簡約、自律、奢華。以芭蕾藝術男性為靈感切入,Kim Jones今季首次推出高訂時裝,向大眾呈現實用與奢華融合的精緻美學。服裝參考過往系列,適當保留開衩、褶襇及領口,大量用上對稱、合身剪裁,偏灰紅的大地色系讓整體更和諧溫柔,少量加上亮彩色,以及芭蕾舞鞋元素,再度呼應主題。

 

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或更確切地說,這些系列焦聚於對比︰Dior品牌中成衣與高訂時裝的對比;舞台上與幕後的分別;Nureyev在戲劇與現實的人生。這位舞蹈家的風尚與Dior經典設計的風格在此貫通融合。

Kim Jones

以色彩產生鮮明對比

偏灰的米色、杏色和紅棕色不只出現在西裝外套和上衣,更能在各針織單品感受到其柔和美態。雖然穿搭多為大地色,卻在細節處加入對比色,例如天藍色和螢光粉紅色襪子,還有黃色、鮮綠色和粉紫色小單品和內搭,與灰調服裝形成對比,讓人眼前一亮,在一眾柔和中加入活潑亮麗的色彩。

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優雅的皮質單品

皮褸常給人型格幹練的形象,而Kim Jones筆下的皮質單品則散發著柔和溫婉的氣息。省去鈕釘、金屬圈等冷酷元素,也沒有多餘的裝飾車線,只剩合身剪裁的輪廓形成順暢的線條,簡約淡然。

 

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以著名芭蕾舞者Nureyev收藏的和服為設計藍本

欣賞新系列時,不禁被既閃亮又華麗的和服所吸引。銀色Uchikake和服以享負盛名的Hikihaku縫製,除了白銀色,也少量加入金黃、淡紫和銅色,讓整體華麗昇華。此外,設計中也加入其他銀色閃面單品,例如透薄的無袖上衣和漸變背心。

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芭蕾舞鞋俏皮又可愛

既然以芭蕾藝術為主題,怎能不提各款吸睛的芭蕾舞鞋?不論是短褲、長版西裝褲還是棉褲,都能襯上一對優雅的「芭蕾舞鞋」。飾有緞面絲帶,部分設計印有Dior signature格仔車線以及Oblique壓紋,相當精緻。

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