時裝，或更廣義的服裝，肯定是探討性別角色的最重要途徑之一；而性別元素或概念也反過來成為無數時裝設計師的的創作靈感。即使在這題目上造過幾多次文章，似乎在每個新時代，無論設計師、藝術家、還是策展人、編輯，仍然樂此不疲，仍有新猶。最近美國波士頓的Museum of Fine Arts為此策劃了全新展覽“Gender Bending Fashion”，追溯過去百年時裝中如何透過性形象的偏移，挑戰了社會的性別規範。

Alessandro Trincone, dress, “Annodami” Collection, Spring/Summer 2017. Cotton, synthetic. Model: Andrea Antonelli. Photograph by Gioconda and August.

Alessandro Trincone, dress, “Annodami” Collection, Spring/Summer 2017. Cotton, synthetic. Model: Andrea Antonelli. Photograph by Gioconda and August.

在整個展覽裏，出現了個人敘事，涉及性別認同和表達。性，種族，階級，流行文化，行動主義，社會正義等問題。 “Gender Bending Fashion”除了展現了不同年代的性別運動，如1920年代的garçonne look和1960年代的孔雀革命外，更加入了演員，音樂人和影響者穿著的作品，包括瑪蓮德烈治Marlene Dietrich，David Bowie，Jimi Hendrix等，多媒體演示還包括繪畫，照片，音樂和視頻。

Marlene Dietrich (Getty Images)

Marlene Dietrich (Getty Images)

近年新一代時裝設計師不少打正旗號以顛覆性別觀念作為創作核心，如英國的Charles Jeffrey Loverboy、Art School都算，不算新一代的Aleandro Michele也算當今反轉性別的中流砥柱，令當今的性別二元服裝定義受到強力挑戰。但是，中性或無性別運動並非新鮮事，過去早有不少先驅在性別議題上發力，創出非既定性別的服飾和影像，其中包括Jean-Paul Gaultier，Yves Saint Laurent，Rei Kawakubo和Rick Owens等。回顧不忘展望，展覽還探討了當下的社交媒體平台如何充當表達媒介，促進社會變革和提高LGBTQIA +社群的曝光，為他們充權，這也是時裝一大介入社會發展的範疇。

展期：March 21, 2019 – August 25, 2019

地點：Avenue of the Arts  465 Huntington Avenue Boston, Massachusetts 02115

YOHJI YAMAMOTO, WOMAN’S ENSEMBLE, SPRING 2007. Gift of Yohji Yamamoto, Inc. Photograph © Monica Feundi
DESIGNED BY VICTOR HORSTING AND ROLF SNOEREN FOR VIKTOR&ROLF, SUIT, “ONE WOMAN SHOW” COLLECTION, FALL/WINTER 2003–4. Satin, synthetic. Courtesy of Viktor&Rolf.
DESIGNED BY REI KAWAKUBO FOR COMME DES GARÇONS, BLAZER AND KILT, 2012. Museum Purchase with funds donated by the Fashion council, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK, ENSEMBLE,“WOEST (FIERCE)” COLLECTION, AUTUMN/WINTER 2016–17. Polyester, acrylic, acetate, mohair, nylon. Museum purchase with funds donated by the Fashion Council, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Catwalking/Getty Images.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO, WOMAN’S ENSEMBLE, SPRING 2007. Gift of Yohji Yamamoto, Inc. Photograph © Monica Feundi
DESIGNED BY VICTOR HORSTING AND ROLF SNOEREN FOR VIKTOR&ROLF, SUIT, “ONE WOMAN SHOW” COLLECTION, FALL/WINTER 2003–4. Satin, synthetic. Courtesy of Viktor&Rolf.
DESIGNED BY REI KAWAKUBO FOR COMME DES GARÇONS, BLAZER AND KILT, 2012. Museum Purchase with funds donated by the Fashion council, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK, ENSEMBLE,“WOEST (FIERCE)” COLLECTION, AUTUMN/WINTER 2016–17. Polyester, acrylic, acetate, mohair, nylon. Museum purchase with funds donated by the Fashion Council, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Catwalking/Getty Images.
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Gender Bending Fashion © Michael Blanchard

Gender Bending Fashion © Michael Blanchard

Exhibitiongender

Editor

Christopher Lai