FRANCE - JANUARY 21:  Designer Giorgio Armani in Paris, France on January 21st, 2008.  (Photo by Alain BENAINOUS/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
FRANCE - JANUARY 21: Designer Giorgio Armani in Paris, France on January 21st, 2008. (Photo by Alain BENAINOUS/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 17: (UK OUT) A model walks down the catwalk during the Georgio Armani fashion show as part of Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2007 on January 17, 2007 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Karl Prouse/Catwalking/Getty Images)
A model displays a creation by Italian designer Giorgio Armani for Emporio Armani during the Autumn/Winter 2008/2009 women's collections at Milan Fashion Week on February 17, 2008. AFP PHOTO / CHRISTOPHE SIMON (Photo credit should read CHRISTOPHE SIMON/AFP/Getty Images)
A model wears a creation by Italian designer Giorgio Armani as part of Giorgio Armani PrivÈ spring/summer 2015 collection presented during the Paris Haute Couture fashion week, in Paris, France, 27 January 2015. Paris Haute Couture fashion shows run until 29 January 2015. Photo: Hendrik Ballhausen /dpa | usage worldwide (Photo by Hendrik Ballhausen/picture alliance via Getty Images)
A model wears a creation by Italian designer Giorgio Armani as part of his spring/summer 2014 collection presented during the Paris Haute Couture fashion week, in Paris, France, 21 January 2014. Paris Haute Couture fashion shows run until 22 January 2014. Photo: Hendrik Ballhausen | usage worldwide (Photo by Hendrik Ballhausen/picture alliance via Getty Images)
A model wears a creation by Italian designer Giorgio Armani as part of his spring/summer 2014 collection presented during the Paris Haute Couture fashion week, in Paris, France, 21 January 2014. Paris Haute Couture fashion shows run until 22 January 2014. Photo: Hendrik Ballhausen | usage worldwide (Photo by Hendrik Ballhausen/picture alliance via Getty Images)
A model wears a creation by Italian designer Giorgio Armani as part of his fall/winter 2016/2017 collection presented during the Paris Haute Couture fashion week, in Paris, France, 5 July 2016. Paris Haute Couture fashion shows run until July 06, 2016. Photo: Hendrik Ballhausen /dpa - NO WIRE SERVICE - | usage worldwide (Photo by Hendrik Ballhausen/picture alliance via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 17: A model walks the runway at the Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on June 17, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 17: A model walks the runway at the Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on June 17, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
View Gallery9 張相片

Fashion

活生生的傳奇設計師 Giorgio Armani :最大的遺憾便是沒有照顧好自己

by Katherine Ho

by Katherine Ho

10 Jul 2019

View Gallery9 張相片

傳奇、經典的設計師彷彿比比皆是,甚至被利用氾濫而失去背後的真正意義,到底怎樣的時裝設計師才能稱得上傳奇?就好像 Christian Dior、Coco Chanel、Karl Lagerfeld 還有 Yves Saint Laurent 都足以承載「傳奇、經典」的份量,因為他們改變時裝生態、改革社會審美價值,做出的貢獻都在時裝歷史上刻下烙印。但 Giorgio Armani 先生則是個活生生的傳奇,今年已經年邁84歲的他,仍然坐擁着時尚帝國的所有 Giorgio Armani 產業。

擁有先見之明的 Armani 先生,早在四十多年前創立品牌的時候,便不認為時裝需要每季都推陳出新,時裝也不需要鬥快。反觀他筆下的設計便是以人為本,設計出極簡風格、都是經得起時間考驗的服裝。

I design for real people. I think of our customers all the time. There is no virtue whatsoever in creating clothing or accessories that are not practical.

FRANCE - MARCH 01: Giorgio Armani during the preparation of the fashion show in Place Saint Sulpice in Paris, France in March, 1998. (Photo by Eric BOUVET/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

FRANCE - MARCH 01: Giorgio Armani during the preparation of the fashion show in Place Saint Sulpice in Paris, France in March, 1998. (Photo by Eric BOUVET/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

 Armani 的時裝設計貼近日常生活,果斷地拆除男士西裝裏面的墊肩、裡布,務求讓厚重正式的西裝注入休閒而舒適的功能;改變鈕扣的位置、重塑傳統西裝比例,甚至把曾經缺陷成為嶄新的型態。因為一次偶然看見女性友人穿上自己設計的男裝西裝褸,不僅毫無遺和感,柔軟的西裝在女性身體上展現出自然的流線型,彷彿是她們的第二層肌膚。對於 Armani 來說,當初只想改革男裝時裝設計,卻意外讓這款生活氣質濃郁的西裝成為男女皆宜的中性設計。也讓他發覺更多線條剪裁、布料運用都會給男女時裝帶來不一樣的多功能效果,而不失時尚感。因此 Armani 的西裝剪裁技術仍保留獨特精緻的特性,而寬鬆外套的設計更成為無可取代的標誌性設計。

當 Armani 把時裝變成另一個語言時,他的設計便成為每個人表達自我的一種手法。雖然 Armani 的時裝事業起步比較晚,但卻在過去四十多年間從男女成衣系列、高級訂製、到泳衣內衣、牛仔褲、配飾,以及香水、酒店等等品牌開發,而向來以控制欲強的行事手法聞名的他,面對旗下所有品牌都親力親為,絕不放過任何細節,甚至是 Micro-manage。

雖然如今 Armani 先生年事已高,但依然無意讓人代勞處理所有品牌的發展,而他過去的努力也正正成就了今日的時裝王國。近年曾提及過人生最大的遺憾便是沒有照顧好自己,但卻不後悔。因此剩下來的人生,並不打算離開自己的工作,反而希望繼續將外面的世界加入自己的世界中。

精選文章