Phoebe Philo 在2017 年離開Celine 之後便沒有新東家,儘管久不久便有她加盟不同品牌的消息,但一一都是傳聞而已。這次Phoebe Philo成為ANDAM時尚大獎評審,雖然官方發佈的照片都是昔日舊照,但是足以叫人揣測她是否在時尚界有進一步的動向。

其實早在Chloe年代Philo的退出已引發過一次危機。不但是品牌的危機,更是所有女性擔心失去Philo型女美學的恐慌。當年的Chloe如何由波希米亞的品牌,進一步提升為型女必選的風格?

 

都說這是女性設計師的時代,Miuccia Prada、Donna Karen、Stella McCartney都能創造出更能令女性滿意的款式和風格。她們獨特的知性、性感、感性都流露出當代女性的心情,Phoebe Philo就是當中的佼佼者。

 

暢銷全球的大鎖袋Paddington bag

暢銷全球的大鎖袋Paddington bag

Phoebe Philo 時代Chloe 最受歡迎的米通花lace。

Phoebe Philo 時代Chloe 最受歡迎的米通花lace。

2001年Phoebe Philo因為Stella McCartney離開由副手升為正印,將McCartney已帶回潮流前線的Chloe帶到更上層樓。Philo設計的Chloe衣服浪漫、甜美、飄逸、女人味十足,卻毫不暴露(如Gucci by Tom Ford)或霸道(如Dior by John Galliano),成為全世型自命有型女士的最佳選擇。

PARIS - OCTOBER 8: A model walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: A model walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: A model walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: A model walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: A model walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: Models walk the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: A model walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: A model walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: A model walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: A model walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: A model walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: Models walk the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
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當年,Philo的設計自然、優雅及富有女性氣質,人們搶買的對象包括娃娃裝連衣裙、高腰牛仔褲、木製楔跟鞋以及暢銷全球的大鎖袋Paddington bag。或許那時還不如她Celine時代般引發大眾迷上,但那些衣服跟Celine一樣實穿又漂亮,而且對異性有更強的吸引力。2004年,她更因為傑出的表現,成為英國時尚大獎年度設計師得主。

 

PARIS - OCTOBER 9: A models walks down the runway at the Chloe fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2005 on October 9, 2004 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 9: Models walk down the runway at the Chloe fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2005 on October 9, 2004 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 9: A Model walks down the runway at the Chloe fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2005 on October 9, 2004 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - MARCH 5: Models walk down the runway at the Chloe Fashion Show as part of Paris Fashion Week Ready To Wear Autumn/Winter 2006 on March 5, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 9: A models walks down the runway at the Chloe fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2005 on October 9, 2004 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 9: Models walk down the runway at the Chloe fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2005 on October 9, 2004 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - OCTOBER 9: A Model walks down the runway at the Chloe fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2005 on October 9, 2004 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - MARCH 5: Models walk down the runway at the Chloe Fashion Show as part of Paris Fashion Week Ready To Wear Autumn/Winter 2006 on March 5, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
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2004年Phoebe Philo與藝術商人Max Wigram結婚,有了第一個孩子。彼時Philo認為她已無法每周以歐洲之星在倫敦的家庭和巴黎的工作室奔波。 33歲的她最終辭工照顧家人,在如日方中之時2005年宣佈不再擔任Chloe創意總監一職,令不少人震驚。但更想不到的是在三年之後加入Celine,創出第二春。

 

張曼玉當年也是Phobe Philo的Chloe座上客之一 PARIS - OCTOBER 9: Maggie Cheung at the Chloe fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2005 on October 9, 2004 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)

張曼玉當年也是Phobe Philo的Chloe座上客之一 PARIS - OCTOBER 9: Maggie Cheung at the Chloe fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2005 on October 9, 2004 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)

經濟獨立的女性,既不希望把自己打造成尤物,但也不想變成冰冷無比的人,Phoebe Philo在Chloe時代創出甜美而不造作,瀟灑而非硬梆梆的新波希米亞形象。高腰褲、娃娃裙、闊身大衣在Celine年代換上了簡約主義手法,繼續發光發熱。

PARIS - OCTOBER 8: Phoebe Philo walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)

PARIS - OCTOBER 8: Phoebe Philo walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)