Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue
“When Miss Gloria Laura Vanderbilt married Mr. Pasquale DiCicco in California last month, she wore a wedding dress by Howard Greer, who also designed her trousseau. She is dark and beautiful, 17 years old, daughter of the late Reginald C. Vanderbilt and Mrs. Vanderbilt, and great-great-granddaughter of the famous Commodore Vanderbilt, founder of the clan.”
Photographed by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, January 15, 1942
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue “When Miss Gloria Laura Vanderbilt married Mr. Pasquale DiCicco in California last month, she wore a wedding dress by Howard Greer, who also designed her trousseau. She is dark and beautiful, 17 years old, daughter of the late Reginald C. Vanderbilt and Mrs. Vanderbilt, and great-great-granddaughter of the famous Commodore Vanderbilt, founder of the clan.” Photographed by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, January 15, 1942
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue “Mrs. Stokowski, the former Gloria Vanderbilt, and the wife of the famous conductor, has a strange beauty, slanting eyes—and an entirely new look since she cropped her famous long, black hair to a short scalloped coiffure. She is the mother of two small sons; a painter—holding her first professional exhibition in May; and among other activities is working for the Moonlight Mist Ball, to be given April 30 by Princess Gourielli, for the benefit of the New York Cancer Committee. Here, she wears a dotted silk foulard dress, with a lifting collar, designed by Leslie Morris, at Bergdorf Goodman.” Photographed by Cecil Beaton, Vogue, April 15, 1953
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue “Tall, dark-haired, with camellia-white skin and a magnificent figure, Miss Vanderbilt wears clothes superbly, brings to fashion talent, enjoyment, a sense of drama, a feeling for colour—all, endowments that also power her career as an actress, and her other enthusiasms, writing and painting. About a year ago she started buying clothes at Mainbocher, now is hopelessly (and quite happily) enmeshed in the Mainbocher dharma. ‘To go there for a fitting is really like a ballet,’ she said recently. ‘The timing is so perfect, and there's this incredible economy of just doing what is really to the point.’” Photographed by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, December 1, 1959
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue “There is a curious idea cherished by some people that no truly busy woman has time for fashion. Women like Gloria Vanderbilt are forever disconcerting them. Miss Vanderbilt, to put it conservatively, is a truly busy woman. She is, in private life, the wife of the stage, movie, and TV director Sidney Lumet and the mother of two lively young sons. In addition, she has been painting seriously for years, and has had two successful one-woman shows; she is an actress whose next role will be in her husband’s movie version of an F. Scott Fitzgerald story, Rich Boy; a playwright, with a three-character play—Three by Two—scheduled for production, and another play—two characters this time—in the works. She is, what’s more, a spirited and decisive fashion personality, and bristles visibly at the suggestion that a touch of frumpishness is, somehow, one of the credentials of an active mind or a beautiful soul. She loves clothes, says ‘they’re one of the things about being a woman.’” Photographed by Frances McLaughlin-Gill, Vogue, January 1, 1962
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue “Between Mrs. Wyatt Cooper and Mainbocher, rapport is perfect and admiration mutual—‘Nobody,’ he said recently, ‘is brighter about clothes; she comes in and picks things out right away...doesn’t even try them on before she decides what she wants.’ To Mrs. Cooper, it’s Main who ‘makes it all so easy.’ You put on a Mainbocher and forget about it; it’s right and that’s that.” Photographed by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, April 15, 1966
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue “Unruffled in ruffles, an enchanting bikini dress of red-and-white cotton-dotted Swiss, worn by Mrs. Cooper who, as Gloria Vanderbilt, will follow her successful exhibition of paintings at New York’s Hammer Galleries with another one-woman show this spring. The dress—with a huge ruffly circle of shawl covering the tiniest strip of bandeau, and a long, full skirt floating down to a deep double dust ruffle—by Anne Fogarty, of William Lind cotton. The coiffure by Miss Duval of the Kenneth Salon.” Photographed by Gianni Penati, Vogue, November 15, 1967
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue “Gloria Copper in her dressing room: Seraglio 1968...papered in violets, paved with the same paper lacquered seven times....Wearing harem pants of the same violet print. Her companion: Bird the cockatiel. Just offstage is the lacquered Victorian dressing table where she does her marvelous all-evening, no-retouching makeup....Pants and the felt vest designed by Adolfo for Mrs. Cooper; she designed the lavender cotton shirt herself, and the chains and baubles are by Kenneth Lane.” Photographed by Gianni Penati, Vogue, October 15, 1968
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue “Gloria Vanderbilt is, as we all know, a painter. And this season her works are all collages—romantic fantasies of long-gone queens and heroines muffled in snips of silver and gold foil. When Adolfo saw the collages he thought, Of course—and whipped up this extraordinary fantasy for Gloria to wear at the opening—the skirt and bodice of silver lace sprinkled with bits of shiny fuchsia and gold paillettes, mauve faux flowers nestled at the waist—the white organdie shirt with a ruff of silver lace, the white lace sleeves laced with peek-a-boo ribbons of red/green/blue grosgrain...Mrs. Cooper looking enchanting, was enchanted: ‘It’s like a child’s idea of what a dress would look like.’ ” Photographed by Jack Robinson, Vogue, August 1, 1968
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue The artist photographed for a story titled, “Gloria the Great’s Patchwork Bedroom.” Photographed by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, February 1, 1970
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue “On the street, in a room full of people, Gloria Cooper stands out. Pretty, yes—but other women are pretty. She has style. Beyond the way she ties a dime-store bandanna or arranges her necklaces—this color against that, that length against this, as though she were working out an assemblage—her presence has an intensity. Her hair is black as a paintbrush, her skin very white, and she is so slender that she seems, as was once said of Bernhardt, always to be in profile. She is opposites pulled together: casual, painstaking; reserved, open; a serious, adult painter—Gloria Vanderbilt—with a child’s gift for fantasy, which has given a new turn to her work….” Photographed by Jack Robinson, Vogue, June 1972
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue “At Geoffrey Beene’s grey-and-chrome showroom, Gloria Vanderbilt wears the two-piece dress with the tiny waist and bouffant skirt (‘My most prophetic silhouette’) in a delicious little print of pink flowers on cotton batiste—the summer party dress!” Photographed by Deborah Turbeville, Vogue, February 1975
Gloria Vanderbilt in Vogue Anderson Cooper and his mother, Gloria Vanderbilt, in her studio. Photographed by Norman Jean Roy, Vogue, March 2016
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美國名媛 Gloria Vanderbilt 2019年6月17日於曼哈頓病逝,終年95歲。

by Katherine Ho

by Katherine Ho

19 Jun 2019

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美國名媛 Gloria Vanderbilt 2019年6月17日於曼哈頓病逝,終年95歲。

Vanderbilt 在紐約上流社會中最為古老、最為顯姓揚名的家族,因此出身在如此富裕家庭中理當一帆風順,但Gloria Vanerbilt 的一生卻坎坷不平。出生於1920年代,高祖父是鐵路和船運大亨,而 Gloria 不到兩歲的時候父親則因為肝病離世,後來讓姑母入稟法院爭奪監護權。10歲之後便與母親分開,跟隨姑母到法國生活學習琴棋書畫。

因為家族背景從出生那刻便成為鎂光燈的焦點,也促使她決定建立自己個人身份 :17歲便成為 VOGUE 模特兒,著名攝影師 Cecil Beaton、Horst P. Horst、Deborah Turbeville 和 Richard Avedon 的鏡頭都曾捕捉不一樣的 Gloria Vanderbilt。最為經典的莫過於與自己的兒子 Anderson Cooper 和解後,在2016拍攝的時尚合照 (請看圖片集最後一張)。

眾所周知她擁有過四段婚姻,每段愛情都徹底成為人生事業上的轉折點:17歲下嫁經理人 Pat DiCicco 卻遭遇家暴;21歲與40歲的指揮家 Leopold Stokowski 開始第二段婚姻,更得到 Leopold 的鼓勵進修藝術,28歲便開設個人藝術展;31歲轉戰演藝事業,演出百老匯及出版詩集;隨後與導演 Sidney Lumet 相戀七年;而最後一任也是最幸福的婚姻便是與作家 Wyatt Emory Cooper,為他誕下 Carter Cooper 和 Anderson Cooper。可是之後 Cooper 因病離世、大兒子 Cater 卻在她面前跳樓自殺。本來 Gloria 也打算放棄生命的時候,卻顧慮到小兒子 Anderson Cooper 而堅持生活下來。但天意弄人,兩母子關係屢次傳呼不和,兩人卻在2015年才修復關係。

儘管含着金鎖匙出生的她,依然靠自己的能力成為多悽事業發展的 Gloria Vanderbilt 除了本人散發出時尚魅力,成為當時一時無兩的時尚人物代表。隨後更白手起家與 Murjani 推出牛仔褲系列,推出風靡一時的彈力牛仔褲。1977年的銷售額意外地超過2億美元,如此佳績比 Calvin Klein 的牛仔褲還要成功。

一生之中說短不短,說長不長,但年邁85歲的 Gloria Vanderbilt 依然有很多事情想做,也從來沒有停止過創作。2014年出版第一本敏感露骨的情慾小說《Obsession》,看似生活在保守的曼哈頓上流社會,卻以小說手法揭露出當時紙醉金迷的狀態。

Gloria Vanderbilt 的一生一直為自己而活,活得比戲劇般的轟烈、活得比現實精彩絕倫。Gloria Vanderbilt 20196月初確診胃癌晚期,小兒 Anderson Cooper 都一直陪伴着 Gloria 身邊,直至週一於曼哈頓與世長辭。

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