昨晚剛結束的 Louis Vuitton 2024男裝早秋時裝展無疑是一場令人回味無窮的盛典。今次大展不僅讓香港再度回歸全球時尚行業的焦點,也成為了創意總監Pharrell Williams在時尚領域達成的又一座里程碑。

 

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在時尚界,身兼多職的創意者可能並不少見,但很少有像Pharrell這樣從音樂跨界到時尚,並且能夠留下如此巨大影響力的人。從最初和 Nigo 成立潮牌 Billionaire Boys Club,到如今帶領 Louis Vuitton 男裝系列走向新的景象,在這裡,我們不如也一同來回顧 Pharrell 創造的那些輝煌時裝時刻。

時刻1/ 同 Nigo 共同創立 Billionaire Boys Club,開始在潮流界打開知名度

Pharrell Williams 經好友介紹同 Nigo 在 2003 年左右相識後迅速成為朋友,隨後雙方先是合作推出了名為 「Ice Cream」的運動鞋款,並在多次合作後最終成立了 Billionaire Boys Club。Billionaire Boys Club 在當時迅速風靡整個潮流圈,被 Kanye West、Jay-Z等一眾潮人相中。

NEW YORK, NY - NOVEMBER 09: Pharrell Williams and Nigo attend the Opening Of Billionaire Boys Club Flagship with Pharrell Williams on November 9, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Billionaire Boys Club )

NEW YORK, NY - NOVEMBER 09: Pharrell Williams and Nigo attend the Opening Of Billionaire Boys Club Flagship with Pharrell Williams on November 9, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Billionaire Boys Club )

時刻2/ 和 Louis Vuitton 展開合作,標誌著Pharrell開始被奢侈大牌認可

2004年左右,時任Louis Vuitton的創意總監Marc Jacobs邀請Pharrell Williams參與一款太陽鏡的聯名設計,這款太陽鏡命名為「Millionaire」,Virgil Alboh 後來還復刻此款眼鏡。今次合作成功後,Louis Vuitton而後又在2008年左右再度向他拋出合作的橄欖枝,這些舉動都標誌著Pharrell的影響力開始跳脫出潮流界,被奢侈大牌認可。

Image via Getty Images

Image via Getty Images

時刻3/ 深受Karl Lagerfeld賞識,成為Chanel首位男性品牌大使

Pharrell因其突破性和無性別界線的時尚風格而深受Karl Lagerfeld欣賞,也最終因此獲得了Chanel Gabrielle手袋的代言,成為首位男性品牌大使,並擔任這一職位長達九年,直到Pharrell前往LV擔綱創意總監。

時刻4/ Pharrell 讓他的巨大紫色鉑金包成為一種潮流,持續打破性別界線

他曾多次手提這個巨大的紫色 Hermes Birkin 女款手袋,這款手袋為定製款式,Pharrell最初在2007年時在網上貼出挑選這款定製鱷魚皮的Birkin照片,當時還被網絡攻擊說他「太娘了」,但如今回頭看來,他完全就是挑戰性別界線的時尚先驅。

時刻5/ 奪得 CFDA Fashion Icon 大獎,獲得主流時尚獎項認可

2015年,Pharrell 迎來了他人生中當中又一個重要時尚時刻,那就是獲得由美國 CFDA 協會頒發的年度 Fashion Icon 大獎。這份榮譽還是由他最要好的朋友 Kanye West 親自頒發。這意味著 Pharrell 不單單是在潮流領域大獲成功,他也正式被權威時尚圈認可。

NEW YORK, NY - JUNE 01: Kanye West and Pharrell Williams pose backstage at the 2015 CFDA Fashion Awards at Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln Center on June 1, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/WireImage)

NEW YORK, NY - JUNE 01: Kanye West and Pharrell Williams pose backstage at the 2015 CFDA Fashion Awards at Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln Center on June 1, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/WireImage)

時刻6/ Pharrell x Chanel 聯名系列發布,他的個人時尚價值再度膨脹

儘管 Pharrell 和 Chanel 淵源已久,但兩者分別以個人名義進行聯名當時還是首次。該聯名系列最終在2019年發布,整個系列延續他標誌性的街頭風格,除了合作發布聯名服飾,還合作拍攝了一部音樂電影。這次合作標誌著Pharrell作為個人名義的時尚價值再度被放大。

SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA - MARCH 28: Pharrell Williams and Helen Lasichanh attend the party for the launch of CHANEL X PHARRELL Capsule Collection on March 28, 2019 in Seoul, South Korea. (Photo by Han Myung-Gu/WireImage)

SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA - MARCH 28: Pharrell Williams and Helen Lasichanh attend the party for the launch of CHANEL X PHARRELL Capsule Collection on March 28, 2019 in Seoul, South Korea. (Photo by Han Myung-Gu/WireImage)

時刻7/ 推出無性別護膚品牌 Humanrace,將潮流影響力擴散至美容領域

Pharrell將「斜槓」精神發揮到極致,在2020年時推出了無性別護膚品牌Humanrace,其潮流影響力滲透至美容領域。該品牌還在今年同 adidas 推出了全新的 Samba 聯名系列,為這款經典運動鞋推出了9個定製顏色。

LONDON, ENGLAND - NOVEMBER 25: Pharrell Williams launches his Humanrace brand at Selfridges on November 25, 2022 in London, England. (Photo by Nicky J Sims/Getty Images)

LONDON, ENGLAND - NOVEMBER 25: Pharrell Williams launches his Humanrace brand at Selfridges on November 25, 2022 in London, England. (Photo by Nicky J Sims/Getty Images)

時刻8/ 在巴黎時裝周上揭幕由他執導的LV男裝首展,創造了史實般的文化時刻

被奢侈大牌相中成為品牌大使也好,或者有機會和品牌聯名合作也罷,那都還只能說明Pharrell的個人時尚影響力以及商業價值,但真正成為一家品牌的創意總監,則意味著對他創意能力、管理能力和眼界的賞識,也真正標誌著他不只是時尚圈的「局外人」。在今年6月,Pharrell在巴黎男裝週期間終於帶來了他在男裝週的「處女作」,首展不僅獲得了巨大的社交媒體影響力,也創作了一個載入史冊的文化現象。

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 20: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Louis Vuitton Men's Creative Director Pharrell Williams acknowledges the applause of the audience after the Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 20, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Aurelien Meunier/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 20: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Louis Vuitton Men's Creative Director Pharrell Williams acknowledges the applause of the audience after the Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 20, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Aurelien Meunier/Getty Images)

時刻9/ 推出價值百萬的奢侈手袋,將LV帶入更高的品牌定位

在巴黎男裝週首展期間,Pharrell已經親自佩戴過這款價值百萬美金的奢侈手袋,這款手袋在今年11月正式發售。以LV經典包袋款式「Speedy」為原型的這款號稱「Millonaire」的手袋採取限量發售,限額購買的VIP營銷策略,似乎也暗示著LV有意同 Hermes 競爭的野心。

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 23: Pharrell Williams wears a navy blue denim with large white embroidered pattern cap, silver and gold rhinestones small circle sunglasses from Louis Vuitton, gold chain necklaces, a navy blue denim with multicolored embroidered small pattern buttoned shirt from Louis Vuitton, matching navy blue denim with multicolored embroidered small pattern large pants from Louis Vuitton, gold and diamonds bracelets, gold rings, a white t-shirt, black suede and leather sneakers from Louis Vuitton, a yellow with white LV logo print pattern shiny leather crocodile print pattern large Keepall handbag from Louis Vuitton, a coffee mug to take away from Louis Vuitton , outside Dior, during the Menswear Spring/Summer 2024 as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 23, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 23: Pharrell Williams wears a navy blue denim with large white embroidered pattern cap, silver and gold rhinestones small circle sunglasses from Louis Vuitton, gold chain necklaces, a navy blue denim with multicolored embroidered small pattern buttoned shirt from Louis Vuitton, matching navy blue denim with multicolored embroidered small pattern large pants from Louis Vuitton, gold and diamonds bracelets, gold rings, a white t-shirt, black suede and leather sneakers from Louis Vuitton, a yellow with white LV logo print pattern shiny leather crocodile print pattern large Keepall handbag from Louis Vuitton, a coffee mug to take away from Louis Vuitton , outside Dior, during the Menswear Spring/Summer 2024 as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 23, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)