其實 Peter Do 品牌建立時間並不長,去年年尾才首次參與2022春夏紐約時裝週,在壯觀的曼哈頓天際線上展示了亞裔美國對極簡主義的理解。當時 Peter Do 更兌現與顧客的承諾,讓西裝褸穿起來更舒服為主,裁走多餘部分、減輕布料設計以增加可穿性。

而今季 Peter Do 則選擇跟自己對話,「這一季我更自私一點,」Peter Do 向《VOGUE》全球總監 Nicole Phelps 披露系列背後的真實想法「想做的是最能感受到我的時尚、最具個人化的。我真的很喜歡西裝。我喜歡它是需要時間來製作,你不需要買很多,而且當你找到一件好的,它就會成為你的舒適空間。我想成為女性的舒適空間。」我們都知道西裝是 Peter Do 標誌式的剪裁之一,當中分解設計更是其出神入化的得意之作。從上季的舒適過渡到今季系列,Peter Do 似乎將舒適感著眼於布料質感,而卻在剪裁方面大膽地注入實驗性精神, super oversized 極端線條的確讓人眼前一亮。

Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
Photographed by Hunter Abrams
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Peter Do 更嚴選系列的色調只限於黑色、白色、駝色和灰色,將極簡主義的精髓進行到底。好比是低調奢華的淺灰色 oversized 西裝褸,與潔白的手縫線、看似隨性的褲腳外翻形成強烈的對比,成功聚焦所有目光在精密的剪裁之上。

“Foundation” 重新審視過去標誌式的剪裁回歸根基之外,還專注於創新、更新和完善的過程。再沒有多餘的裝飾設計,Peter Do 巧妙地把熟悉的上下拼接昇華至螺旋型,黑白組合打造天然修飾效果,卻沒有丟失中性魅力。看來 Peter Do 找回當初設計的初衷,也找回那個摩登簡約的風格,看來 Peter Do 的新開始才剛要展開!


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