Fashion

Lanvin的新創作總監Bruno Sialelli會否是下一位Alber Elbaz?〡設計師專訪

Lanvin 突然宣佈品牌換上了新主帥,這張陌生的面孔教人好奇,他會否是下一位Alber Elbaz?

by Daniel Cheung

by Daniel Cheung

12 Apr 2019

來到2019年,時裝界終逐漸穩定,繼Bottega Veneta 的新創作總監Daniel Lee與Lanvin新創作總監Bruno Sialelli發佈首個Runway表演獲得大眾一致掌聲,另一邊廂卻傳出Bruno Sialelli違反與前雇主LVMH簽署的競業協議限制條款而被控告。

雖然官司的去向未明,但無礙觀眾對一上任便引來不少新聞報導的Bruno Sialelli的興趣。

 

我的任務就是不能愧對自已,不能出賣這一代。

Lanvin創作總監Bruno Sialelli

PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: Fashion Designer Bruno Sialelli walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: Fashion Designer Bruno Sialelli walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)

他曾任Loewe男裝設計總監,在時裝設計領域擁有豐厚經驗,曾在Nicolas Ghesquière和Alexander Wang的領導下,擔任Balenciaga女裝季前系列的設計師,之後任職Acne Studios高級女裝系列設計師。 到底他來到Lanvin,又有甚麼計劃?「我的任務就是不能愧對自已,不能出賣這一代。我愛時裝,我很熱情、很跳脫,我想將這種性格注入Lanvin這個品牌,在她固有的系統內作出改變。」Bruno Sialelli 為 Lanvin 打造的首個系列,只花上了一個半月,便為品牌帶來翻天覆地的轉變。他認為Lanvin一直塑造的,是一種前衛女士的形象,像把龍蝦加上裙裝上,玩弄顏色的印花等等。「那種風格,是一種1970年代的前衛。但是潮流會進化,人類要與時並進,Jeanne Lanvin的前衛精神總不能留在1970年代的框架。」

PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: A model walks the runway during the Lanvin show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 27, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images For Lanvin)
1 / 35

為了平衡這個品牌的基因與創意,Bruno Sialelli 認為最重要是給她一個適合的定義,除了要當代,這個新的形象更要歌頌女性的自由,給Jeanne Lanvin的精神帶來新世代的面貌。Jeanne Lanvin 對 Bruno Sialelli 而言,最吸引是她的故事、她與女兒的關係,和她熱愛藝術的造詣。「我不能夠再利用Jeanne Lanvin的作品為創作藍本,唯有把她的精神轉化成靈感,再幻想我為我身邊的朋友設計衣裳,為這種精神添上一份當代的筆觸。」今季男女裝合併的時裝展,同樣預視了日後的Lanvin的男女裝將會更加和諧。我認為購物體驗已不需要分辦性別,同樣是把Lanvin與當代接軌的其一策略。

雖然他說「做得越多,便要做得越好。」被問到他接管品牌黑女裝部門,有沒有承受過大壓力時,他卻說「完全沒有」。堅定的語調來自他的自信,「若然這個點子行不通,總會有下一個點子。做什麼也好,總會有帶來壓力的時候,但是我很相信自已的團隊,所以我知道事情最後總會解決的。」被問到未來的發展方向, Bruno Sialleli 希望能夠堅持創新,把設計靈感與互不相關的事物連繫,從此帶來新意,像cashmere 的 babydoll dress,再配一頂法式棒球帽。希望在潮流公式化的年代,繼續接受來自不同團員的概念和想法,為Lanvin寫下全新的章節。

「Lanvin未死。」Bruno Sialleli 繼續解釋「你看看我們有這麼多的辨工室,有那麼多的員工。每季依然在推出系列,Lanvin不是一個已死的品牌。」看他首季色調像日出般浪漫及充滿希望的色調,便得知品牌已渡過黑夜,重新迎接太陽的來臨。  

 

精選文章