Draped in Volume
Spring/Summer 2021 saw trends of frivolous abundance taken to voluminous new heights. Excess fabric was manoeuvred into bubble-like silhouettes, forming protective layers around the wearer as a fitting social-distancing barrier. Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons took the lead in perfecting the amorphous shape, with sheaths of black fabric draped across figures in cape-like cocoons. Simone Rocha and Angel Chen followed suit in similar dark palettes, the latter sprucing up the silhouette with a spattering of tie-dye. Ashley Williams took a romantic, tiered spin on the trend, with multiple layers of red cinched with neat, pink bows, while Molly Goddard wrapped tulle around a more structured, babydoll silhouette.
Loungewear
Loungewear had a steady presence across the Spring/Summer 2021 runways, likely inspired by 2020’s quarantine uniform deriving from months in lockdown. Balenciaga and Zadig and Voltaire kept it classic with monochromatic, oversized sweatsuits, while Collina Strada incorporated pastel tie-dye. The comfort clothing of choice was elevated at Roksanda and Tom Ford, the former with colour-blocking, ribbed textures and Roksanda’s signature, billowing sleeves, and the latter by replacing typical muted Terry-cloth cotton with loud, neon silk.
Sheer Sensuality
Sheer layers reigned across the fashion weeks, from flirtatious whispers of skin behind translucent panels to gossamer-like fabrics that clung to the skin with ample, daring cut-outs. Mugler was arguably the most risqué, with barely-there straps of fabric holding dresses together—a design reminiscent of the vintage Mugler Kim Kardashian wore at the 2019 Hollywood Beauty Awards. A similarly daring Ottolinger dress saw signature exposed cut-outs and loose-hanging ties elevated further with a sheer, sage green fabric. Across skirts, Fendi amped up the glam with an FF glitter embossed skirt, while Acne Studios created an almost entirely transparent iteration, spare some green iridescence.
Bra Tops
Bra tops were a surprisingly versatile trend across the Spring/Summer 2021 runways. At Jason Wu and Drome, bras were seen layered over dresses and shirts to redefine the figure while simultaneously adding structural layering, while the likes of Tom Ford and Y/Project saw the scant garment peeking through floaty button-up blouses and tailored blazers. Jacquemus’ typical cottagecore elements were reimagined on a bra top through romantic ruching and dainty hanging ties, while Maison Margiela saw a more minimal, sleek iteration, paired with wide-leg sweatpants and pumps for a more relaxed look.
Artful Antics
A multitude of brands referenced art for their Spring/Summer 2021 collections, with some paying direct homage to or incorporating the works of renowned artists, and others simply employing their own creative touches with strokes of colour and intricate designs. Both Chloé and Christopher John Rogers referenced Corita Kent, an American pop-artist from the 60s who utilised Bible verses to explore issues of inequality and injustice in America. At the other end of the spectrum, Christopher Kane rediscovered his art student roots for his SS21 collection, using a combination of digital printing, screen printing and painting techniques.
Editor
Carina Fischer
