Fashion

經典回顧:Viktor & Rolf 比高訂更瘋狂的ready-to-wear,超越任何想像力

今天的haute couture是否正走向平庸的時代?如果你看過當年Viktor & Rolf 比高訂更瘋狂的ready-to-wear的創作之後,不難得出這樣的結論。

by Christopher Lai

by Christopher Lai

5 Jul 2019

隨著奢侈品行業在上世紀九十年代後期的鞏固,高級訂製時裝不僅成為一個創意實驗室,而且成為一個精彩的營銷工具。 荷蘭二人組合Rolf Snoeren和Viktor Horsting出道時選擇的是haute couture而非ready -to-wear,極不尋常,卻奠定了他們藝術家的態度和地位。 

FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - CIRCA 1999: Viktor and Rolf Fall 1999 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
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在他們職業生涯之初,他們為時尚迷帶來了他們1999年秋季couture的俄羅斯娃娃系列。以一層層華貴袍子疊在模特兒Maggie Rizer上來造型,從磨損的粗麻布迷你裙開始,織錦裙子至最後山地花卉披肩斗篷,技驚四座。不僅完全展示了設計師在製作時尚時的手工,也是對時尚和消費的旋轉木馬循環的批判,震撼了當年的所有時裝人。

PARIS, FRANCE: A model presents a creation for Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf in front of giant video screens 09 March 2002 in Paris during the Autumn-Winter 2002/2003 ready-to-wear collections. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE: A model presents a creation for Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf in front of giant video screens 09 March 2002 in Paris during the Autumn-Winter 2002/2003 ready-to-wear collections. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE: Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf acknowledge the audience after their show in front of giant video screens 09 March 2002 in Paris during the Autumn-Winter 2002/2003 ready-to-wear collections. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE: A model presents a creation for Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf in front of giant video screens 09 March 2002 in Paris during the Autumn-Winter 2002/2003 ready-to-wear collections. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE: A model presents a creation for Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf in front of giant video screens 09 March 2002 in Paris during the Autumn-Winter 2002/2003 ready-to-wear collections. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE: Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf acknowledge the audience after their show in front of giant video screens 09 March 2002 in Paris during the Autumn-Winter 2002/2003 ready-to-wear collections. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
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然後轉戰ready-to-wear後,Rolf & Viktor並沒有把這份前衛的couture創意精神放棄。在2002秋冬系列,二人將藍色佈景版的視覺效果應用於時裝之上,在投影幕中展示另一些影片(交通路景、MTV)在衣服上,開闊了我們的眼界,可算是新媒藝術結合時尚的先鋒。

PARIS, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf next to US singer Tori Amos (L) during the Ready-to-Wear Autumn/Winter 2005-2006 collection shows in Paris 02 March 2005. AFP PHOTO/PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
PARIS - MARCH 2: A model walks down the runway at the Viktor & Rolf fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week Ready To Wear Autumm/Winter 2006 on March 2, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf during the Ready-to-Wear Autumn/Winter 2005-2006 collection shows in Paris 02 March 2005. AFP PHOTO/PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf next to US singer Tori Amos (L) during the Ready-to-Wear Autumn/Winter 2005-2006 collection shows in Paris 02 March 2005. AFP PHOTO/PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
PARIS - MARCH 2: A model walks down the runway at the Viktor & Rolf fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week Ready To Wear Autumm/Winter 2006 on March 2, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf during the Ready-to-Wear Autumn/Winter 2005-2006 collection shows in Paris 02 March 2005. AFP PHOTO/PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
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正當他們推出Flower Bomb香水,並以一整個蝴蝶結(黑和粉紅)系列推銷這香水,讓我們以為他們已經江郎才盡之時。在2005年秋冬,Rolf & Viktor又再發威。讓床單被鋪變成時裝,從正面看每個模特兒都像睡在床上,更請上Tori Amos現場自彈自唱,這個睡美人系列成功用日常日活題材進入瘋狂的時尚創作,同時不失美感,教人難忘。

Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor&Rolf during the Spring/Summer 2006 Ready-to-Wear collections in Paris, 03 October 2005. AFP PHOTO/PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor&Rolf during the Spring/Summer 2006 Ready-to-Wear collections in Paris, 03 October 2005. AFP PHOTO/PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor&Rolf during the Spring/Summer 2006 Ready-to-Wear collections in Paris, 03 October 2005. AFP PHOTO/PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor&Rolf during the Spring/Summer 2006 Ready-to-Wear collections in Paris, 03 October 2005. AFP PHOTO/PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor&Rolf during the Spring/Summer 2006 Ready-to-Wear collections in Paris, 03 October 2005. AFP PHOTO/PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by Dutch designers Viktor&Rolf during the Spring/Summer 2006 Ready-to-Wear collections in Paris, 03 October 2005. AFP PHOTO/PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
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氣勢如虹的Rolf & Viktor在2006年在米蘭開始首間專門店,上下倒轉的室內設計超現實得極有型,而同時2006秋冬天橋上所有服飾都有正常和反轉版,裙擺變成了領子;十層的吊帶裙也要反轉、上衣打側令袖子變成領子……再看今天的haute couture反倒沒有了這一份開創新局面的「眼高手又高」。

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