「看起來不怎麼時尚」的時尚風格似乎成了 Loewe 的一張名片,在創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 的指導下,Loewe 最新的 2024 Spring Summer pre-collection 又找來了一群名人明星,通過 Juergen Teller 的鏡頭,表現得既怪異又有趣。

而最讓人驚喜的一位就是《Harry Potter》電影中飾演「麥教授」的 Maggie Smith!Maggie Smith 今年已經 88 歲,除了《Harry Potter》,「麥教授」還曾出演了《Downton Abbey》等熱門劇集,其代表作還包括《The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie》、《California Suite》等。

在宣傳照中,「麥教授」手拿 Loewe 經典的 Puzzle 手袋和 Puzzle Tote 手袋。Loewe 則將這次形象照稱之為「將不完美視為最終的完美」(highlight imperfection as the ultimate perfection),這種帶著怪誕和諷刺的風格其實已經在 Loewe 好幾個宣傳系列中出現過,讓我們一起來回顧這場「怪時尚」是如何被打造出來的。

除了「麥教授」,這次新系列形象宣傳照還有哪些名人出鏡了?

這次 Loewe 新系列的形象照拍攝還邀請了《Past Lives》主演 Greta Lee、韓國男團 NCT 成員 Taeyong、美國演員 Dakota Fanning、中國超模孫菲菲、英國演員 Josh O’Connor,攝影師則是著名的 Juergen Teller,他以標誌性的真實性、直白和簡樸風格聞名。

Loewe 在新聞稿中也分享道:「這組宣傳照是創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 和攝影師 Juergen Teller 之間持續對話的一部分。由這些獨特的人物來賦予影像生命力,而這份獨特人物名單則來自音樂、電影、藝術和時尚等不同領域」。

找北野武來打麻將、讓湯唯擺「怪姿勢」、打造像素時裝,Loewe 的「怪趣味」原來那麼多….. 

先不說 Loewe 每次新系列形象宣傳照的選角總是能夠讓人驚喜,品牌在拍攝角度上也常常別出心裁。除了這次的「麥教授」,這之前還曾找來過日本知名導演北野武拍攝了多次時裝片,比如今年五月,Loewe 2023 秋冬系列的廣告宣傳照讓北野武拿起刀叉站在背景板前。

Loewe Fall Winter 2023 Pre-collection.
Image via Loewe

Loewe Fall Winter 2023 Pre-collection.

Image via Loewe

還有 Loewe 2022 秋冬男裝系列的廣告宣傳照則讓北野武打起了麻將,這組片是 Loewe 和日本潮流店鋪 GR8 合作拍攝,鏡頭充滿了 lo-fi 粗糙質感,北野武和柄本時生、村上虹郎兩位日本演員紛紛搞怪出鏡,讓整組片非常怪誕且超現實。

Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Image via Loewe
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Image via Loewe
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Image via Loewe
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Image via Loewe
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Image via Loewe
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Image via Loewe
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Image via Loewe
Loewe 2022 Fall Winter menswear campaign.
Image via Loewe
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Loewe 2023 秋冬女裝廣告則讓文藝女神湯唯在鏡頭前也開始搞怪,儘管這組片少了些 Juergen Teller 的直白,但英國時尚攝影師 David Sims 透過人物身體的姿態呈現出了帶些唯美的超現實質感。

 

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不僅如此,Jonathan Anderson 在時裝設計上也常常擺弄自己的怪品位。比如 Loewe 2023 春夏系列中的數碼像素服裝,猶如走進了 Minecraft 的遊戲世界。

(EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
(EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
(EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
(EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
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創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 和攝影師 Juergen Teller 雙人組合打造完美的「怪時尚」

近年來「怪時尚」有流行大勢,許多奢侈品牌都開始走起了返璞歸真的畫風,而這背後的確少不了 Jonathan Anderson 的推波助瀾。Jonathan Anderson 來自北愛爾蘭,曾在倫敦時裝學院學習男裝設計,也跟隨過 Prada 左右手 Manuela Pavesi 學習視覺陳列,還曾總被認為是下一個 Phoebe Philo。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 18: Fashion designer Jonathan Anderson walks the runway during the Loewe Menswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 18, 2020 in Paris, France (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 06: Designer Jonathan Anderson walks the runway during the Loewe show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2015/2016 on March 6, 2015 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 18: Fashion designer Jonathan Anderson walks the runway during the Loewe Menswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 18, 2020 in Paris, France (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 06: Designer Jonathan Anderson walks the runway during the Loewe show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2015/2016 on March 6, 2015 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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Jonathan Anderson 不僅為 Loewe 打造除了 Puzzle 手袋這樣的經典之作,還不斷創新,陸續炮製出像火鶴花衣服、長滿草的鞋子、打了金屬結的「醜拖鞋」等熱門單品。不過我們看到的那些 Loewe 怪趣味的時裝大片,則大部分都是出自 Juergen Teller 之手。

(EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
(EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
(EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
(EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
(EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
(EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
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Jonathan Anderson 和 Juergen Teller 兩人合作其實已經非常久,Juergen Teller 也曾數次為 Anderson 的個人品牌 JW. Anderson 掌鏡,拍攝同樣趣味十足的廣告大片。

LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: Juergen Teller during London Fashion Week February 2023 on February 19, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Kirstin Sinclair/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: Juergen Teller attends the JW Anderson show during London Fashion Week September 2023 at The Roundhouse on September 16, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Jed Cullen/Dave Benett/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: Juergen Teller during London Fashion Week February 2023 on February 19, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Kirstin Sinclair/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: Juergen Teller attends the JW Anderson show during London Fashion Week September 2023 at The Roundhouse on September 16, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Jed Cullen/Dave Benett/Getty Images)
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和 Anderson 類似,Juergen Teller 的拍攝風格也充滿了叛逆的怪趣味,他們都不愛按常理出牌,這個雙人組合默契度無庸置疑。和許多時尚攝影師喜好大膽的顏色對比不同,Juergen Teller 的時裝片就顯得非常質樸。

Joan Didion on the Celine campaign under Phoebe Philo's time, photographed by Juergen Teller.
Men and Women, No. 1, Memphis, 2010 by Juergen Teller.
Joan Didion on the Celine campaign under Phoebe Philo's time, photographed by Juergen Teller.
Men and Women, No. 1, Memphis, 2010 by Juergen Teller.
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他的照片不會精心修飾,有時候就用一部 iPhone 拍攝,常常開著閃光燈。他拍攝的選景也很生活化,但被他拍攝的對象,其姿態往往非常輕鬆,甚至會有意想不到的姿勢,尤其是明星們在他鏡頭下則顯得有限乖張可愛。