NEW YORK, NEW YORK - MAY 06: Naomi Campbell attends The 2019 Met Gala Celebrating Camp: Notes on Fashion at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 06, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - MAY 06: Naomi Campbell attends The 2019 Met Gala Celebrating Camp: Notes on Fashion at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 06, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue)
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Donatella Versace, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen walk the runway at the Versace Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2018 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018 on September 22, 2017 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Naomi Campbell (Photo by Rose Hartman/WireImage)
Naomi Campbell during The "Michael" Awards Benefit for the National Children's Leukemia Foundation - April 11, 1994 at Hotel Macklowe in New York City, New York, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 28: Naomi Campbell walks the runway at the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2015 fashion show during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week on January 28, 2015 in Paris, France. (Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images)
Supermodel Naomi Campbell Modeling Perry Ellis Dress (Photo by  Michel Arnaud/CORBIS/Corbis via Getty Images)
Supermodel Naomi Campbell Modeling Alaia Strapless Dress (Photo by  Michel Arnaud/CORBIS/Corbis via Getty Images)
Thierry Mugler's Spring 1992 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Condé Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - APRIL 01: Runway show for Chanel's Spring 1994 RTW collection, designed by Karl Lagerfeld. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
Vivienne Westwood's Fall 1994 RTW runway show. (Photo by Guy Marineau/Condé Nast via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 16: Naomi Campbell walks the runway at the Dolce & Gabbana show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2019 on June 16, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
Naomi Campbell modelling the Julien MacDonald Spring 2004 Collection (Photo by Mike Marsland/WireImage)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: Naomi Campbell walks the runway at the Fashion For Relief charity fashion show to kick off London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015/16 at Somerset House on February 19, 2015 in London, England. The Fashion For Relief show is in support of Ebola, raising funds and awareness for Disaster Emergency Committee: Ebola Crisis Appeal and the Ebola Survival Fund. (Photo by Samir Hussein/WireImage)
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Fashion

永遠的超模 Naomi Campbell:「多樣性從來不是潮流」

British Fashion Council 向一代英國超模 Naomi Campbell 頒發 "Fashion Icon Award",以表揚 Naomi 過去33年對時裝界的努力貢獻及對慈善的付出。

by Katherine Ho

by Katherine Ho

26 Jun 2019

View Gallery13 張相片
British Fashion Council 向一代英國超模 Naomi Campbell 頒發 "Fashion Icon Award",以表揚 Naomi 過去33年對時裝界的努力貢獻及對慈善的付出。

對於 Naomi Campbell 奪下 British Fashion Council 年度時尚大獎,絕對是當之無愧的人選。過去33年間,Naomi Campbell 成功在白人主導的時裝行業內佔據一席之位,甚至在1990年代開端,與當紅 Cindy Crawford、Christy Turlington、Linda Evangelista 和 Tatjana Patitz 掀起 supermodel 的劃時代改革。

作為時裝界裏那顆璀璨奪目的黑珍珠並非浪得虛名,以第一個黑人模特兒的身分登上《Time》、《VOGUE》法國版、《VOGUE》英國版及《VOGUE》美國版九月份封面,拍攝過的時裝雜誌封面超過500個,更為眾多奢華品牌代言行 show 如 Chanel、Prada、Louis Vuitton、Yves Saint Laurent、Versace 等,這一切的成就不僅僅是點亮了自己的事業道路,更開拓往後黑人模特兒在時裝界地位的里程碑。

 

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出生於倫敦南部的 Naomi,天生就擁有黝黑亮澤的膚色成為她成功的關鍵之一,同時也成為邁向成功的「阻礙」:不公平待遇及種族歧視。「我很幸運獲得很多機會。特別是在1988年作為第一位黑人模特兒登上《VOGUE》法國版的封面,那是相當特殊的特權。」為什麼?因為在1980年代使用黑人模特兒是種禁忌,更別說要作為封面人物,簡直比登天還難。Yves Saint Laurent 得知後,便一氣之下決定以後不會在《VOGUE》法國版登廣告,甚至撤下在雜誌上的所有廣告。就在 Saint Laurent 仗義相助讓 Naomi 完成歷史的壯舉。

 

早前宣布 Naomi 接受 BFC 榮譽之時,也同時接受外媒的電視訪問有關時裝界的多樣性問題。而向來對於歧視不公的事情 Naomi 從不會忍氣吞聲,每次發言都語出驚人。2017年曾上載一張由前總編 Alexandra Shulman 帶領的「全白人」的《VOGUE》英國團隊合照,直言不諱地說:「她(Alexandra)應該仔細地看清楚照片,完全沒有不同,就連小孩都能看出。」

「確實很震撼人心,看見不同種族及膚色的模特兒都共聚一堂出現在天橋及時尚雜誌的封面,為的向大眾展示時裝的多樣性,無疑是時尚界的重大事件,可是也不應該如此!」

這並不是潮流

這不僅是政治正確的問題,而是在一個文明的社會中自然有不同種族及類型的人類組成,無論是影視、時裝還是其他界別的工作環境,有不同膚色種族的人出現是再自然不過的事情,為何是「需要」有他們的參與而不是「應該」?

也正是因為這是時裝界最讓人關切的課題,難免有不少品牌肆意胡亂加上多樣性的標籤來迎合市場或是成為品牌推廣吹捧的 gimmick,如此為做而做並非真正能表達多樣性背後的意義,而在全球化的影響下,這種不經思考重複使用、重複複製的「多樣性」,會否是另一種「單一性」的出現呢?

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