時尚本身就是「選擇」？ Prada 以設計探索簡單表象背後的複雜哲學｜Spring / Summer 2023 Menswear

時尚是一種態度，也是一種選擇的表達。「有數百件外套，但為什麼這才是正確的？」——Prada 創意總監 Miuccia Prada 為其 SS23 男裝系列提出了這個命題。她續說：「這是一個漫長的設計和決策過程的結合，然後才是本能。這一切都與風格有關。」，並點明了品牌今季主題：選擇（Choices）。

by Kyle Tang

20 Jun 2022

View Gallery49 張相片

「你會穿甚麼上班？」Prada 邀請荷里活巨星 Thomas Brodie-Sangster、Asa Butterfield 客串演繹對工作服的詮釋 | Fall 2022 Menswear

Runway / 2 years ago

表面看似簡單、理所當然的事物，諸如人們在生活作出任何一個微小的決定，其實背後蘊含著複雜的想法及原理。「我們被『正常』服裝的概念所吸引——從經典作品、原型、Garderobe。每件衣服都是簡單、直接、純粹的，但它們的組合和背景有其複雜性。」Prada 聯合創意總監 Raf Simons 如是說。

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Prada (@prada)

兩位聯合創意總監看準了簡單事物表象背後隱藏的變革力量，希望讓看似簡單、正常、平平無奇的單品重新塑造，打造不尋常、新奇的組合，並成為了其 2023 春夏男裝的首要任務。但要如何實踐？就像 Miuccia Prada 所說般——選擇。

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Prada (@prada)

Prada 今季以源自一塊布代表的簡單與原始性為靈感，從以紙製作的「外套」邀請函、到全以紙材打造的時裝展場景所表達的意象，對 Muccia 和 Raf 而言，今次的「選擇」顯然是返璞歸真。

今季時裝展在一所如同溫馨的房子，有著樸素的白色牆壁和壯觀的大窗戶下舉行，系列先以俐落黑白西裝造型展開序幕，整個系列充斥品牌各種經典男士單品元素，像西裝、大衣、毛衣、襯衫及牛仔褲等最為人熟悉的元素被重塑；而貫穿是次系列的皮革短褲以及格紋、條紋元素，則讓人喚起童年的自由、家庭生活最純粹的記憶。

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Prada (@prada)

化繁為簡並不容易，在今季系列中，又不難發現兩位設計師將各種為人熟悉的單品上進行精簡細節與變化，省去多餘的細節，像被移除的衣領、腳踝處的窄管設計、迷你短褲等，以帶來各款充滿輕盈與新鮮感的設計；至於以功能性面料風衣搭配皮革短褲的矛盾組合，亦展示了 Raf Simons 所描述的「反邏輯性」，而伴隨而來的便是這些「奇怪」組合所帶來的興奮和新穎感。

將原始、複雜、荒謬和毫不費力的東西混合在一起，再創造出全新的事物，並且故意保持奇怪——正好體現了今季 SS23 男裝的設計哲學——「現在對我們來說，這就是時尚。」 Miuccia Prada 總結地說道。

Prada 2023 系列更雲集一眾時尚名人，包括泰國男神 Win Metawin、韓國男神宋江、韓流組合 NCT 成員在玹 Jae Hyun，以及奧斯卡影帝 Rami Malek、美國演員 Jeff Goldblum、Jake Gyllenhaal 等特意飛往米蘭現場欣賞今季新裝，一同探索簡單表象背後的複雜哲學。

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Prada (@prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Metawin Opas-iamkajorn, Manu Rios and Filippo Scotti attend Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Jaehyun, Jeff Goldblum and Emilie Goldblum attend Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Jeff Goldblum and Song Kang attend Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Luis Partridge and Jaehyun attend Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Jake Gyllenhaal and Rami Malek attend Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: GMoney attends Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Jeff Goldblum attends Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Song Kang attends Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Jaehyun attends Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Metawin Opas-iamkajorn attends Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Rami Malek attends Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Jake Gyllenhaal attends Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Prada)

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 19: Manu Rios attends Prada Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Fashion Show on June 19, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Prada)