NEW YORK, NY - JUNE 08: Calvin Klein visits at SiriusXM Studio on June 8, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Rob Kim/Getty Images)

NEW YORK, NY - JUNE 08: Calvin Klein visits at SiriusXM Studio on June 8, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Rob Kim/Getty Images)

Calvin Klein 在1942年出生在布朗克斯地區,曾經在紐約著名的 Fashion Institude of Technology 就讀,但未曾完成學業便在1968年,以一萬塊美元大膽與兒時玩伴 Barry K. Schwartz 開創同名公司。當年品牌便以倡導青春和低調風格奠定品牌設計方向,沒想到僅僅一年的時間,Calvin Klein 的羊毛大衣設計便刊登在《VOGUE》美國版九月的封面上。這對 Calvin Klein 極大的鼓舞,相比起同期的時裝市場上的 Versace 印花還有日本的結構主義,Calvin Klein 的極簡主義略勝一籌,在競爭激烈的時尚圈子嶄露頭角。也因為他的設計以簡約線條著稱,曾被譽為 New Yves Saint Laurent。

UNITED STATES - SEPTEMBER 01: Model Susan Schoenberg in a pale grey wool coat by Calvin Klein, with wool muffler by Glentex, and rosy make-up palette by Faberge (Photo by Gianni Penati/Conde Nast via Getty Images)

UNITED STATES - SEPTEMBER 01: Model Susan Schoenberg in a pale grey wool coat by Calvin Klein, with wool muffler by Glentex, and rosy make-up palette by Faberge (Photo by Gianni Penati/Conde Nast via Getty Images)

雖說如此,Calvin Klein 卻擁有商業前瞻性,深明品牌系列在如何厲害都不及商業產品索所帶來的利潤較多,因此 Calvin Klein 不僅僅推出成衣系列,還開發了牛仔褲、運動服裝、西裝、內衣、鞋履設計還有香水、眼鏡等等。1974年,Calvin Klein 設計的緊身標誌性牛仔褲,銷售的第一周總收入便有20萬美元之多。就在1981年,Fortune 公佈 Calvin Klein 每年收入約850萬美元,可見當時的時尚市場完全被 Calvin Klein 的簡約設計所壟斷。

不過好景不常,在1992年幾乎頻臨破產的他,以具爭議性、話題性的廣告成功挽救品牌:邀請了美國演員 Mark Wahlberg 穿上由 John Varvatos 開發設計的男士四角內褲拍攝平面廣告,其攝影極為性感及挑釁的 pose 讓人印象深刻,成為品牌經典的歷史痕跡。隨後 Mark Wahlberg 所穿著的四角內褲讓 Calvin Klein 獲得「本世紀最偉大的服裝革命之一」,而 Calvin Klein 的極簡主義時裝在 1993年評為「美國最佳設計師」。

因此廣告對於 Calvin Klein 的意義不僅僅在於宣傳,更展示了品牌的前衛與大膽的精神,而事實證明 Calvin Klein 的廣告非常成功,更具起死回生的作用:1990年初期 Kate Moss 為品牌拍攝廣告後開啟了超模之路,之後因有毒品指控而讓她的模特生涯嚴重受創。卻在2002年再次被 Calvin Klein 所任用為廣告模特兒,重啓其風光明媚的職業機會。

Klein was the ultimate New York designer, but with its Audrey Hepburn LBDs and Jean Harlow gowns, this collection was pure Hollywood. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Klein was the ultimate New York designer, but with its Audrey Hepburn LBDs and Jean Harlow gowns, this collection was pure Hollywood. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

“It’s about a suit or a dress—and that’s all you need,” Klein said of his ladylike lineup for Fall 1995. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

“It’s about a suit or a dress—and that’s all you need,” Klein said of his ladylike lineup for Fall 1995. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

What happens when a boy from the Bronx indulges in some California dreaming? Simple shapes updated with subtle splashes of color. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

What happens when a boy from the Bronx indulges in some California dreaming? Simple shapes updated with subtle splashes of color. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Klein, no stranger to Studio 54, put a modern, artful spin on the ’70s for Fall 1996. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Klein, no stranger to Studio 54, put a modern, artful spin on the ’70s for Fall 1996. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

With dashes of burgundy and Yves Klein blue for Spring 1997, Klein proved that he was most definitely not chronically chromatically challenged. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

With dashes of burgundy and Yves Klein blue for Spring 1997, Klein proved that he was most definitely not chronically chromatically challenged. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Making use of tailoring and flow, Klein delivered minimalism with maximum impact for Fall 1997. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Making use of tailoring and flow, Klein delivered minimalism with maximum impact for Fall 1997. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Ethereal sportswear with what Vogue described as an “accidental ease” was the order of the day and night for Spring 1998. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Ethereal sportswear with what Vogue described as an “accidental ease” was the order of the day and night for Spring 1998. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Klein always had something right for evening—and not just slip dresses. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Klein always had something right for evening—and not just slip dresses. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Klein’s Spring 1999 collection was black, white, and bright colors all over. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Klein’s Spring 1999 collection was black, white, and bright colors all over. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Y2K or bust. Shown prior to the release of The Matrix, this polished collection pointed the way to a fashionable future. Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Y2K or bust. Shown prior to the release of The Matrix, this polished collection pointed the way to a fashionable future. Photo: Condé Nast Archive