Pre-Fall 早秋系列,顧名思義,是一個介於春夏與秋冬之間的季節性系列。每年的這個時候,當北半球的白晝最長時,這些新季服飾便會陸續登場。2025 早秋系列的設計需要滿足多種需求——既要輕便舒適,又需應對不同場合。因此,設計師們為我們帶來了輕盈飄逸的圍巾式連身裙、各種長度的短褲,以及適合暖和氣候的薄呢料單品。回歸潮流舞台且顯得更加精緻的,還有纖細的鉛筆裙,搭配一系列非傳統風格的露腰短款開襟外套。此外,帶有佛朗明哥風格的荷葉邊裙和側邊垂飾的連身裙也成為時尚焦點。

為衣櫥增添奢華感的是金光閃耀的設計(這一潮流最近在紅地毯上也大放異彩),以及鑲嵌水晶的閃亮單品。春季時裝秀上那股充滿玩趣的氣息同樣延續到早秋系列,體現在動物圖案的印花,以及更進一步,呈現為立體造型的動物形狀配飾上。在手袋方面,18 世紀的抽繩袋(reticule)被重新設計為 21 世紀風格的束口袋,許多款式還加入了刺繡細節。此外,柔軟無結構的設計也成為焦點,例如充滿狂歡派對風格的單品再度回歸主流。

本季的核心之一是戲劇化的廓形設計,或許也為未來的潮流提供了預告。柔軟的蓬鬆輪廓與角度分明的梯形線條設計,成為眾人矚目的焦點。有趣的是,許多單品的面料讓人難以分辨究竟是尼龍還是塔夫綢,功能性與設計感之間的界線變得模糊,而這正是值得關注的有趣趨勢之一。

A Strong Line鮮明輪廓

Instagram 偏愛特寫鏡頭(畢竟人們需要清晰地看到那些品牌標識),但在 2025 早秋系列中,設計師們採取了更宏觀的視角,將焦點放在戲劇化的輪廓上。不論是誇張造型(MM6 Maison Margiela)、蓬鬆設計(Rachel Comey)還是 A 字剪裁(Victoria Beckham),都展現了不同的戲劇感。支撐這些輪廓的面料包括厚實的羊毛與硬挺的塔夫綢。

Rory William Docherty, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Rory William Docherty
Victoria Beckham, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Victoria Beckham
Filippa K, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Filippa K
Cecilie Bahnsen, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Cecilie Bahnsen
MM6 Maison Margiela, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of MM6 Maison Margiela
Romance Was Born, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Romance Was Born
Rory William Docherty, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Rory William Docherty
Victoria Beckham, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Victoria Beckham
Filippa K, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Filippa K
Cecilie Bahnsen, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Cecilie Bahnsen
MM6 Maison Margiela, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of MM6 Maison Margiela
Romance Was Born, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Romance Was Born
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Side Hustle側邊設計

2025 早秋系列中,有相當多的服飾以「偏左」或「偏右」的方式呈現。這種設計透過側開衩來實現,其中一些開衩裝飾着佛朗明哥式的荷葉邊(Adam Lippes)、扭曲設計(Monse),以及斜裁設計(Courrèges),為服裝增添動感與層次感。

Saint Laurent, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
Coperni, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Stuart Winecoff / Courtesy of Coperni
Alexander Wang, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Alexander Wang
Courrèges, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Courrèges
Victoria Beckham, pre-fall 2025
LaPointe, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Kourosh Sotoodeh / Courtesy of LaPointe
The Row, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of The Row
Natasha Zinko, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Natasha Zinko
Saint Laurent, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
Filippa K, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Filippa K
Adam Lippes, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Adam Lippes
Rachel Comey, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Rachel Comey
Rory William Docherty, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Rory William Docherty
Sportmax, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Sportmax
Saint Laurent, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
Coperni, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Stuart Winecoff / Courtesy of Coperni
Alexander Wang, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Alexander Wang
Courrèges, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Courrèges
Victoria Beckham, pre-fall 2025
LaPointe, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Kourosh Sotoodeh / Courtesy of LaPointe
The Row, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of The Row
Natasha Zinko, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Natasha Zinko
Saint Laurent, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
Filippa K, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Filippa K
Adam Lippes, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Adam Lippes
Rachel Comey, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Rachel Comey
Rory William Docherty, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Rory William Docherty
Sportmax, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Sportmax
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The Reticule Returns抽繩袋回歸

本季最具魅力的配件之一是抽繩袋——這款源自 18 世紀的復古包型在 Valentino 與 Etro 的演繹下,加上精緻裝飾與流蘇點綴,巧妙地平衡了維多利亞風情與波希米亞風格。

Valentino, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
Etro, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Etro
Valentino, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
Etro, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Etro
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Rave On狂歡派對風格

由 Balenciaga 和 The Row 領銜,狂歡派對風格被重新詮釋於早秋系列中。他們的版本更偏向印象派風格而非字面上的模仿,展現通過柔軟、層次分明且寬鬆的單品自由組合而成的即興造型。而 Moschino 則用標誌性的笑臉圖案為這一風格增添了一抹趣味性。

Balenciaga, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Natasha Zinko, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Natasha Zinko
Undercover, pre-fall 2025 menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Undercover
Christian Dior, pre-fall 2025
Photographed by Momo Angela
Balenciaga, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Natasha Zinko, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Natasha Zinko
Undercover, pre-fall 2025 menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Undercover
Christian Dior, pre-fall 2025
Photographed by Momo Angela
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Sharpen Your Pencils鉛筆裙回歸

鉛筆裙在 2024 度假系列中頗為流行,而到了 2025 早秋系列更是重點單品。設計師們通過搭配塞入腰間的上衣或露腰短款上衣,進一步強調鉛筆裙修長而纖細的線條。

Stella McCartney, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Stella McCartney
Saint Laurent, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
Emilia Wickstead, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead
Hervé Léger, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Hervé Léger
Markarian, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Markarian
Dsquared2, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Dsquared2
Stella McCartney, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Stella McCartney
Saint Laurent, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
Emilia Wickstead, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead
Hervé Léger, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Hervé Léger
Markarian, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Markarian
Dsquared2, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Dsquared2
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Foulards Rush In絲巾元素來襲

柔軟的絲質絲巾經過重新設計,在2025 早秋系列中以輕如羽毛的夏季連身裙形式呈現。有些設計更進一步,加入了手帕式裙擺的細節,增添俏皮感。

Gucci, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci
Ralph Lauren, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Monse, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Soraya Zaman / Courtesy of Monse
Gucci, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci
Ralph Lauren, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Monse, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Soraya Zaman / Courtesy of Monse
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The Gilded Age鍍金時代來臨

無論是紅地毯還是早秋系列,金屬色的盛行絕非偶然——金色總是自帶吸引力。如果你還未準備好迎接全金屬的閃亮造型,那麼金蔴針織(lamé knits)和金屬絲提花面料(metallic-shot jacquards)則是低調融入這股潮流的好選擇。

Ralph Lauren, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Christian Dior, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Christian Dior
Emilia Wickstead, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead
Jenny Packham, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Jenny Packham
Chanel, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Ralph Lauren, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Christian Dior, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Christian Dior
Emilia Wickstead, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead
Jenny Packham, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Jenny Packham
Chanel, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
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Summer Tweed夏季薄呢

2025 春季的格紋熱潮在 Pre-Fall 延續下來。Ganni 的 Ditte Reffstrup 甚至將這股風潮命名為「夏日斜紋軟呢」,打破布料與季節的既定印象。

Chanel, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Ganni, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Thomas Cristiani / Courtesy of Ganni
Ralph Lauren, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Officine Générale, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Officine Générale
Ermanno Scervino, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Ermanno Scervino
Sacai, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Undercover, pre-fall 2025
ratini / Gorunway.com Sacai, pre-fall 2025 Image may contain Clothing Coat Person Fashion Formal Wear Suit Adult Dress Overcoat and Glove Photo: Courtesy of Undercover
Veronica Beard, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Veronica Beard
Chanel, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Ganni, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Thomas Cristiani / Courtesy of Ganni
Ralph Lauren, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Officine Générale, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Officine Générale
Ermanno Scervino, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Ermanno Scervino
Sacai, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Undercover, pre-fall 2025
ratini / Gorunway.com Sacai, pre-fall 2025 Image may contain Clothing Coat Person Fashion Formal Wear Suit Adult Dress Overcoat and Glove Photo: Courtesy of Undercover
Veronica Beard, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Veronica Beard
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The Long and Shorts of It長短之間

短褲在 2025 早秋系列中占據重要地位,即使對於款式沒有明確共識。你可以選擇過膝長度或剪裁短款,運動風或精緻風,以及介於兩者之間的多種選項,任君挑選。

Christopher Esber, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Christopher Esber
Alexander Wang, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Alexander Wang
Teurn Studios, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Teurn Studios
Eudon Choi, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Eudon Choi
Baum und Pferdgarten, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Baum und Pferdgarten
Thom Browne, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Thom Browne
Christopher Esber, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Christopher Esber
Alexander Wang, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Alexander Wang
Teurn Studios, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Teurn Studios
Eudon Choi, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Eudon Choi
Baum und Pferdgarten, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Baum und Pferdgarten
Thom Browne, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Thom Browne
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The Just-to-the-Waist jacket剛好及腰的短外套

無可否認,當代美國文化中帶有一絲保守氣息;就連 TikTok 上也掀起了「傳統主婦」(trad wives)的風潮。2025 早秋系列中的收腰針織短外套便體現了這種「扣到最上鈕」的元素。不過,這種短版比例為經典款式注入了新鮮感,也寄望帶來更具啟發性的視角。

Brandon Maxwell, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Giovanni Corabi / Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell
By Malene Birger, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of By Malene Birger
Brandon Maxwell, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Giovanni Corabi / Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell
By Malene Birger, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of By Malene Birger
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Crystal Visions水晶幻境

水晶裝飾為早秋系列增添了奢華感,而整體設計則相對低調。Balmain 的 Olivier Rousteing 創作了一條以吊燈水晶滴飾構成的音樂主題禮服,而 Erdem Moralioglu 等設計師則偏愛水晶切割效果的鑽飾,讓單品閃耀迷人光芒。

Balmain, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Balmain
Stella McCartney, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Stella McCartney
Jenny Packham, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Jenny Packham
Louis Vuitton, pre-fall 2025 menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Huishan Zhang, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Huishan Zhang
Carolina Herrera, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Carolina Herrera
Victoria Beckham, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Victoria Beckham
Zuhair Murad, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Zuhair Murad
LaPointe, pre-fall 2025
Albus Lumen, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Albus Lumen
Balmain, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Balmain
Stella McCartney, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Stella McCartney
Jenny Packham, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Jenny Packham
Louis Vuitton, pre-fall 2025 menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Huishan Zhang, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Huishan Zhang
Carolina Herrera, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Carolina Herrera
Victoria Beckham, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Victoria Beckham
Zuhair Murad, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Zuhair Murad
LaPointe, pre-fall 2025
Albus Lumen, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Albus Lumen
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Somewhere in the Middle 介於中間

Christian Dior 的「New Look」對戰後時尚的影響從未完全消退。事實上,這種風格在早秋系列中依然活躍,核心在於收緊的腰部線條。如果沒有用腰帶強調,則透過雕塑般的剪裁塑造出沙漏型輪廓,完美展現經典魅力。

Christian Dior, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Christian Dior
Erdem, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Ruby Pluhar / Courtesy of Erdem
Max Mara, pre-fall 2025
Courtesy of Max Mara
Elie Saab, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Elie Saab
Sacai, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Christian Dior, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Christian Dior
Erdem, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Ruby Pluhar / Courtesy of Erdem
Max Mara, pre-fall 2025
Courtesy of Max Mara
Elie Saab, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Elie Saab
Sacai, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
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Zootopia 動物狂想曲

動物印花不僅限於經典的大型貓科動物(如豹紋和獵豹紋)。本季的新奇設計為我們帶來了更多驚喜,例如 Valentino 的哈巴狗圖案和 Diesel 的小雞印花。動物造型的手袋和吊飾更是將這股潮流從 2D 延伸到 3D,充滿趣味性與創造力。

Valentino, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
Diesel, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Diesel
Staud, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Staud
Louis Vuitton, pre-fall 2025 menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Valentino, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino
Diesel, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Diesel
Staud, pre-fall 2025
Photo: Courtesy of Staud
Louis Vuitton, pre-fall 2025 menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
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原文轉載自《VOGUE RUNWAY》