這位出生於德州的Tom Ford 於1994年被任命為Gucci的創意總監,當時該品牌經歷了最艱難的階段。之前的首席設計師Dawn Mello剛剛離開Gucci加入Bergdorf Goodman,銷售低迷。 那時Gucci以不合時宜的皮革製品、絲巾和略帶的針織品而聞名,幾乎沒有故事可言。 Vogue的Sarah Mower記得,Gucci的公關人員懇求時尚編輯參加Tom Ford首次亮相的女裝秀,到了1995年,記者們是乞求進入的。Tom Ford推出了一系列強勢收藏級設計:著名的性感白色連衣裙,帶有挑釁性的剪裁從1995年開始,隨後是1996年的男女裝並演,為女性提供超性感的服裝,時尚的西裝和男士的hip-HOP長褲。 男女兩性的模特都穿著G-string,令一些保守的時尚編輯臉紅。

即使大家對這段歷史可能不盡然相熟,但相信最近看過《House of Gucci》的話就能明瞭幾分,電影由 Reeve Carney 飾演Tom Ford,最後還加入了 Tom Ford 上任創意總監的過程,以及其幫助品牌起死回生的時裝展,讓大家更進一步走進這段往事。就連 Tom Ford 本人也有入場觀看,還在看畢後在Air Mail 撰文:「當我離開電影院時,我覺得自己好像經歷了一場颶風。它是一場鬧劇還是一個貪婪故事?我經常笑出聲來,但我應該笑嗎?」 確實,當中包括了時空不正確的情節,例如1997年出現的 Gucci G String 內褲卻被電影放到首個時裝展上,難怪令本尊哭笑不得。

MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 28: A model wears a dress presented from Gucci for Spring-Summer 2003 September 28, 2002 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Franco Origlia/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 28: A model wears a dress presented from Gucci for Spring-Summer 2003 September 28, 2002 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Franco Origlia/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - MARCH 1: A model wears an outfit from the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2003-2004 collection fashion show March 1, 2003 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Giuseppe Cacace/Getty Images)
A model wears an evening dress as she presents the Gucci collection during the Milan's 2004 Spring/Summer fashion week 02 October 2003. The Milan fashion week will run until 05 October. AFP PHOTO/PAOLO COCCO (Photo credit should read PAOLO COCCO/AFP/Getty Images)
A model displays an outfit by Gucci collection during the Milan's 2004 Spring/Summer fashion week 02 October 2003. The Milan fashion week will run until 05 October. AFP PHOTO/PAOLO COCCO (Photo credit should read PAOLO COCCO/AFP/Getty Images)
FRANCE - JUNE 01: Model walks Gucci's RTW (pret a porter) Fall 1996 Runway collection designed by Tom Ford. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
Callum Best wears a creation by Gucci during the Brown Thomas International Fashion Show, at The Point in Dublin. (Photo by Ian West - PA Images/PA Images via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 28: A model wears a dress presented from Gucci for Spring-Summer 2003 September 28, 2002 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Franco Origlia/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 28: A model wears a dress presented from Gucci for Spring-Summer 2003 September 28, 2002 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Franco Origlia/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - MARCH 1: A model wears an outfit from the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2003-2004 collection fashion show March 1, 2003 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Giuseppe Cacace/Getty Images)
A model wears an evening dress as she presents the Gucci collection during the Milan's 2004 Spring/Summer fashion week 02 October 2003. The Milan fashion week will run until 05 October. AFP PHOTO/PAOLO COCCO (Photo credit should read PAOLO COCCO/AFP/Getty Images)
A model displays an outfit by Gucci collection during the Milan's 2004 Spring/Summer fashion week 02 October 2003. The Milan fashion week will run until 05 October. AFP PHOTO/PAOLO COCCO (Photo credit should read PAOLO COCCO/AFP/Getty Images)
FRANCE - JUNE 01: Model walks Gucci's RTW (pret a porter) Fall 1996 Runway collection designed by Tom Ford. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
Callum Best wears a creation by Gucci during the Brown Thomas International Fashion Show, at The Point in Dublin. (Photo by Ian West - PA Images/PA Images via Getty Images)
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Gucci由老土變得性感。 隨著誘惑滲透到Gucci的廣告中,天橋上下。 與Carine Roitfeld和Mario Testino合作無間,Tom Ford製作了一系列醜聞的廣告,為他贏得了時尚界最偉大的挑釁者的聲譽。 儘管遭到嚴厲的批評,Tom Ford在Gucci的政策證明是有效的——銷售增長狂升,Ford在新成立的Gucci集團中的角色越來越重要。 當Gucci集團於2000年收購Yves Saint Laurent時,Ford被邀請重塑這個品牌,引起創始人不滿。 話雖如此,Ford很成功將聖羅蘭70年代的華風帶來2000年代,不斷是Gucci還是YSL也十分搶眼。

ITALY - AUGUST 01: Model walks Gucci's RTW (pret a porter) Fall 1995 Runway collection designed by Tom Ford. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)

ITALY - AUGUST 01: Model walks Gucci's RTW (pret a porter) Fall 1995 Runway collection designed by Tom Ford. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)

Tom Ford在90年代也吸引了無數名人穿著者:Madonna第一季就穿上了藍色絲質色丁恤衫——這件簡約性感的經典,今日仍然是炒賣對象;今日常常穿Alessandro Michele的Jared Leto,當年也愛Tom Ford的大豪客西裝;紅地毯上女星都愛他那些極危險的性感晚裝。有如色情電影般形象和氛圍,只有肌肉男和纖瘦女、愛皮草和鱷魚皮的世界——已經不可能再出現在走向政活必須正確的世界,那時代也離我們愈來愈遠了。

Yasmine Bleeth at the Tom Ford of Gucci Hosts Fashion Benefit for APLA , The Barker Hangar at Santa Monica Air Center, Santa Monica. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Jared Leto (Photo by Jim Smeal/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
NEW YORK - APRIL 28: (U.S. TABS AND HOLLYWOOD REPORTER OUT) Vogue Magazine editor Anna Wintour arrives at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Benefit Gala sponsored by Gucci April 28, 2003 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. (Photo by Evan Agostini/Getty Images)
Nicole Kidman (dress by Gucci) arriving at the 9th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards. (Photo by Frank Trapper/Corbis via Getty Images)
Yasmine Bleeth at the Tom Ford of Gucci Hosts Fashion Benefit for APLA , The Barker Hangar at Santa Monica Air Center, Santa Monica. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Jared Leto (Photo by Jim Smeal/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
NEW YORK - APRIL 28: (U.S. TABS AND HOLLYWOOD REPORTER OUT) Vogue Magazine editor Anna Wintour arrives at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Benefit Gala sponsored by Gucci April 28, 2003 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. (Photo by Evan Agostini/Getty Images)
Nicole Kidman (dress by Gucci) arriving at the 9th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards. (Photo by Frank Trapper/Corbis via Getty Images)
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