要了解 Jackie 1961 手袋之前,先必須釐清兩個謬誤:一是這款手袋真正誕生的年份不是1961年,其實早在1958年,品牌已經推出原型 G1097 肩袋,後來延伸成具有圓筒形開合和較寬大皮革底部的 G1244 款式,那年正是1961年,同時由於美國「永遠的第一夫人」經常戴上它在鏡頭前示人,因此被媒體戲稱為 “The Jackie Bag”。第二點,這個手袋正式命名為 “Jackie Bag” ,其實是來自前任創意總監 Tom Ford 的。Jacqueline Kennedy 於1994年辭世,他為了紀念這位優雅高貴的時尚icon而將手袋命名,最早的版本則以 Jacqueline Kennedy 娘家姓氏 Bouvier 為名,兩者並非從60年代就以此作為官方名稱;偏偏有了致敬意味的光環,卻讓這個手袋再一次活過來。

(Original Caption) LONDON: Jacqueline Onassis, wearing white slacks, a raincoat, and a dark sweater, leaves Claridge's here, September 2nd. Mrs. Onassis and her husband came to England on September 1st and are reported to be heading for Belfast on September 5th. There, the two will visit a shipyard where two supertankers are being built for Onassis' tanker fleet.
Jackie Kennedy Onassis during Jackie Kennedy and Family Shopping in Capri - August 24, 1970 in Capri, Italy. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Jackie Onassis during Jackie Kennedy Onassis Sighting in Peapack, New Jersey - May 6, 1969 at Peapack Drugstore in Peapack, New Jersey, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Jackie Kennedy Onassis during Jackie Kennedy Onassis Leaving Bonwit Teller's - October 15, 1970 at Bonwit Tellers in New York City, New York, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
(Original Caption) LONDON: Jacqueline Onassis, wearing white slacks, a raincoat, and a dark sweater, leaves Claridge's here, September 2nd. Mrs. Onassis and her husband came to England on September 1st and are reported to be heading for Belfast on September 5th. There, the two will visit a shipyard where two supertankers are being built for Onassis' tanker fleet.
Jackie Kennedy Onassis during Jackie Kennedy and Family Shopping in Capri - August 24, 1970 in Capri, Italy. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Jackie Onassis during Jackie Kennedy Onassis Sighting in Peapack, New Jersey - May 6, 1969 at Peapack Drugstore in Peapack, New Jersey, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Jackie Kennedy Onassis during Jackie Kennedy Onassis Leaving Bonwit Teller's - October 15, 1970 at Bonwit Tellers in New York City, New York, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
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Jacqueline Kennedy 之所以鍾情 Jackie 手袋,無非是它的設計盡顯簡約美學,靈感取自傳統馬術運動中的馬鼻罩,不過從布料和織帶卻能夠締造多變的效果;在狗仔隊文化未氾濫的年代,被稱為「狗仔教父」的攝影師 Ron Galella 多次捕捉到  Jacqueline Kennedy 揹上有經典的全啡色皮革設和米色帆布款式的 Jackie 手袋;她在當時丈夫 John F. Kennedy 與前蘇聯總理 Nikita Khrushchev 歷史會面期間, 也以這款手袋示人,Jackie 手袋一炮而紅顯然是不無道理,亦不禁令人想到,這種名人效應確實能夠令一個品牌風生水起,也難怪為何各大品牌每年每季都要推出形形色色的 It bags,全因它隨時是下一個永恆經典,成為女生們衣櫥裏必備的單品。

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活在任何一個時代,時尚不斷在演變,再經典的手袋亦要與時並進。以 Jackie 手袋為例,面對70年代的普普藝術和 disco 文化影響,曾出現海豚圖騰 monogram 印花的有趣設計。直至 Tom Ford 在位期間,於1999年嘗試將手袋添上更為鮮艷色彩,又採用管狀彈簧鎖釦,透過絲絨及尼龍材質盡顯其最擅長的女性誘惑。後來 Frida Giannini 將它化成知性優雅的 The Jackie Soft 皮革手袋,延長和拉闊整體設計,找來超模 Kate Moss 拍攝微電影,如此精密計算,在市場上的需求大大增加起來。

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有意義的是,Alessandro Michele 所復刻的 Jackie 1961 是出現在2020年春夏男裝展,這意味他對中性時尚的重視;畢竟這位不折不扣的哲學家在多元文化的時尚道路上,一直扮演前線角色,以男女模糊設計的喱士、透視、蝴蝶結等元素主張性別自由,一直在 Gen Z 與傳統忠實顧客之間意外地一致獲得好感,Jackie 1961 無疑是最易入手的中性單品,無論是 Harry Styles 還是一眾女模特兒都能把它配襯得淋漓盡致。在 Alessandro 打造之下,Jackie 1961 保留原有半圓 Hobo 效果和金屬管狀推嵌式鎖釦,而且分拆成中型、小型及迷你等不同尺寸,滿足不同人的需要。特別是今年年中才推出的新版本,與1961年版本外形幾乎一致,換上黑白色調更為簡潔有力,再次引證復古風是今季的一大趨勢;縱使我們回不到鬧哄哄的60年代,但起碼能夠透過設計感受其美好的懷舊時尚風情。

Jackie 1961 small shoulder bag, Gucci $20,000

Jackie 1961 small shoulder bag, Gucci $20,000