7th April 1965:  Yves Saint-Laurent, ex-wonder boy of Dior, working with a fashion model at his own fashion house in Paris.  (Photo by Reg Lancaster/Express/Getty Images)
7th April 1965: Yves Saint-Laurent, ex-wonder boy of Dior, working with a fashion model at his own fashion house in Paris. (Photo by Reg Lancaster/Express/Getty Images)
Paris, France-10/07/91-French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent with Pierre Berge. (Photo by Francis Apesteguy/Getty Images)
Fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent wearing dark eyeglasses and a tuxedo, holding a cigarette in his right hand while reclining on a floral settee at his nineteenth-century Chateau Gabriel at Benerville in Normandy, France. The wall behind him features a water-lily mural by Paul Meriguet; a large chandelier hangs above him. (Photo by Horst P. Horst/Conde Nast via Getty Images)
FRANCE - DECEMBER 11: On December 11, 1954, The Young Yves Saint Laurent, First Prize Laureate, Dress Category, In The Fashion Drawings Contest Organised By The Secretariat International De La Laine (Wool International Secretariat) Next To The Model Who Wears His Creations. The Future Fashion Designer, Then Aged 18, Was Unknown At The Time. (Photo by Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images)
Portrait of French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent with mannequin at Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute,NYC,fashion exhibit,1981,photographed for L'Uomo and Italian Vogue (Photo by tobi seftel/Corbis via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - 1999: French industrialist and patron Pierre Berge was co founder of the Yves Saint Laurent Couture fashion house and onetime life partner and longtime business partner of Yves Saint Laurent. Photographed here backstage at the Hotel Meurice as he orchestrates the show while Yves Saint Laurent adjusts a models garments. (Photo by Derek Hudson/Getty Images)
(FILES) French designer Yves Saint-Laurent (C) salutes the crowd with French model Laetitia Casta (L) and French actress Catherine Deneuve (R) at the Centre Georges Pompidou art gallery in Paris, where the last Haute-Couture show ever of the designer took place. Yves Saint Laurent, one the top French designers of the 20th century, died in the evening on June 01, 2008 in Paris, the Pierre-Berge-Saint Laurent Foundation said. The reclusive French maestro, who had retired from haute couture in 2002 after four decades at the top of his trade, had been ill for some time. AFP PHOTO JEAN-PIERRE MULLER (Photo credit should read JEAN-PIERRE MULLER/AFP/Getty Images)
FRANCE - DECEMBER 11: Karl LAGERFELD (21) and Yves SAINT LAURENT (18), unknown at that time, won a first prizeat a fashion design show organized by the International Wool Secretary in a Parisian bar. Karl LAGERFELD was awarded in the coat category and Yves SAINT LAURENT in the dress category. Colette BRACCHI received the first prize in the suit category. The group is posing among the models that presented their collections. (Photo by Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images)
View Gallery8 張相片

Fashion

Yves Saint Laurent 逝世11週年,是巴黎高訂設計師最後的典範

Yves Saint Laurent 逝世11週年,VOGUE 回顧他過去輝煌而不可磨滅的歷史及貢獻。

by Katherine Ho

1 Jun 2019

View Gallery8 張相片
Yves Saint Laurent 逝世11週年,VOGUE 回顧他過去輝煌而不可磨滅的歷史及貢獻。

Yves 的逝世11週年讓人不禁想起不久前 Karl Lagerfeld 的離去,同樣在時裝歷史上劃下輝煌時刻的佼佼者:Karl 徹底改變時裝設計師的意義,而 Yves 則是巴黎時裝設計師最後的典範。沒有人會知道1954年巴黎的國際羊毛設計比賽 Woolmark 上誕生兩位影響整個時尚界未來的一對鬼才:18歲來自阿爾及利亞的 Yves 和 德國小子21 歲 Karl。

再好的千里馬也要有伯樂賞識,而在1953年,得到具有前瞻性眼光的《VOGUE》巴黎總編 Michel de Brunhoff 發掘,並建議 Yves 繼續完成在 École de la Chambre Syndicale 的高級訂製設計學業。兩年後兩人再次相見,Yves 的設計再次讓 Michel 感到驚豔,因為他的設計風格與 Christian Dior 的 A-line 裙子相似,於是便引薦給 Dior 先生。Dior 先生1957年在最後一個系列發佈後,毫不吝嗇地公開表揚才華出眾的 Yves,在180件系列中34件服飾更由 Yves 親自設計。隨着Dior的逝世, Yves接任創意總監一職,成為最年輕的高級訂製設計師。

Chanel 之所以在優雅的巴黎佔據一席之地,是因為 Coco Chanel 解放女性;而卻無法承受「給予女性力量」的中性設計的 Yves。因此他前衛和革新的時裝設計變成為雙面刃,得不到 Dior 顧客喜愛,卻成為另一扇創業之門,就是與 Pierre Berge 自立門戶。

A model wears a three-piece suit designed by Yves Saint Laurent. France, 1967. (Photo by © Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS/Corbis via Getty Images)

A model wears a three-piece suit designed by Yves Saint Laurent. France, 1967. (Photo by © Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS/Corbis via Getty Images)

Yves 與同齡人不同的是,早就模糊性別定義,也大膽地展示女性性慾,更開創先河利用男裝裁剪、功能性旅行外套轉化為新型女裝設計:1966年經典的 Le Smoking Suit 便革命性地出現在高級訂製系列上,取材於男裝燕尾禮服設計,重新以貼身剪裁演譯,配上優雅蕾絲裝飾的恤衫、絲綢腰帶、喇叭褲、高跟鞋,明明是充滿男性化元素,卻滲透出女性既有的高雅柔美的態度。對於Yves 來說女性穿西裝不但是自由解放的一種表現,更是打破男女地位懸殊的封閉社會。

雖然得不到時尚買手的青睞,卻引來 Bianca Jagger、Catherine Deneuve 和 Nan Kempner 等名流率先穿着他的時裝成為潮流的引領者。1975年 時裝攝影師 Helmut Newton 在巴黎燈火通明的石板街上為《VOGUE》巴黎版拍攝這要經典的吸煙裝,那刻便奠定品牌標誌性的地位及形象。

FRANCE - FEBRUARY: French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and Alber Elbaz, his ready-to-wear successor pose in February 1999, in France. (Photo by FERTON/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

FRANCE - FEBRUARY: French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and Alber Elbaz, his ready-to-wear successor pose in February 1999, in France. (Photo by FERTON/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

縱使 Yves 事業取得極大的成功,但自被 Dior 辭退後便一直深受嚴重的憂鬱症困擾,沉溺在毒品及酒精的放蕩生活。雖然品牌曾轉手給 Alber Elbaz、Tom Ford、Stefano Pilati 設計經營,但效果依然不太理想。直到2012年,Pierre 欽點 Hedi Slimane 出任品牌創意總監,Hedi 在自己上任不久,把 “Yves Saint Laurent” 換成 “Saint Laurent Paris”,將 Yves 向來稟承的女權主義精神再度展現。無可否認過往所有設計師都留下不同的足跡,卻不曾像 Hedi 般戲劇性重塑品牌,就好像在2013春夏系列中便讓標誌性的 Le Smoking、Mousselines 和蝴蝶領結經典重現,延續 Yves 的品牌精神。

Designer Yves Saint Laurent, in profile, wearing a blue caftan standing in his Marrakesh patio holding a glass and a cigarette. (Photo by Horst P. Horst/Conde Nast via Getty Images)

Designer Yves Saint Laurent, in profile, wearing a blue caftan standing in his Marrakesh patio holding a glass and a cigarette. (Photo by Horst P. Horst/Conde Nast via Getty Images)

為了適應自己輝煌成功的過往,晚年退休時亦選擇在馬拉喀什華麗地生活。最終在2008年因腦癌去世。外界對 Yves 的關注從未停止過,無論是出道創業、品牌產業被收購轉手,甚至鏡頭下的感情生活、健康狀態等都處於極大壓力下生活,也難以想像他一路艱辛走過的日子。難怪在退休的時候曾經說過自己熟悉恐懼,也害怕孤獨帶來的恐懼這般唏噓的感概。

Yves Saint Laurent 的設計顛覆女性時裝的定義,成為20世紀最有影響力的設計師之一。

精選文章