這種將秋天潮流延續到春天的趨勢,就是本月最大的信息之一,我們稱之為「高級資產階級」 “Huate bourgeoisie”,或更通俗地說是 “New Celine effect”。Hedi Slimane 的秋冬系列以百褶裙、高筒靴和淑女襯衣,重新審視了其1970年代的鼎盛時期。所有這些都成為本季許多女性的必備款式。其實很容易理解為什麼:外觀簡單,但卻不簡約,甚至經過一番修飾搭配卻讓人耳目一新。

在另一方面,不同的搭配造型也揭開新一波的時裝設計力量,他們將會為未來的十年,乃至下一代的時裝人設計。「實驗性」已經不足以去形容新晉的設計品牌 Eckhaus Latta、Telfar Clemens 和 Vaquera 的設計,就連從 Balenciaga 到 Gucci 的奢華品牌都不斷地挑戰時裝的界限:突破性的設計概念、性別混合,還有那些難以駕馭的前衛時裝,這些都統統出現在2020春夏時裝的街頭上。

而我們在紐約、倫敦、米蘭和巴黎時裝周能看出兩大2020年春季的潮流端倪,米色到霓虹色的兩極化色調。VOGUE 為大家在 Phil Oh 過去所拍攝的914張街拍中,整理出以下八個最主要趨勢。

Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
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簡約高端

誰會想到及膝的百褶裙會成為本季重點單品?時裝場外,到處都是 Celine 風格的女性,特別是懷舊的半截裙。一樣的蝴蝶結領帶、一樣的襯衫、西裝外套還有長靴的搭配,很難看得出分別來。這種風格完全佔據了是優雅時尚的地位,甚至能夠掩蓋好壞參半的品味搭配,讓造型在簡單中展現摩登時尚的效果。

Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
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一抹米白色調

作為資產階級潮流趨勢的延伸,2019年秋季的時裝展上到處可見米色、灰褐色和駱駝色的蹤影,而至今唯一的搭配方程式便是 head to toe 的穿搭。而這種色調的服飾大多數以剪裁簡單的連身褲、連衣裙和還有最為經典的風褸為主。

Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
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顏色光譜全集

對於寧願待在家里都不願穿駝色西裝的人來說,鮮豔的色彩完全刺激大家視覺的重要一環。因此如此耀眼的顏色通常只會出現在簡單的款式上,例如 Adut Akech的冷衫和裙子,輕鬆而大膽地搭配與鈷色和翡翠色、檸檬色和紫紅色,藍綠色和橙色的組合搭配。就讓這些照片成為你這個灰色冬日的靈感來源吧;因為沒有什麼能像霓虹粉色冷衫更讓人振奮精神。

Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
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欲罷不能的浪漫主義

多得倫敦設計師 Molly Goddard 和 Simone Rocha 對花俏浪漫的演繹,給予固有形象如荷葉邊、蓬鬆剪裁的連衣裙、層次感分明的細節,已經成為衣櫃裏不能或缺的單品,這風格更成為《 Vogue 》編輯 Lynn Yaeger 的時尚制服。街拍中的女性都對 Molly Goddard 豐富層次感的紗裙充滿溺愛,還有對 Simone Rocha 戲劇性的輪廓為之沉迷,如此夢幻的造型也許配上高跟鞋才能讓造型完整,如今卻只需要簡單地搭配休閒波鞋、笨重短靴、或是不到5寸高的尖頭鞋的造型,足以讓旁人止步凝望的魅力。

Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
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新時代

如果說今季潮流能稱為「龐克」的話確實很誘人,但就變相暗示了對1970年代和1980年代的認同,不過此「龐克」與彼「龐克」不同。差別在於細微末節之間所演變而成:窩釘、格仔布、笨重長靴,均具有未來感效果。如此可見 Eckhaus Latta、Telfar Clemens、Alessandro Michele 和​​ Marine Serre 等設計師都具有前瞻性概念,將新時代的龐克時裝在2020年代推進。

Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
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短褲的事

另一個潮流便是來自2019年秋季時裝潮流遺留物:短褲,指的並非是單車褲,而是真正的短褲。2020春夏設計中最為時尚的短褲便是及膝寬鬆的短褲,通常以厚身面料如皮革所製造的短版 culottes 。這隨性的短褲不只是為了休閒星期五而存在,更是搭配西裝出席重要場合如 Valentino Chanel 的造型。

Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
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女裝也與男士相關

今年大家都看過一個現象,便是2020春夏男裝時裝展的女性觀眾比以往的多,同樣今年2020春夏女裝的觀眾,也有不少男性觀眾的出現。

Phil Oh拍攝到的大多數男性都穿着不少具實驗性的服裝如 Yu Masui 的造型便讓人印象深刻、其他人則像 Cody Fern 走向性別模糊的領域、還有一些人看起來都有自己獨特風格,包括 George Clinton Casey Spooner

Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
Photographed by Phil Oh
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空間的迷思

儘管街頭風格全面給簡潔造型所覆蓋,除了極簡連衣裙和寬鬆連衣裙之外,依然看見大家對真實狂野又驚喜的渴望與憧憬。今個月這種潮流以扭曲、誇張和錯視的輪廓出現,例如 Michelle Elie 穿着的蝴蝶結的  Comme des Garçons; Cardi B 的 Thom Browne 西裝; Masui 的 Doublet 誇張墊肩外套等等。從後面看的效果讓人驚艷,就算遮蓋樣貌也無所謂。因為時裝如果不帶點怪異,又怎麼能稱之為時尚呢?

原文轉載自《VOGUE》美國版