Over the past few seasons, one designer has been consistently pushing boundaries and defying norms within Korea’s rising fashion scene. JUUN.J, known for his experimentally sculpted silhouettes and penchant for juxtaposing fabrics, has emerged as the industry’s resident rule-breaker.
Based in Seoul, JUUN.J eschews conventional notions of wearability and gender definitions. Delving into hyper-modern tailoring techniques and proportions beyond compare, his avant-garde creations stop observers in their tracks. For JUUN.J, fashion is an artistic medium to challenge preconceptions — and his Spring/Summer 2024 “SKIN” collection speaks louder than words.
Jung Wook-Jun, Creative Director at JUUN.J
Image courtesy of Lane Crawford
What is the inspiration/philosophy behind your Spring/Summer 2024 Collection, “SKIN”?
For my Spring/Summer 2024 collection, titled “SKIN”, I wanted to express our own “Beauty of Contrast.” By mixing body-hugging skinny silhouette pieces with twisted or exaggerated volume pieces, I aimed to maximize the contrast of silhouettes. I also broke boundaries between ready-to-wear and Haute Couture by using materials in unconventional ways. This collection is expressed through exaggerated contrasts such as skins and tailoring from the 70s, silhouettes from the 80s, and JEANS from the 90s. I designed it by mixing tops and bottoms in various materials and colours like leather, denim, wool, jersey, and spangles.
What is your favourite garment from your Spring/Summer 2024 collection and why?
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Among the pieces in my Spring/Summer 2024 collection, my favourite is the outfit styled with twisted, avant-garde jeans and an oversized wool jacket. A mix of classic items and denim always feels youthful and unique.
If you were to describe your design style in three words, what would they be and why?
“Diversion of Classic:: We set a classic item as the base for each collection and then deconstruct or recombine it into completely different garments. I would also add the word “contrast” into the mix. I like to show dramatic beauty through contrasts in silhouettes, materials, or individual garments.
What do you think distinguishes you, JUUN.J, from other designers in South Korea and beyond?
What distinguishes me is that I am not only a designer but also a stylist. I am deeply involved in the full design process from concept to final styling of the collection. This ensures each season’s identity and vision remain fully integrated and realized. JUUN.J stands out for our focus on evolving our brand identity thoughtfully with each collection.
What does being a “good designer” mean to you?
To me, a “good designer” is someone who inspires other designers.
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The Hallyu wave is taking the world by storm. What are your thoughts on Korean pop culture and its global influence on fashion? What does this mean for Korean designers like yourself?
The global success of Hallyu demonstrates how Korean pop culture has become a unique artistic medium that transcends borders. Particularly with K-pop appealing to youth worldwide through its positive energy and visual style beyond language barriers. This widespread interest in Korean entertainment and idols has greatly elevated the recognition of Korean art and fashion globally.
As Korean brands look to expand overseas, it’s an opportunity for the local fashion scene to grow internationally. But it’s important we maintain focus on each brand’s core identity and values rather than short-term business gains. If we lead with purpose over profits, I believe a thriving global Korean fashion industry can emerge.
Are there any brands or people you would like to collaborate with in the future?
The designer I most admire and respect is Helmut Lang. He pursued fine art after fashion, which I find inspiring. I hope to collaborate with him someday if the opportunity arises.
Editor
Kaitlyn LaiCredit
Interview and portrait courtesy of Lane Crawford
