Last resort season, Burberry gave us 55 looks; this season, it was a huge 108. Despite this, Riccardo Tisci’s vision was more cohesive than ever, playing on his tailoring roots and a return to Burberry’s signature colour palette. Dubbed “Evolution,” the collection was a celebration of new house codes influenced by the time Burberry was first founded, the Victorian era.

The show took to the former BBC Media Village in West London — to the newly-opened Troubadour Theatre — where an antiqued rust floor centred around a Victorian-inspired (but very-futuristic-looking) sound system installation. The runway set reflected the collection’s colour palette — beige, tan, grey, white, black — as well as its juxtaposition of the past and future — Victorian-inspired lace ruffles and tasseled fringes that mixed with the hardy modernity of utility belts, tactical anoraks, and jersey sportswear. Tisci’s streetwear edge was more streamlined, resulting in a melting pot of sartorial genres, and the iconic Burberry trench coat appeared in traditional and new-fangled iterations, such as one instance when it became the skirt of a bustier cocktail dress with a utility belt. As for this season’s tailoring, thin silhouettes with white piping showed Tisci’s Italian roots, while injections of modern materials such as jersey and metallic embellishments appealed to the younger generation. Indeed, Tisci has always approached the youth through the power of social media.

The star-studded model cast, complete with a newly-blonde Kendall Jenner, was matched only by a star-studded audience of international influencers and celebrities, who experienced a certified carbon neutral show. “We have offset our impacts, such as the flights of guests travelling to London specifically for the show and the build and production of the event, through VSC-certified REDD+ projects, which prevent deforestation and conserve tropical rainforest in the Brazilian Amazon,” announced the brand.