So far, New York Fashion Week has been a rather stripped-back affair — the realities of nearly a year of varying degrees of lockdown — but it’s been no less joyful and optimistic. The collections have featured layering and oversized modern tailoring, exactly the kind of pieces you want to wear to feel good in, right now and beyond working from home. The beauty looks were also pared back and fresh with an emphasis on natural-looking, dewy skin, easy day-to-night eyeliner and effortless, Zoom-friendly hair — an uplifting celebration of the new normal.
Here are the hair, makeup and beauty trends you need to know from New York Fashion Week AW21.
The trend: down the middle
Jason Wu autumn/winter 2021, Balenciaga autumn/winter 2021, Atlein autumn/winter 2021
Where we’ve seen it:
Jason Wu, Proenza Schouler, Gabriela Hearst, Rosetta Getty, The Row, Atlein, Eytys, Sandy Liang, Balenciaga, Lemaire, Ulla Johnson, Jonathan Simkhai
What you need to know:
With salons shut around the world, people are having to make do at home. Right now, people want easy, practical hair while still being able to flex on Zoom, which is why the middle parting is having a moment. But it’s not Sienna Miller circa 2008, with all its tousled, bohemian allure. This season’s iteration is clean and precise, styled into low ponytails as seen at Ulla Johnson and Proenza Schouler, tucked behind the ears and off the shoulders as at Rosetta Getty, Balenciaga, and The Row, or worn super sleek and straight as at Atlein.
The trend: back to black eyeliner
Victoria Beckham autumn/winter 2021, Sandy Liang autumn/winter 2021
Where we’ve seen it:
Ulla Johnson, Alice + Olivia, Christian Cowan, Victoria Beckham, Balenciaga, Sandy Liang, Libertine
What you need to know:
With only our eyes on show at the moment, it makes sense to make the most of them. Where last season it was all about playful pops of colour, autumn/winter 2021 takes on a more sombre note with lashings of black liner. See Victoria Beckham and Ulla Johnson for lessons in everyday liner or Balenciaga, Sandy Liang and Libertine for that high-drama, rock’n’roll look.
The trend: fresh fringes
Vetements autumn/winter 2021, Atlein autumn/winter 2021, Anna Sui autumn/winter 2021
Where we’ve seen it:
Victoria Beckham, Proenza Schouler, Vetements, Batsheva, Anna Sui, Dsquared2
What you need to know:
One of the easiest ways to update your look is by getting yourself some bangs, which is why so many of us have been hacking away at our hair in lockdown, most noticeably Bella Hadid. For those waiting for the world (read: salons) to reopen, however, before investing in some fringe benefits, there was plenty of inspiration on show this season. There’s the moody, blunt bangs at Victoria Beckham and Vetements, the 1970s shag at Atlein, the micro-fringe at Batsheva and the French-chic look at Anna Sui. Those looking to really shake up their look should take their cues from Ella Emhoff’s corkscrew curls at Proenza Schouler.
The trend: dewy skin
Prabal Gurung autumn/winter 2021, Y/Project autumn/winter 2021, Ambush autumn/winter 2021
Where we’ve seen it:
Thakoon, 3.1. Philip Lim, Gabriela Hearst, Prabal Gurung, Veronica Beard, Azzedine Alaïa, Ambush, Ulla Johnson, Y/Project, Rosetta Getty, Badgley Mischka, Norma Kamali
What you need to know:
Health is wealth, especially in the middle of a global pandemic. So why not look the part as well? That was certainly the message at the autumn/winter shows, where the emphasis was on dewy, flawless skin. See Prabal Gurung, Gabriela Hearst, Y/Project and Ambush for a lesson in looking well.
The trend: the new bob
The Row autumn/winter 2021, Staud autumn/winter 2021
Where we’ve seen it:
Staud, Ulla Johnson, Gabriela Hearst, The Row, Batsheva, Victoria Beckham, Proenza Schouler
What you need to know:
Following on from last season, the bob is still very much on-trend. Switch up your look this autumn/winter with a chin grazing cut as seen at The Row, Gabriela Hearst, Batsheva and Ulla Johnson, channel that French-girl chic with a side parting spotted at Staud, or take it right up to the ears like at Proenza Schouler and Ulla Johnson.
The trend: a bold lip
Y/Project autumn/winter 2021, Vetements autumn/winter 2021, Prabal Gurung autumn/winter 2021
Where we’ve seen it:
Vetements, Y/Project, Prabal Gurung, Balenciaga
What you need to know:
Yes, we’re wearing masks, but that doesn’t mean we can’t relish the ritualistic act of applying lipstick and the empowering effects a bold lip can have. As such, there were accents of rouge noir at Y/Project, clownlike iterations at Balenciaga and classic reds at Vetements and Prabal Gurung. If you’re not yet ready for a colour comeback, take note of the glossy nude lips at Ulla Johnson and 3.1 Philip Lim.
The trend: statement hair accessories
Casablanca autumn/winter 2021, 1017 ALYX 9SM autumn/winter 2021, Dsquared2 autumn/winter 2021
Where we’ve seen it:
Sandy Liang, Anna Sui, Dsquared2, 1017 ALYX 9SM, Casablanca, Alice + Olivia
What you need to know:
With IRL events cancelled right now, extravagant hair accessories have become a bit of an afterthought. But you can still make a statement with something a little more low-key. Add an element of girlish nostalgia with extra-large headbands like Sandy Liang and Casablanca or amp it up with a touch of sparkle as seen at 1017 ALYX 9SM, Alice + Olivia and Dsquared2. Your Zoom-mates will appreciate the effort.
Editor
Tish Weinstock Lead image: Prabal Gurung AW21
