旅行一直是Chanel女士的愛好,如果成衣系列是帶人脫離現實世界的getaway,那麼Chanel的Cruise系列和Métiers d’Art 時裝展就是滿足了現實世界中的旅行慾望。上一季Cruise,老佛爺在巴黎大皇宮內架起了La Pausa號,經典的海軍風讓人想遠航。今年,沒有了Karl Lagerfeld的身臨別境的巨型場景,巴黎大皇宮內建起了一個相對低調但處處有心意的火車站,在大家穿過火車車廂的餐廳以及車站大堂回顧過往Métiers d’Art到訪城市後,讓人將注意力放在了Virginie Viard的首個完全自己操刀的Chanel系列。

「你可以在火車站的簡裝書找到所有精彩的作品」,Gabrielle Chanel女士曾經說過。因此火車站也是Karl Lagerfeld生前於Virginie Viard討論過的想法。不過在首個服裝系列上,我們看到了Virginie Viard自己的想法。

PARIS, FRANCE - MAY 03: A model,shoe detail, walks the runway during Chanel Cruise 2020 Collection at Le Grand Palais on May 03, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MAY 03: A model,shoe detail, walks the runway during Chanel Cruise 2020 Collection at Le Grand Palais on May 03, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MAY 03: A model, bracelet detail, walks the runway during Chanel Cruise 2020 Collection at Le Grand Palais on May 03, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MAY 03: A model,shoe detail, walks the runway during Chanel Cruise 2020 Collection at Le Grand Palais on May 03, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MAY 03: A model,shoe detail, walks the runway during Chanel Cruise 2020 Collection at Le Grand Palais on May 03, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MAY 03: A model, bracelet detail, walks the runway during Chanel Cruise 2020 Collection at Le Grand Palais on May 03, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
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海軍服,條紋毛衣,當然還有斜紋毛呢Tweed套裝就加入了俏皮的蝴蝶結、立體花卉是一如既往由Lemarie工坊製成的,以南法的花朵為靈感—Virginie Viard要向Karl Lagerfeld致敬。主體性十分強的Chanel時裝展,往往更能在手袋上看出新意。而到了Virginie Viard這裡,裙款和手拿袋上也處處有由軟網紗製成的火車站時鐘細節。鞋履方面,黑白雙色的芭蕾平底鞋,六十年代風格的中根短靴,Virginie Viard對時裝屋的檔案有執著的精神。

Chanel Cruise 2020
Chanel Cruise 2020
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讓人驚喜的是,我們看到了木村光希的天橋首秀。逐漸活躍在時裝界的木村光希Koki,穿上帶有Chanel經典繡花和斜紋毛呢Tweed套裝,還透露出少女的稚嫩感。亦有兩套Pastel色套裝看到了品牌少見的不對稱剪裁,多了點解構意味。當然,在設計上,Virginie Viard整體放開了套裝強烈的輪廓塑型感,更多的是隨性和自如,如gabardine布料的風褸和工裝的連身褲。包括2019春夏系列的double bag也換上了工裝實用的改造—腰帶作肩帶加上縫紉錢包。

在謝幕的一刻,Virginie Viard一人在諾大的巴黎大皇宮難免顯得形影單隻,跟隨Karl Lagerfeld三十年被稱為「右臂」的她在全場的掌聲中淚流滿面。

Chanel Cruise 2020
Virginie Viard, in Chanel Cruise 2020 Show
Chanel Cruise 2020
Virginie Viard, in Chanel Cruise 2020 Show
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