經歷早幾年的街頭便服化,Dandyism 的華貴風格近季重新成為時尚界主流。當中不能不數天鵝絨——2020秋冬天橋上出現了或優雅、或狂野、或頹唐、或性感的演繹。在 Fendi,圓線條泡泡由小黑裙表面因為天鵝絨多了一層光暗變化,更多了一陣戲劇感;在 Gucci,刺繡天鵝絨 blouse 是嬉皮士式中性頹廢;Virginie Viard 為 Chanel 女孩除了披上天鵝絨大衣,更為她們準備了扣上雙 C 扣章的天鵝絨 clutch bag —— 今年寒冬中手感最溫暖的手袋。

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 20: Mariacarla Boscono walks the runway during the Fendi fashion show as part of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on February 20, 2020 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images )
MILAN, ITALY – February 19th: A model walks the runway during the Gucci fashion show as part of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on February 19, 2020 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 03: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY) A model, bag detail walks the runway during the Chanel show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage)
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 20: Mariacarla Boscono walks the runway during the Fendi fashion show as part of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on February 20, 2020 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images )
MILAN, ITALY – February 19th: A model walks the runway during the Gucci fashion show as part of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on February 19, 2020 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 03: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY) A model, bag detail walks the runway during the Chanel show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage)
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天鵝絨是一種編織簇絨布,而它擁有獨特順滑手感,全因其紗線均勻分佈,上面有短而密的絨毛。在視覺上,正面看它深沉無比,側面看卻帶有淡淡的反光,展示一種永遠介乎低調和高調之間的角力——這也是天鵝絨晚裝總是比 satin 晚裝來得更優雅的原因,它帶厚度並且不張揚,但當穿者擺動肢體,衣服上光線的轉變總能令人把目光移向它身上。

貴族與天鵝絨密不可分,與它的起源甚有關係。在工業革命之前,天鵝絨的製作成本極高。公元8世紀,起源於伊朗的天鵝引入今天伊拉克的首都巴格達,其時埃及的開羅是世界上最大的天鵝絨生產地,大部分出口到意大利威尼斯,並傳到整個歐洲。當時的鄂圖曼帝國(Ottoman Empire,今天的土耳其一帶)統治者蘇萊曼在節日時穿上當地生產的全套深紅色天鵝絨外套,而英國國王理查德二世在其遺囑中指明,逝世後要穿上天鵝絨服裝,足證它瑰麗的風尚跨越歐亞。

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 20: A model, bag detail, walks the runway during the Moschino fashion show as part of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on February 20, 2020 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY – February 21: A model walks the runway during the Etro fashion show as part of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on February 21, 2020 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA - FEBRUARY 07: A model walks the runway at the Tom Ford AW20 Show at Milk Studios on February 07, 2020 in Hollywood, California. (Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 20: A model, bag detail, walks the runway during the Moschino fashion show as part of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on February 20, 2020 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY – February 21: A model walks the runway during the Etro fashion show as part of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on February 21, 2020 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA - FEBRUARY 07: A model walks the runway at the Tom Ford AW20 Show at Milk Studios on February 07, 2020 in Hollywood, California. (Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images)
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天鵝絨絢麗而柔和的染色深度,也使它成為教會法衣、皇室和國家長袍以及奢華掛件的合適材料;意大利天鵝絨是中世紀最華麗的衣服材質。通過改變絨毛的顏色,使用不同長度的絨毛、平紋絲、未剪裁的絨毛或用金線等不同的技巧,天鵝絨也可演化成百變的錦繡圖案,豐富的天鵝絨紋理今季也出現在 Moschino 的手袋和 biker jacket 上,可說結合了中古時代的繽紛和現代的中性型格。

說到近代,Tom Ford 在90年代中復興 Gucci,用了無數天鵝絨配上貼身剪裁,真空上陣的話題性感得無以復加。如果你錯過了當年的盛況,今季在 Etro,甚至 Tom Ford 系列中都能補回——那紫色天鵝絨關刀領禮服,猶如20年前的 Gucci。