關於 Hussein Chalayan,是否就只能訴說一個天才設計師好像被街頭時裝打倒的故事?他到大學時裝系任教,是否只能解說是逃避?今年是 Hussein Chalayan進入時裝界25週年,他以愉悅而自豪的心舉行展覽,一如以往的訴説着他的故事。

Chalayan 表示:「我會用謙虛但自主來形容品牌 Chalayan,不是刻意低調。很多人認為知名度高跟廣告量是相等的,事實是你可以成為一個強大的品牌只因擁有強大的內在價值而不是曝光率。」他不如外間想像般正掙扎求存。「還有很多事情想去學習,也有很多市場等待發掘。自從首間專門店在倫敦 Mayfair 開設後,感覺正在盛放中。」Chalayan 說。

Chalayan 的”escape”不是逃避,即使外界總認定他被財政、快速時裝週期和網路世界所困擾着,但他只淡然表示:「當然,時裝是昂貴的行業和財務限制是難免遇到的困難,但有時候缺乏龐大預算卻能讓我更有創意地思考,因此獲得更好的成果。」網絡成為現代人的必需品,你的態度是接納還是設法潛逃?「網絡就像火一樣,就看你如何利用它。」水是空或半滿從來都取決於個人態度,你不是魚,那知它快樂不?
像很多人評論從前 Chalayan 的作品太前衞穿不了,近年的系列又越見簡單功能性強,彷彿走入了窘境,事實上這想法不過是旁人的假設,Chalayan 的理念單純如斯:「很多編輯喜歡倚仗數件較強大的作品來把設計師歸類,這無疑是種傷害。我們的工作純粹是考據身體的移動、結構和功能來發掘新的類型、工藝和能力,沒有其他。」

LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM - FEBRUARY 16: A model presents a creation by designer Hussein Chalayan during London Fashion week 16 Febuary 2000. (Photo credit should read SINEAD LYNCH/AFP/Getty Images)
Tokyo, JAPAN: This combo picture a unique outfit, the skirt is opened automatically, designed by British-based Turkish Cypriot designer Hussein Chalayan during his 2007 Spring/Summer collection at a Tokyo hotel 12 October 2006. Chalaya is now here for the promotion of the country's national brand "Turquality". AFP PHOTO/YOSHIKAZU TSUNO (Photo credit should read YOSHIKAZU TSUNO/AFP/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation by British-based Turkish Cypriot designer Hussein Chalayan during the spring/summer 2009 ready-to-wear collection show in Paris, on October 01, 2008. AFP PHOTO FRANCOIS GUILLOT (Photo credit should read FRANCOIS GUILLOT/AFP/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation by British-based Turkish Cypriot designer Hussein Chalayan during the spring/summer 2009 ready-to-wear collection show in Paris, on October 01, 2008. AFP PHOTO FRANCOIS GUILLOT (Photo credit should read FRANCOIS GUILLOT/AFP/Getty Images)
LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM - FEBRUARY 16: A model presents a creation by designer Hussein Chalayan during London Fashion week 16 Febuary 2000. (Photo credit should read SINEAD LYNCH/AFP/Getty Images)
Tokyo, JAPAN: This combo picture a unique outfit, the skirt is opened automatically, designed by British-based Turkish Cypriot designer Hussein Chalayan during his 2007 Spring/Summer collection at a Tokyo hotel 12 October 2006. Chalaya is now here for the promotion of the country's national brand "Turquality". AFP PHOTO/YOSHIKAZU TSUNO (Photo credit should read YOSHIKAZU TSUNO/AFP/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation by British-based Turkish Cypriot designer Hussein Chalayan during the spring/summer 2009 ready-to-wear collection show in Paris, on October 01, 2008. AFP PHOTO FRANCOIS GUILLOT (Photo credit should read FRANCOIS GUILLOT/AFP/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation by British-based Turkish Cypriot designer Hussein Chalayan during the spring/summer 2009 ready-to-wear collection show in Paris, on October 01, 2008. AFP PHOTO FRANCOIS GUILLOT (Photo credit should read FRANCOIS GUILLOT/AFP/Getty Images)
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要談論時裝歷史,絕對不能沒有 Chalayan 創造的這一章節。讓時裝跟建築、科技和幾何結構等聯合,沿着人體天然線條來比劃,帶來「前無古人」的時裝設計,2000年 “Coffee Table Skirt”、2007年”Bubble Skirt”、2009年 “Sculpted Tulle Dresses”等,是Chalayan在1990年代為時裝留下深刻如盤石的註腳。對照於當下很多設計師喜歡挪用别人的文化,然後以各種名義諸如「致敬」來把經典收歸於自己旗下,這些章節讓人看得尷尬。

所謂懷舊必會週期性地出現,但我從不感覺興奮。

Chalayan認為時裝界越見倚靠裙帶關係和以名人作招徠是最讓他失望的,有時甚至令情況變得滑稽。他希望新生代設計師要勇於冒險、要勤力,在學習同時要建立技術,多出外走走。像2016年LVMH Prize 得獎者並於剛展示的 Dior 早春系列中,重新演繹品牌經典 bar jacket的Grace Wales Bonner 的態度便是 Chalayan所欣賞的,他說:「有才能的人要自發地豐富和強化自己和別人的生活。」

Hussein Chalayan 和 Alexander Mcqueen是差不多時間出道,作品同樣改變了時裝的固有觀念和模式,震攝了一整個90年代。後來,Alexander Mcqueen 像隻鳯凰般遠去了,而 Hussein Chalayan 卻選擇到 University of Applied Arts Vienna 當設計學院的系主任至今,同時發展時裝品牌 Chalayan。

兩個天才分別選擇了迥異的「逃逸」方式,如果形容McQueen 是一團強烈燃燒的火,燦爛得讓人睜不開眼;那麼Hussein Chalayan 必然是清晰透徹的水,他的「逃逸」如禪修,是讓自己的心定下來,像一潭止水一般紋風不動,像一面鏡子一樣,不落一點塵垢。

Photographer: Leungmo
Stylist:  Lois Leung
Wardrobe: Chalayan
Model: Mioko@Sun Esee
Hair Stylist: Kolen But
Makeup Artist: Janice Lam
Fashion Assistant: Katherine Ho & Foxla Chiu
Photographer Assistant: Him
Makeup Assistant: Sammy