For Fendi Resort 2020, the Italian label’s first season designed without the late Karl Lagerfeld, new creative lead Silvia Venturini Fendi charged forward with a sophisticated collection of power dressing inspired by the John Cassavetes-directed ‘80s classic Gloria — a crime thriller centred around a gangster’s girlfriend who helps a boy escape from the mafia.

References to Gloria were made in the bourgeois trench coats, sharp-shouldered blazers, pleated midi skirts and leg-baring high slits, painting a portrait of a woman who was both disciplined and sensual. Classic templates of tailoring were shifted with details like an asymmetric hem or the swirl of a silk scarf tied around the wrist, while a reversal of roles in the textiles — pajama-style silks worn as outerwear; leather and faux fur rendered as tucked-in shirts — added to the eclecticism.

Fendi’s signature codes had a strong presence throughout the collection, most notably in the piping details and the balance of neutrals with bold colours, as well as the double F logo tights and sharp collars that echoed last season’s homage to Lagerfeld.