為期4日的2024春夏高訂時裝週圓滿閉幕，為全球時尚界帶來了一場令人難以忘懷的視覺盛宴。這場時裝盛事展示了許多頂尖設計師的才華和創意，演繹經典風格以至大膽的實驗性設計，把一個個獨特的故事帶上天橋。除了Chanel、Dior、Fendi、Valentino等老牌時裝屋延續典雅格調之外，以高訂聞名的Schiaparelli、Giambattista Valli、Viktor & Rolf也以前衛新穎的方式，呈現高級訂製的極致美學。而Jean Paul Gaultier邀請Simone Rocha擔任客座設計師，將維多利亞時期的復古風格進行現代化詮釋，猶如走入一場世紀交接的婚禮現場。Maison Margiela採用電影敘事的手法，把人帶回上世紀二三十年代的俱樂部，縱情享樂，墮落而陰鬱······John Galliano用激情、才華、豐盈的創造力鼓舞著無數人。今回，《Vogue》Hong Kong聚焦於SS24高訂系列的精湛工藝與創意思維，盤點天橋上8套最驚艷的造型。
#1 Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli在本季延續超現實主義風格，這套「電子元件」裙裝由舊科技產物製成，iPhone元件、計算器、按鍵手機、主板等物料成為了這套服飾的原料。創意總監Daniel Roseberry將過時舊物與璀璨奪目的水鑽交相輝映，加之時裝屋手工坊匠人的精湛技藝，令整套「電子元件」裙裝以意想不到的形式呈現，同時，也極具社會意義：被淘汰的事物是否能夠重獲新生呢？我們又如何面對過去與現在呢？
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 22: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 22, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
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#2 Dior
Dior女裝創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri融合典藏美學與摩登風尚，致敬高訂精髓與匠心魅力。這件黃色雲紋綢禮服再現了自然的多元和生機，通體點綴了「Millefiori」圖案，其纖長織線隨步伐搖曳起舞。
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 22: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 22, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)
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#3 Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli的本季最後一套由泰國女星Mai Davikah演繹的禮服成為矚目焦點，其靈感採擷於玫瑰莊園，浪漫薄紗層層疊疊，以手工藝完成的驚人細節是高訂系列的精華，並透過創新的裁剪和精湛的褶皺展現，重新定義了優雅的全新輪廓。
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 22: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 22, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)
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#4 Chanel
Chanel本季時裝展以一粒珠寶鈕扣展開，作為閉騷作品，這款烏干紗傘狀連身裙以水彩般清透的白色為基調，裙裝上配以刺繡細節展現出細緻入微的精湛工藝，將珠寶鈕扣點綴胸前，融合珠羅紗等華麗元素，呈現柔美而靈動的廓形，在模特兒的舉手投足間，展露優雅、自由與精準剪裁的匠心魅力。
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 23: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Loli Bahia walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 23, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)
#5 Armani Privé
於Giorgio Armani而言，時尚產業無疑是嚴肅的事業，然亦蘊藉玩趣巧思、避世離俗，抑或片刻遊移。尤其置身高級訂制世界，設計師沉浸其間，盡情揮灑奇妙創意。Giorgio Armani於所到之處汲取靈感，以豐盈想象力將之融入自我世界。最出彩的莫過於這套傘狀造型，極具東方詩意的格調，服裝上雅緻水彩色調於刺繡的璀璨、蕾絲的輕盈與提花的華麗中細意暈染，盡顯奇妙創意。
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 23: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Giorgio Armani Privé Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 23, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
#6 Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier邀來Simone Rocha擔任客座設計師，她也是品牌的第六位客座設計師。當洛可可風格的華麗，碰撞Jean Paul Gaultier的魅惑，編織出極富詩意的敘事。這套裸色錐形胸衣將雙方的設計語言都有所保留，交迭出叛逆甜美的少女形象。
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)
#7 Robert Wun
Robert Wun本季大玩「恐怖美學」，系列縈繞著暗黑詭異的氛圍，其中一套造型模特兒化身「泣血新娘」，將紅色水晶點綴在婚紗上，如同噴濺而出的血液，透過精準剪裁，可以看到設計師對時裝的把控力已經到了爐火純青的地步。
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
#8 Maison Margiela
John Galliano延續古典視覺美學，將緊身衣塑造出的沙漏型身材，與乳膠等特殊材質巧妙融合，展現其帶有反叛、矛盾的設計語言，打造出極具實驗性與戲劇敘事風格的造型，將時裝、藝術、文化一體呈現。
Editor
Hillary Huang
