T-shirt, shirt, leather shorts, socks, DIOR Leather sandals, BOSS Hat, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD x PHARRELL WILLIAM'S
Flyer Volume, REVELIGION Shorts, tie, DIOR Gloves, ABRAHAM GUTIERREZ
Flyer Volume, REVELIGION Shorts, tie, DIOR Gloves, ABRAHAM GUTIERREZ
Coat, shirt, pants, gloves, DUARTE Handbag, MARCOS LUENGO Flip flops, BOSS Neck scarf, Stylist creation
T-shirt, shirt, leather shorts, socks, DIOR Leather sandals, BOSS Hat, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD x PHARRELL WILLIAM'S
Flyer Volume, REVELIGION Shorts, tie, DIOR Gloves, ABRAHAM GUTIERREZ
Flyer Volume, REVELIGION Shorts, tie, DIOR Gloves, ABRAHAM GUTIERREZ
Coat, shirt, pants, gloves, DUARTE Handbag, MARCOS LUENGO Flip flops, BOSS Neck scarf, Stylist creation
1 / 4

強烈而鮮豔的色彩和印花在大多數人眼裏是女士的專屬風格,在模糊的性別界限之下,亦為春夏季男裝的一大重點,如Hermès、Dior等既有搶眼的螢光色調,亦有Burberry、Fendi、BOSS等用上濃郁的三原色,碰撞出型格玩味;印花同樣五花八門,花卉在設計上綻放,陸離班駁的圖案各自出彩,恍如一場藝術盛宴。至於蕾絲、蝴蝶結及ruffles等女裝常見的元素,更堂堂正正地登上男裝舞台,時而作為主角打破陳規,時而點綴出亮點,一絲溫柔的魅力,一種精緻的性感,無分男或女,跳脫傳統的刻板審美,為所謂的男子氣概賦予一個全新定義,就像Jean Paul Gaultier說:「男性特質不是在衣櫃裏,而是在腦袋裏」。

 

Trench coat, blazer, shirt, shorts, BOSS Sash, bag, MARCOS LUENGO Gloves, DUARTE Neck scarf, Stylist creation
Blazer, shorts, MANS CONCEPT Leather sandals, BOSS Glasses, POLAROID
Blazer, shirt, shoulder bag, flip flops, BOSS Bermuda, VALENTINO Cap, PARDOHATS Socks, CK JEANS Necklace, Stylist Creation
Blazer, shirt, BOSS Cap, PARDOHATS Necklace, Stylist Creation
Trench coat, blazer, shirt, shorts, BOSS Sash, bag, MARCOS LUENGO Gloves, DUARTE Neck scarf, Stylist creation
Blazer, shorts, MANS CONCEPT Leather sandals, BOSS Glasses, POLAROID
Blazer, shirt, shoulder bag, flip flops, BOSS Bermuda, VALENTINO Cap, PARDOHATS Socks, CK JEANS Necklace, Stylist Creation
Blazer, shirt, BOSS Cap, PARDOHATS Necklace, Stylist Creation
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剪裁輪廓方面同樣展示了多樣的可能性,男人的服裝,沒有想像中的無趣。 Nicolas Ghesquière在一場研討會中曾提到,「以往的中性化之所以難以實行,正是因為我們對於中性的認識,一直停留在男生穿女裝、女生穿男裝的遊戲中」,但細心一想,其實衣服並沒有性別,性別由穿着者定義。連身裙和短裙設計今個春夏蹤影大增,設計師試圖消弭男女服裝涇渭分明的界線,創造出另一番前衛優雅的反差趣味;而事實上裙子是古埃及和希臘及17、18世紀的普遍男子打扮,現在重回男士的懷抱,正如時裝風潮在輪迴之中不斷豐富著新的意義。褲子亦然,短褲設計越出越短,比過往更貼身,果斷露出肌膚,搭配西裝外套,正式依然但更顯個性,搭配襪子涼鞋,則在勾勒出淡淡的陰柔氣質的同時,不失春夏活力,體現出時裝界對性別界限的挑戰和追求。

Sahariana, pants, hat, PALOMO SPAIN Flip flops, BOSS
Trench coat, LOEWE Gloves, DUARTE Leather sandals, BOSS Cap, PARDOHATS Neck scarf, Stylist creation
Trench coat, LOEWE Cap, PARDOHATS Neck scarf, Stylist Creation
T-shirt, shirt, shorts, bag, DIOR
Sahariana, pants, hat, PALOMO SPAIN Flip flops, BOSS
Trench coat, LOEWE Gloves, DUARTE Leather sandals, BOSS Cap, PARDOHATS Neck scarf, Stylist creation
Trench coat, LOEWE Cap, PARDOHATS Neck scarf, Stylist Creation
T-shirt, shirt, shorts, bag, DIOR
1 / 4

在Gender-Fluid的推動下,男性時尚掀開全新篇章,不再被世俗思想規限,喜歡穿甚麼就穿甚麼,表達真實的自我,不就是時尚的本意?最終定義自己是誰的,不是社會,是自己。不少品牌如Gucci MX、Loewe、Dion Lee和Arturo Obegero等都停止劃分男女裝,相信有一天筆者也不會再以「女性元素」或「中性」來形容男裝設計,走出二元化的性別選擇和一般的時裝思維,你會發覺,不貼標籤的世界更廣闊。

Coat, LOEWE Technical sandals, BIRKENSTOCK x CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS Socks, CALZEDONIA
Jacket, pants, shirt, ANA LOCKING Shoulder bag, shopping bag, key ring, BOSS Neck scarf, Stylist creation
Bustier, pants, PALOMO SPAIN Gloves, DUARTE Sandals, BOSS Socks, CALZEDONIA
Blazer, shirt, ANA LOCKING T-shirt, shorts, tie, DIOR Technical sandals, BIRKENSTOCK x CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS Socks, CALZEDONIA
Coat, LOEWE Technical sandals, BIRKENSTOCK x CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS Socks, CALZEDONIA
Jacket, pants, shirt, ANA LOCKING Shoulder bag, shopping bag, key ring, BOSS Neck scarf, Stylist creation
Bustier, pants, PALOMO SPAIN Gloves, DUARTE Sandals, BOSS Socks, CALZEDONIA
Blazer, shirt, ANA LOCKING T-shirt, shorts, tie, DIOR Technical sandals, BIRKENSTOCK x CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS Socks, CALZEDONIA
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Art Directors: Rocio Ramos & Abraham Gutiérrez
Styling: Abraham Gutiérrez
Make-Up & Hair stylist: Nacho Fernandes
Photographer Assistant: Serigo Borondo
Styling Assistant: Gustavo Casas
Model: Hugo Del Pozo

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