Lined by a row of spotlights and backed by a twinkling Eiffel Tower, Saint Laurent‘s Spring/Summer 2020 runway lit up Paris Fashion Week with a beaming show of attitude and the house’s iconic codes. This season, Anthony Vaccarello revisited two of Yves Saint Laurent’s most defining motifs — the Le Smoking suit and ’70s bohemia — with a contemporary flair.

For the Le Smoking redux, rigorously-tailored, strong-shouldered blazers of rockstar fantasy reappeared with Betty Catroux sunglasses and undone black silk bows. But in the place of wide satin cummerbunds and tailored pants were belted short-shorts, denim Bermuda cutoffs, and knee-high cowboy boots that channeled festival style by way of Parisian chic. This was followed by a series of boho-glam staples including peasant blouses, off-the-shoulder tops, hippie vests, and gold-lace prairie frocks of paisley, animal and floral print.

In similar routine to that of last season, a dramatic pause on the runway signalled a second act — a focused, amplified parade of tuxedo suits dripping in sequins, velvet, and satin, worn by a supermodel cast that closed with an epic Naomi Campbell finale.