Truman Capote once famously compared visiting Venice to “eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go”. For me, the Venetian feast always involves a heady combination of art, architecture, history, food and shopping; the splendour of La Serenissima often hides behind unremarkable doors that are dangerously close to sea level. Here are some favourite spots that I have discovered while meandering through the calli and campi between art exhibitions.
To Shop
Attilio Codognato
A Venetian landmark since 1866, the Codognato family’s boutique has been a treasure trove of some of the world’s most exquisite baroque jewellery, worn by the likes of Coco Chanel, Elizabeth Taylor and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. The ghoulish, painterly creations – mostly skulls and snakes inspired by Carpaccio and Caravaggio – are made even more popular since the shop was mentioned in Hemingway’s Across the River and Into the Trees.
Calle Vallaresso 1316
Venice M’ART
Curated by the team behind the Venice Venice Hotel (see below), Venice M’ART should be on the list of every fashion and culture lover, for its sharp edit of art objects, design pieces, and cultural curiosities, and the occasional art exhibitions and pop-up markets. I love the selection of clothes and products, ranging from limited-edition Golden Goose, Carl Hansen & Son’s CH20 chair, to a special edition of Moka coffee maker.
Cannaregio 5631
Sangueblu
Venice is known to be a place to settle down and retire, therefore lots of fashion treasures have ended up in vintage shops around the city. Sangueblu’s curation, ranging from haute couture to streetwear, have made their way onto names like Billie Eilish and Emma Chamberlain.
San Marco 4337
Piedàterre Venezia
I may have been known to wear Venetian furlane almost on a daily basis, my go-to for any and all occasions. These traditional velvet slippers were first crafted by stitching together scraps of sumptuous curtains from theatres and old tyres in 19th-century Friuli, and popularised by none other than the gondoliers in Venice soon after. Comfortable, chic and – crucially – non-slip, they are equally perfect for navigating Venice’s cobbled streets and the concrete pavements of Hong Kong. Founded in 1952 with a cartload of furlane slippers on the Rialto Bridge, Piedàterre is the original and oldest continuously operating maker.
San Polo 60 or Campo Santo Stefano 2806
Laguna~B
Laguna~B, who fuses centuries-old glassmaking knowledge with contemporary design, is known especially for glass tumblers in arresting colour combinations inspired by goti de fornasa (aka “drinking glasses of the furnace”). All the pieces are made in Murano, with the same technique that has been passed down from generation to generation. The sleek shop also houses a library of art, photography, and culture books curated by the design studio and publishing house Bruno.
Dorsoduro 3276
Fortuny Showroom
The showroom and factory of Fortuny fabrics celebrate the legacy of the visionary Spanish designer Mario Fortuny. A former convent transformed into a factory, it still houses the original machines. A visit to the stunning new showroom, private garden and villa is a delightful interlude. By appointment only.
Fondamenta San Biagio 805
Bevilacqua
Founded in 1875, Bevilacqua produces the finest silks and velvet in the world, still made with hand-looms dating back to the 18th century that belonged to the silk guild of the Republic of Venice. I am particularly partial to the Venetian tassels, and love to rotate a selection of rainbow-coloured ones on my suitcases and makeup pouches. A chic alternative to the standard luggage tags.
Fondamenta Narisi 2520
Martina Vidal Venezia
Before a long lunch at Venissa (see below), I always stop by this Burano lace atelier for the most exquisite lace linen for my bedroom and handkerchiefs for friends and family. Having been in operation for four generations, there is an impressive antique lace collection. Go upstairs to watch one of the few old ladies who are still making lace by hand today.
Via San Mauro 309, Burano
To Wine And Dine
Harry’s Bar
Long been a favourite among writers, artists, celebrities and aristocrats alike who have gathered in its intimate interior of warm lighting and polished wood since 1931, it is one of the world’s most celebrated restaurants. Harry’s Bar is best known as the birthplace of the Bellini and beef carpaccio, which are still staples on the menu. Another dish that I often order is the calf’s kidneys and saffron risotto.
Calle Vallaresso 1323
Antiche Carampane
A classic trattoria hidden in the backstreet near the Rialto fish market, the menu here is rooted in Venetian tradition and seasonality, changing daily depending on the fresh catch of the day and vegetables from Sant’Erasmo, the island that is also known as “Venice’s vegetable garden”. My favourite dishes include the raw fish carpaccio, and the cuttlefish in black sauce with soft polenta.
San Polo 1911
Bar Longhi / The Riva Lounge
With etched Venetian mirror walls and ornate furnishings, Bar Longhi in the legendary Gritti Palace features some of the best cocktails in Venice (order the eponymous Gritti Special). My favourite table, however, is any of the canal-side chrome table on the terrace. Now rebranded as The Riva Lounge, it has wooden decking mirrors and Aquarama seating inspired by the namesake’s yachts, where I go to for one of the best sunset views on the Grand Canal and the domed Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute.
Campo Santa Maria del Giglio 2467
Cantine del Vino già Schiavi
Beloved hangout for artsy academics, bohemian characters, locals and gondoliers, who all gather here for delicious varieties of cicchetti, which are little pieces of bread with various toppings. The wine is good and the vibe after sunset is fun.
Fondamenta Nani 992
Venissa
A Michelin-starred restaurant set between the walled Dorona di Venezia vineyard dating back to the Middle Ages, a 14th-century bell tower and a kitchen garden, Venissa can be found in this magical setting on the small island of Mazzorbo. The excellent menu features plenty of fish, vegetables, as well as herbs and flowers typical of the lagoon and organic wine pairing. Reachable by a wooden bridge from the neighbouring island of Burano, it makes for a perfect day out to learn about the lesser-known tradition of wine making in Venice, and is well worth the journey.
Fondamenta Santa Caterina 3, Mazzorbo
Locanda Cipriani
From the humble beginning of a small wine shop on Torcello, Giuseppe Cipriani (who also founded the famous Harry’s Bar and Hotel Cipriani) transformed it into what became Locanda Cipriani today, offering classic local dishes in a country inn-like setting far from the frenetic pace of Venice. For lunch, I usually stick to irresistible classics under the lush pergola: risotto alla torcellana with fresh, seasonal vegetables, a Cipriani signature.
Also worth visiting while you’re there is the 7th-century Basilica di Santa Maria Assunto for the earliest mosaics in Venice, and the quiet walking paths through protected wetlands. It is worth the excursion during the season (March to November).
Piazza Santa Fosca 29, Torcello
To Caffeinate
Pasticceria Rosa Salva
A historic bakery in Venice, Rosa Salva has been inventing and crafting Venetian pastries (always best with espresso) since 1870, and run by the sixth generation of the same family today. Its tiramisu is widely considered among the best in the city. Locals come early; the art crowd lingers longer. I always get my coffee with a side of zaleti (local biscuit made of ground cornmeal) or semolina pudding.
San Marco 950
Caffè Florian
One of the oldest coffeehouses in the world, Caffè Florian has been a destination for artists and intellectuals since 1720, from Byron, Monet to Warhol; it was also a one-time favourite meeting place for Coco Chanel and her friends. It remains one of the few places where you can relive the refined and dreamy atmosphere of old-world cafés; I love all six rooms of different decorations, the faded mirrors, the furniture, and the waiters in impeccable livery. A quintessential experience for everyone in Venice.
Piazza San Marco 57
Harry’s Dolci
Photo: Eddy Buttarelli/REDA/Universal Images Group via Getty Images
Spring to Autumn only, you’ll find Harry’s Dolci (the younger brother of Harry’s Bar) on Giudecca Island with the most beautiful view of the Giudecca Canal. Though it shares the menu of Harry’s Bar, with daily specials and traditional Venetian dishes, I come here for coffee and the delectable sorbets, or a slice of its signature meringue cakes during the season (April to October).
Fondamenta San Biagio 773, Giudecca
To Stay
Aman Venice
As romantic and sumptuous as Venice itself, staying at this 16th-century palazzo and surrounded by an incredible museum-quality collection of artworks and furnishings, in a palette of beige, greige, soft blue and gold, is a truly luxurious experience. You might find yourself sleeping under original Tiepolo frescoes, sipping sunset drinks on the altana rooftop terrace, or reading a book in one of Venice’s most beautiful libraries, surrounded by walls covered in precious 17th-century gilded Cordoba leather.
Palazzo Papadopoli, Calle Tiepolo 1364, Sestiere San Polo
Hotel Cipriani
Beloved for its 270-degree views of the Venetian Lagoon and Piazza San Marco, Hotel Cipriani exudes an air of dolce vita-style glamour. Newly reopened after a two-phase renovation led by Peter Marino, every room in the custom-built hotel comes in a generous portion (at least by Venetian standards) with its own water- or garden-facing balcony. The hotel also boasts the only Olympic-sized saltwater swimming pool in central Venice, and a magnificent English garden.
Giudecca 10, Giudecca
Venice Venice Hotel
The brainchild of Alessandro Gallo and Francesca Rinaldo of Golden Goose, I love the artful clashes between the classic and the contemporary. fusing raw materials with refined detailing, such as candlelit staircases, luxurious draperies, and tall Gothic windows, all to be found under the 13th-century roof. Don’t overlook the impressive contemporary art collection by artists including Gilberto Zorio and Jannis Kounellis.
Sestiere Cannaregio 5631
Hotel Flora
Run by the Romanelli family for over sixty years and three generations, Hotel Flora strikes the perfect balance between elegance and family-style hospitality. I love the comfortable rooms which exude a certain vintage charm, all housed in the 17th-century palazzo. Enjoy breakfast or a drink in the secret, lush green garden, a rarity in central Venice.
San Marco 2283/A
Editor
Patricia Li
