格仔布的歷史悠久,並且在時裝界是經常用到的布料。其中 Burberry 就在傳統的蘇格蘭格仔布中創立自己獨有米色的格紋布,並在 1921 年取得專利。其格紋和風衣款式定義了整個 Burberry 的牌子形象。以前 Burberry 的格仔多是出現在圍巾和下衣,現在換了 Riccardo Tisci 當設計總監後,整個品牌方向在傳統中帶有年輕的風格,其格仔布不時出現在整件襯衫和風衣上,高調的同時受鍾愛潮流和街頭文化的消費者喜歡。

AUG 20 1981, AUG 29 1981, SEP 1 1981; Burberry beige raincoat with plaid scarf, umbrella. The Denver; (Photo By Glen Martin/The Denver Post via Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12: Gigi Hadid seen on the streets of Manhattan on February 12, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by James Devaney/GC Images)
NEW YORK, NY - OCTOBER 10: Rihanna attends SZA In Concert at The Box on October 10, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Johnny Nunez/WireImage)
OSLO, NORWAY - AUGUST 14: Funda Christophersen wearing checked Burberry button shirt and, white midi skirt, black heels, Prada sunglasses seen outside Cathrine Hammel during Oslo Runway SS19 on August 14, 2018 in Oslo, Norway. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
COPENHAGEN, DENMARK - JANUARY 31: Swantje Soemmer is seen wearing Burberry fanny bag, beige high waist pants, two tone trench coat, white turtleneck outside Munthe during the Copenhagen Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019 - Day 3 on January 31, 2019 in Copenhagen, Denmark. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
AUG 20 1981, AUG 29 1981, SEP 1 1981; Burberry beige raincoat with plaid scarf, umbrella. The Denver; (Photo By Glen Martin/The Denver Post via Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12: Gigi Hadid seen on the streets of Manhattan on February 12, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by James Devaney/GC Images)
NEW YORK, NY - OCTOBER 10: Rihanna attends SZA In Concert at The Box on October 10, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Johnny Nunez/WireImage)
OSLO, NORWAY - AUGUST 14: Funda Christophersen wearing checked Burberry button shirt and, white midi skirt, black heels, Prada sunglasses seen outside Cathrine Hammel during Oslo Runway SS19 on August 14, 2018 in Oslo, Norway. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
COPENHAGEN, DENMARK - JANUARY 31: Swantje Soemmer is seen wearing Burberry fanny bag, beige high waist pants, two tone trench coat, white turtleneck outside Munthe during the Copenhagen Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019 - Day 3 on January 31, 2019 in Copenhagen, Denmark. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
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而眾多格仔中,要數 Tartan (蘇格蘭格紋)、 Plaid (格子花呢)、 Gingham (格子棉布)和 Buffalo Plaid 最受歡迎。 Tartan 是蘇格蘭格紋,其橫直條紋以不同顏色組成,最初出現在梭織羊毛(woven wool)布料上。而蘇格蘭格紋顧名思義是比較傳統的,最早出現在 3000 年前蘇格蘭高地的格蘭族服飾上,現在通常會出現在法蘭絨圍巾和刷毛面料西裝設計上,是所有格紋種類中最複雜細緻的。而蘇格蘭布尤其受皇室成員擁戴,如伊莉莎白皇后、已故戴安娜皇妃和凱特皇妃等更是經常穿蘇格蘭布的服裝。

WESTERN ISLES, SCOTLAND - JULY 02: Princess Diana During An Official Visit To The Western Isles Of Scotland. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
SCOTLAND - SEPTEMBER 1982: Princess Diana, Princess of Wales, at the Braemar Highland Games on September 1982 in Scotland. (Photo by Anwar Hussein/WireImage)
VENICE, ITALY - MAY 05: Princess Diana Visiting Venice, Italy. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
DUNDEE, UNITED KINGDOM - JANUARY 29: (EMBARGOED FOR PUBLICATION IN UK NEWSPAPERS UNTIL 24 HOURS AFTER CREATE DATE AND TIME) Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, who is known as the Duchess of Strathearn in Scotland, arrives to officially open V&A Dundee, Scotland's first design museum on January 29, 2019 in Dundee, Scotland. (Photo by Max Mumby/Indigo/Getty Images)
WINDSOR, UNITED KINGDOM - MAY 10: The Queen At The Royal Windor Horse Show. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
ABERDEEN, UNITED KINGDOM - AUGUST 16: Princess Diana And Prince William Leaving The Royal Yacht Britannia In Aberdeen. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
BRAEMAR, UNITED KINGDOM - APRIL 09: Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip attending the Braemar Games in Scotland. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
WESTERN ISLES, SCOTLAND - JULY 02: Princess Diana During An Official Visit To The Western Isles Of Scotland. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
SCOTLAND - SEPTEMBER 1982: Princess Diana, Princess of Wales, at the Braemar Highland Games on September 1982 in Scotland. (Photo by Anwar Hussein/WireImage)
VENICE, ITALY - MAY 05: Princess Diana Visiting Venice, Italy. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
DUNDEE, UNITED KINGDOM - JANUARY 29: (EMBARGOED FOR PUBLICATION IN UK NEWSPAPERS UNTIL 24 HOURS AFTER CREATE DATE AND TIME) Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, who is known as the Duchess of Strathearn in Scotland, arrives to officially open V&A Dundee, Scotland's first design museum on January 29, 2019 in Dundee, Scotland. (Photo by Max Mumby/Indigo/Getty Images)
WINDSOR, UNITED KINGDOM - MAY 10: The Queen At The Royal Windor Horse Show. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
ABERDEEN, UNITED KINGDOM - AUGUST 16: Princess Diana And Prince William Leaving The Royal Yacht Britannia In Aberdeen. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
BRAEMAR, UNITED KINGDOM - APRIL 09: Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip attending the Braemar Games in Scotland. (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
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Plaid 其實指的是一件穿在身上的 Tartan 大布,中間以皮帶收緊腰線,演變至蓋爾語(Gaelic word)“Plaide”,意思為毯子。 現在,Plaid 已經涵蓋了 Tartan,並經常當成是西裝上格紋的泛稱。

簡單一點的就是 check,其中最廣泛使用的有 Gingham (格子棉布)和 Buffulo Plaid  兩種。和 Plaid 不同的是,Gingham (格子棉布)是對稱和用一個顏色的紗線,只是在交叉的梭織上會造成顏色的深淺:以白色和藍色紗線為例,編織圖案的不同會導致交錯時的白色線的總量不同,白色紗線在上面多的時候藍色就會比較淺。而 Buffulo Plaid 就和 Gingham 差不多,只是 Buffalo Plaid 的斜紋比較明顯。

如果說去年是格仔西裝及大衣的天下,那麼今年除了有一貫的大衣、西裝外,可以說是格仔裙裝的世界。綜觀 2020 秋冬時裝展 ,品牌如 Christian Dior 、Alexander McQueen、Burberry、Miu Miu、Tory Burch等都有將格仔圖案融入到裙裝設計中,今季更為鮮豔,亦有不少放大格紋款式。

Christian Dior
Christian Dior
Alexander McQueen FW2020
Burberry FW2020
Burberry FW2020
Prabal Gurung FW2020
Miu Miu FW2020
Miu Miu FW2020
Miu Miu FW2020
Tory Burch FW2020
Christian Dior
Christian Dior
Alexander McQueen FW2020
Burberry FW2020
Burberry FW2020
Prabal Gurung FW2020
Miu Miu FW2020
Miu Miu FW2020
Miu Miu FW2020
Tory Burch FW2020
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