Fashion

維密危機再升溫:超過100名模特兒聯名請願免受性侵、天使之父辭職

這不僅是商業上的滑落,更意味著曾經Victoria's Secret造起的泡沫後仍存在醜陋不堪的一面?

by Cherry Mui

by Cherry Mui

7 Aug 2019

曾經的內衣龍頭,女孩們的夢想如今正在面臨最大的危機:Victoria’s Secret宣布取消一年一度的維密大秀後,該品牌長年的營銷主管Ed Razek也宣布辭職,即使近期也宣布了會啟用變形模特兒,想力挽狂瀾,改變不啟用多元性女模的形象,現在卻公開了一封由上百名模特兒聯署簽名的信件,直指Victoria’s Secret希望其能承諾保護模特兒在内的合約方免受不正當的性行為。而且,其中一位更是維密的前天使。

NEW YORK, NY - NOVEMBER 08: Ming Xi, Grace Elizabeth, Cindy Bruna, Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Alexina Graham walk the runway during the 2018 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show at Pier 94 on November 8, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Victoria's Secret)

NEW YORK, NY - NOVEMBER 08: Ming Xi, Grace Elizabeth, Cindy Bruna, Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Alexina Graham walk the runway during the 2018 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show at Pier 94 on November 8, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Victoria's Secret)

先要提到Ed Razek的辭職,Ed Razek正是Victoria’s Secret的幕後主導人,因此也有「天使之父」的名號,黃金時代的天使們無不是Ed Razek的傑作。從許多真人節目中都可見到他一直坐在選角的正中間,任何被Ed Razek選中的都是幸運女孩,因為這代表她們有可能成為下一個天使。

去年11月Ed Razek曾接受過meig美國版《Vogue》訪問當中就變性者及大碼模特兒的言論已激起過軒然大波,問到他會否在他說道在維密秀中挑選變性模特,他說到「當然不會。因為Victoria’s Secret製造了一種幻想,這個長達42分鐘的特別娛樂節目,在這個世界上是獨一無二的,其他時尚品牌都想成為我們,也包括那些嘲笑我們的人,他們之所以嘲笑我們也是因為我們優秀。」由於這番言論,他在幾日後便道歉,但早已難挽回Victoria’s Secret的傳統性感標籤。

Ed Razek的離職是由L Brands董事長兼首席執行官Leslie Wexner發出的一份備忘錄中宣佈。實際上,在過去一年Ed Razek已受到公司的審查,這個嚴峻的形勢下,對於今年71歲的他,離職並非突然。

NEW YORK, NY - MAY 31: Lais Ribeiro, Sara Sampaio, CMO Senior Creative Ed Razek, Martha Hunt, and Gigi Hadid attend the U.S. book launch of "Backstage Secrets By Russell James" hosted by Russell James and Ed Razek on May 31, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Russell James)

NEW YORK, NY - MAY 31: Lais Ribeiro, Sara Sampaio, CMO Senior Creative Ed Razek, Martha Hunt, and Gigi Hadid attend the U.S. book launch of "Backstage Secrets By Russell James" hosted by Russell James and Ed Razek on May 31, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Russell James)

(EXCLUSIVE, Premium Rates Apply) NEW YORK - DECEMBER 04: Alessandra Ambrosio, Adriana Lima, President and Chief Operating Officer of Victoria's Secret Ed Razek, Selita Ebanks and Karolina Kurkova attend the Private Screening of The Sexiest Night on Television: The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show at the Bowery Hotel on December 4, 2007 in New York City (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/WireImage)

(EXCLUSIVE, Premium Rates Apply) NEW YORK - DECEMBER 04: Alessandra Ambrosio, Adriana Lima, President and Chief Operating Officer of Victoria's Secret Ed Razek, Selita Ebanks and Karolina Kurkova attend the Private Screening of The Sexiest Night on Television: The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show at the Bowery Hotel on December 4, 2007 in New York City (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/WireImage)

NEW YORK CITY, NY - NOVEMBER 9: Gisele Bundchen and Ed Razek attend 10th VICTORIA'S SECRET FASHION SHOW - Backstage at Lexington Avenue Armory on November 9, 2005 in New York City. (Photo by Joe Schildhorn/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

NEW YORK CITY, NY - NOVEMBER 9: Gisele Bundchen and Ed Razek attend 10th VICTORIA'S SECRET FASHION SHOW - Backstage at Lexington Avenue Armory on November 9, 2005 in New York City. (Photo by Joe Schildhorn/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

至於Victoria’s Secret如何衰落及其不能與時並進,我們都歸因在了多元性上,其「天使計劃」背後主腦的退位,也證明了品牌想扭轉乾坤,摒棄舊一套的決心。可如今卻爆出維密公司並沒有守住當今時裝界不可觸碰的底線——性侵。

緊接著Ed Razek辭職的週二早上,The Cut報導了100多個模特簽署了一份由模特聯盟(Model Alliance)起草的公開信。簽名的包括超模Christy Turlington Burns,Victoria’s Secret合作的模特兒Carolyn Murphy,Gemma Ward,Karen Elson和Robyn Lawley等等,以及其黃金時代的前天使之一的Doutzen Kroes!

LONDON, ENGLAND - DECEMBER 02: Model Doutzen Kroes walks the runway at the annual Victoria's Secret fashion show at Earls Court on December 2, 2014 in London, England. (Photo by Michael Stewart/FilmMagic)

LONDON, ENGLAND - DECEMBER 02: Model Doutzen Kroes walks the runway at the annual Victoria's Secret fashion show at Earls Court on December 2, 2014 in London, England. (Photo by Michael Stewart/FilmMagic)

模特聯盟是由前模特Sara Ziff發起的非營利組織,該聯盟在2018年便起草了這份「尊重倡議」,希望簽署的公司能承諾保護模特兒的人權,權利包括當模特兒在工作中遇到不正當行為侵犯時,可進行舉報。其約束力適用於簽署公司的合約方,包括攝影師、經紀公司和供應商。

模特聯盟決定以公開請願的方式促使Victoria’s Secret儘快簽署協議,起因是攝影師 Timur Emek 在這幾週因不當性行為受到模特兒的指控,而且Timur Emek 曾於Victoria’s Secret合作。此外,Victoria’s Secret的星探Jeffrey Epstein也受到指控,他更是Victoria’s Secret母公司 L Brands 首席執行官Leslie Wexner 的密友兼合夥人。

LONDON, ENGLAND - DECEMBER 02: Victoria's Secret models Alessandra Ambrosio and Adriana Lima (R) walk the runway during finale of the 2014 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show at Earl's Court exhibition centre on December 2, 2014 in London, England. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Victoria's Secret)

LONDON, ENGLAND - DECEMBER 02: Victoria's Secret models Alessandra Ambrosio and Adriana Lima (R) walk the runway during finale of the 2014 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show at Earl's Court exhibition centre on December 2, 2014 in London, England. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Victoria's Secret)

除了模特兒外,這封信亦被荷李活主導的Time’s Up和行業領導者簽署,如攝影師Inez Van Lamsweerde、Vinoodh Matadin以及雜誌《Glamour》前主編Cindi Leive。

這封信中寫道「對於我們這些遭遇過這種濫用行為的人來說,這些故事令人痛苦,並且受到影響。」「儘管害怕報復或傷害她們的職業生涯,但我們與勇敢的女性站在一起,分享她們的故事。」

因此正當整個時裝界大吹多元性的變革之風,以及Time’s Up和#MeToo就是正義代表的時代,Victoria’s Secret在此節骨眼上再爆出性侵的議題,不知品牌還能何去何從?

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