Art & Lifestyle

Met Gala預演:深入了解Camp不得不看的中西方電影

by Cherry Mui

by Cherry Mui

5 May 2019

2019 Met Gala即將到來,明星們開始在自己社交媒體上大post紅毯造型的throwback,我們也紛紛翻閱經典的時裝造型和天橋時刻找尋“Camp:Notes on Fashion”的痕跡。不過,在新知識份子 Susan Sontag的論文中,“Camp”是一種對非自然的愛、一種對人為的自覺性浮誇的欣賞。簡單來說,Camp即坎普風格,是脫離傳統美學的審美,更多強調的是一種強烈的視覺風格。因此,除了我們馬上能與Camp聯繫起來的時裝設計如Jean Paul Gaultier,Moschino;音樂偶像如David Bowie;浮誇浪漫文學如Oscar Wilde等等,我們今天便來看看電影。

From left to right, actors Susan Sarandon, Barry Bostwick, Jonathan Adams and Peter Hinwood, on a lobby card from the 1975 musical comedy 'The Rocky Horror Picture Show', produced by 20th Century Fox. (Photo by Movie Poster Image Art/Getty Images)

From left to right, actors Susan Sarandon, Barry Bostwick, Jonathan Adams and Peter Hinwood, on a lobby card from the 1975 musical comedy 'The Rocky Horror Picture Show', produced by 20th Century Fox. (Photo by Movie Poster Image Art/Getty Images)

西方式Camp:媚俗的誇張奇想

Camp源自法文中的俚語se camper,意為「以誇張的方式展現」,因而最早可追溯到法國路易十四時代,那種華麗又奢侈的浮俗生活方式已是Camp的體現。到了電影上,光怪陸離,情節奇趣的《綠野仙蹤》(The Wizard of Oz)可以說是Camp電影的始祖。甚至是一開始的Batman電影,其吸引觀眾的首先是誇張幽默的戲服,那緊身衣和眼罩到今日都是經典。

不過,1975年《洛基恐怖晚會》(The Rocky Horror Picture Show)這部驚世駭俗,集恐怖、吸血鬼、異裝與一身的電影打開了Camp的另一特點——性別的流動。它將醜陋、縱情狂歡這種傳統鄙夷的事情以純粹的方式表達,成為了人們心中的最佳Camp電影。1995年獲得奧斯卡最佳服裝設計獎的《The Adventures of Priscilla,Queen of the Deset”就是對變裝皇后Camp式的讚美。

羽毛、亮片、長紗、誇張的頭飾就是Camp電影的服裝標誌。1964年的《What A Way to Go!》就是極致視覺的代表,被稱為「世界上最粉的一部電影」,比起內容,其不下70套的時尚造型和萬物粉紅的藝術指導給世界留下了更深刻的印象。

1975, "The Rocky Horror Picture Show"
From left to right, actors Susan Sarandon, Barry Bostwick, Jonathan Adams and Peter Hinwood, on a lobby card from the 1975 musical comedy 'The Rocky Horror Picture Show', produced by 20th Century Fox. (Photo by Movie Poster Image Art/Getty Images)
Jack Haley (1898 - 1979) as the Tin Man, Bert Lahr (1895 - 1967) as the Cowardly Lion, Judy Garland (1922 - 1969) as Dorothy, Ray Bolger (1904 - 1987) as the Scarecrow and Frank Morgan (1890 - 1949) as the Doorman to the Emerald City in 'The Wizard of Oz', 1939. (Photo by Silver Screen Collection/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
1966, "Batman, the Movie"
1995, "To Wong Foo, Thanks For Everything! Julie Newmar" (Photo by Universal/Getty Images)
1995, "To Wong Foo, Thanks For Everything! Julie Newmar"
1964, "What A Way to Go!"
1994, "The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert"
1995, "Showgirls"
1997, "Romy and Michele’s High School Reunion"
2013, "The Great Gatsby"
1975, "The Rocky Horror Picture Show"
From left to right, actors Susan Sarandon, Barry Bostwick, Jonathan Adams and Peter Hinwood, on a lobby card from the 1975 musical comedy 'The Rocky Horror Picture Show', produced by 20th Century Fox. (Photo by Movie Poster Image Art/Getty Images)
Jack Haley (1898 - 1979) as the Tin Man, Bert Lahr (1895 - 1967) as the Cowardly Lion, Judy Garland (1922 - 1969) as Dorothy, Ray Bolger (1904 - 1987) as the Scarecrow and Frank Morgan (1890 - 1949) as the Doorman to the Emerald City in 'The Wizard of Oz', 1939. (Photo by Silver Screen Collection/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
1966, "Batman, the Movie"
1995, "To Wong Foo, Thanks For Everything! Julie Newmar" (Photo by Universal/Getty Images)
1995, "To Wong Foo, Thanks For Everything! Julie Newmar"
1964, "What A Way to Go!"
1994, "The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert"
1995, "Showgirls"
1997, "Romy and Michele’s High School Reunion"
2013, "The Great Gatsby"
1 / 12

這種西方傳統意義的,對常人來說可能是不喜歡但也不至於厭惡,但足以不能忽視的風格在中國電影上也有延續。如五六十年代的邵氏電影時代,香港經濟騰飛,而電影方面無論妝髮、服裝都頗有東方荷里活的韻味,加上通過邵氏女郎的演繹,達成了中西合璧的坎普美學。

近代姜文導演也是一個坎普風愛好者。其2015年的電影《一步之遙》,在海報宣傳語上便是指明了坎普的真義「打造千億把戲,玩轉浮華世界。」因此整部戲也許被人冠上看不明,但其浮誇的視覺盛宴,以及20年代的爵士服裝風格,足以帶你走進一場隨心所欲的浮華綺夢。

1972《大軍閥》
1967《鐵觀音》
2015 《一步之遙》(Gone With The Bullets)
2015 《一步之遙》(Gone With The Bullets)劇照
2015 《一步之遙》(Gone With The Bullets)劇照
1972《大軍閥》
1967《鐵觀音》
2015 《一步之遙》(Gone With The Bullets)
2015 《一步之遙》(Gone With The Bullets)劇照
2015 《一步之遙》(Gone With The Bullets)劇照
1 / 5

中國式坎普:雅俗共賞

Camp坎普的很大一部分確實是媚俗,有時甚至犧牲內容而追求風格。不過一如中式的內斂,Camp到了中國就有了另一種表達——代表者周星馳。星爺的無厘頭融入了一種故意惡俗的審美樂趣:如《功夫》裏的斧頭幫舞,《西遊記》系列,除了服裝劇情皆誇張幽默,但回看數次又有不同感悟。星爺創造的自我感知、還能達到雅俗共賞的效果,便是中國式坎普了吧。

1995《西遊記大結局之仙履奇緣》劇照
2004 《功夫》片段
1995《西遊記大結局之仙履奇緣》劇照
2004 《功夫》片段
1 / 2

說到最後,Camp坎普貫穿文化、藝術、時尚,妙的地方就是以幽默大膽地激發自我表現慾,趁Met Gala Camp風吹得厲害,你我都可以發掘出自己的Camp。

精選文章