience. The menu is an honest celebration of hearty Lombardian comfort food and line-caught, day-fresh lake fish recommended directly by the chef. Guests can start with a massive, shared tagliere stacked with premium local cured meats and sharp alpine cheeses, accompanied by warm, house-made focaccia bread. The absolute highlight for many is their classic perch fish risotto (risotto con filetto di pesce persico). This iconic local dish is prepared here to absolute perfection—the risotto is incredibly creamy and rich, topped with delicate, golden-fried lake perch fillets that are light and bursting with flavour.
Crotto del Sergente
Hidden in a lush, forested pocket just a short distance from the centre of Como town, this hidden gem is housed inside a meticulously restored stone structure dating back to 1720. Instead of relying on standard tourist fare, the menu showcases authentic local mountain and lake cuisine enhanced by modern culinary techniques. Signature dishes include rich polenta uncia—a decadent, slow-stirred cornmeal loaded with local alpine cheeses, garlic, and melted mountain butter—alongside delicate, handmade tortelli stuffed with freshwater lake fish.
La Terrazza Gualtiero Marchesi
Perched elegantly on the panoramic lakefront veranda of the legendary Grand Hotel Tremezzo, this fine-dining sanctuary stands as the only restaurant in the world authorised to serve the full, unchanged culinary catalogue of the late Maestro Gualtiero Marchesi—the revolutionary founding father of modern Italian alta cucina. Under the expert stewardship of Executive Chef Osvaldo Presazzi, who worked shoulder-to-shoulder with Marchesi for years, the kitchen functions as a living culinary museum. The absolute pinnacle of the menu remains the iconic Riso, Oro e Zafferano, a flawless saffron risotto crowned with a delicate square of real, edible 23-karat gold leaf, served alongside avant-garde, art-inspired masterworks like his Jackson Pollock-themed Dripping di pesce.
Trattoria del Porto
Tucked away in the quiet, ancient lakeside hamlet of Careno near Nesso, this historic, family-run trattoria is a beloved institution for authentic regional dining. To reach this informal yet deeply charming hideaway, guests either arrive directly by boat at the nearby pier or descend a winding flight of ancient stone steps cutting down from the main provincial road.
Al Prato Restaurant
Situated away from the crowded waterfront of the romantic village of Varenna, this highly rated restaurant sits on a quiet, picture-perfect stone piazza. The atmosphere balances contemporary refinement with absolute comfort, featuring an elegant, minimalist interior and a beautiful cluster of outdoor tables perfect for people-watching. It has earned an incredible reputation among culinary travellers for presenting no-nonsense, high-quality Italian food with visually striking plating. The culinary focus leans heavily on fresh, seasonal ingredients prepared to highlight the clean, vibrant flavours of the region. Diners can dive into exceptionally executed comforting classics, such as a rich eggplant parmesan, silky ink pasta loaded with fresh Mediterranean seafood, or a hearty, slow-cooked meat ragù. Their mixed grilled fish platter—sourcing the freshest daily catches from local waters and serving them alongside perfectly roasted gratin potatoes—remains a standout favourite.
Where To Stay
Grand Hotel Tremezzo
Celebrate the peak of old-world Italian vacationing at this iconic Belle Époque palace, which anchors the central western shore of the lake. Opened in 1910, the vibrant masterpiece blends grand Art Nouveau architecture with a highly glamorous social scene. Its definitive highlight remains “Water-on-Water”—the world-famous orange-and-white striped swimming pool that floats directly on the surface of the lake. The estate features 84 opulent guest rooms and suites, a private sandy beach club, five acres of cascading botanical gardens, and a sprawling luxury wellness spa.
Passalacqua
Unwind at this intensely private, globally awarded 18th-century sanctuary perched high above the quiet village of Moltrasio. Voted the world’s best boutique hotel, the ultra-exclusive residential retreat features just 24 highly individual, bespoke suites distributed across three distinct historic buildings: the main neoclassical Villa, the cozy Palazz, and the waterfront Casa al Lago. The estate treats arrivals to original Baroque frescoes, Murano glass chandeliers, a subterranean tunnel spa, an open kitchen, and seven hidden hectares of beautifully manicured terraced gardens.
CASABIANCA Suites
Take up rare overnight residence directly inside a museum-grade contemporary art collection newly opened by the De Santis family on Como town’s quayside. Originally designed in 1930 by architect Piero Ponci for a prominent textile dynasty, the striking white-marble villa has been meticulously transformed into an intimate “living room” art house. The lower levels showcase 50 post-war and contemporary masterpieces with a heavy focus on the radical Arte Povera movement, while the exclusive top floor acts as a stealth hotel housing just three apartment-style suites—The Memory, The Collage, and The Motif. Each private room seamlessly pairs mid-century Italian design with custom Verde Alpi marble bathrooms, authentic Gio Ponti door hardware, and private pocket terraces framing views of the water.
Editor
Kaitlyn LaiCredit
Lead Image: @ghtlakecomo via Instagram
