Fashion

經典回顧:Karl Lagerfeld 與90s超模創造的街頭風 Chanel

Karl Lagerfeld 在一個標誌性的超級模特陣營中,與Claudia Schiffer、Naomi Campbell、Kate Moss、Carla Bruni等一起徹底改變了1990年代的時尚風格。 Karl Lagerfeld在這十年中塑造的傳奇香奈兒風格一改80年代的奢華,變得超級年輕活潑。

by Christopher Lai

9 Aug 2019

如果你很年輕,只見過晚期的Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld,可能就以為他將每季特定主題闡釋得出神入化,配合永恆的Chanel 商標元素,把賭場、雪山、超級市場等統統成品牌的時尚主題樂園。又或者你年紀成熟一點,又多只會記著當Karl 剛加入Chanel不久時,為這所時裝屋帶來的1980年代奢華風格,甚至連重排荻野目野子《Dancing Hero》舞蹈的大阪高中女生都穿上彷照的外套來向那時代致敬。至於中期的90年代,反而較少人談論,今天回看才知有多大膽驚世。

Naomi Campbell at the Chanel Spring/Summer show in 1995
Kate Moss at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1997-1998 show
Karen Mulder at the Chanel haute couture Fall/Winter 1994-1995 show
Karen Mulder at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1996 show
Carla Bruni at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1994-1995 show
Naomi Campbell at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1995-1996 show
Eva Herzigová at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1995-1996 show
Karen Mulder at the Chanel Spring/Summer show in 1995
Carla Bruni at the Chanel haute couture Spring/Summer 1995 show
Naomi Campbell at the Chanel Spring/Summer show in 1995
Kate Moss at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1997-1998 show
Karen Mulder at the Chanel haute couture Fall/Winter 1994-1995 show
Karen Mulder at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1996 show
Carla Bruni at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1994-1995 show
Naomi Campbell at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1995-1996 show
Eva Herzigová at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1995-1996 show
Karen Mulder at the Chanel Spring/Summer show in 1995
Carla Bruni at the Chanel haute couture Spring/Summer 1995 show
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進入1990年代,金碧輝煌的浮華風格退卻,街頭運動風格全面盛行,傳統名牌不再高高在上,同時簡約主義崛起,「愈少愈好」成為新時代設計意識形態,靈活多變的Karl Lagerfeld極快以兩種風格注入Chanel,迎接新的市場需要,更與一眾真正的超模打造出光輝的一頁。且看Kate Moss和Naomi Campbell身上令人咋舌的超性感比堅尼、還有Claudia Schiffer的牛仔衫褲,你不能不配服當時老佛爺一往無前的膽色,令品牌與時並進,和新世代打成一片。

Linda Evangelista at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1990 show
Carla Bruni at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1996 show
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel Spring/Sulmmer 1995 show
Naomi Campbell at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1995-1996 show
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1996 show
Helena Christensen at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1991-1992 show
Kate Moss at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1993-1994 show
Cindy Crawford at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1994 show
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1994 show
Naomi Campbell at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1994-1995 show
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel haute couture Spring/Summer 1994 show
Karen Mulder at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1991-1992 show
Tatjana Patitz at the Chanel haute couture Fall/Winter 1991-1992 show
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1993-1994 show
Emma Sjöberg at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1993-1994 show
Helena Christensen at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1992-1993 show
Helena Christensen at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1993 show
Linda Evangelista at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1990 show
Carla Bruni at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1996 show
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel Spring/Sulmmer 1995 show
Naomi Campbell at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1995-1996 show
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1996 show
Helena Christensen at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1991-1992 show
Kate Moss at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1993-1994 show
Cindy Crawford at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1994 show
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1994 show
Naomi Campbell at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1994-1995 show
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel haute couture Spring/Summer 1994 show
Karen Mulder at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1991-1992 show
Tatjana Patitz at the Chanel haute couture Fall/Winter 1991-1992 show
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1993-1994 show
Emma Sjöberg at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1993-1994 show
Helena Christensen at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1992-1993 show
Helena Christensen at the Chanel Spring/Summer 1993 show
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此外,Karl Lagerfeld 注入的流行文化元素還有hip-hop打扮、吉卜賽民族風、美西滑浪運動等,一方面讓Chanel 變成百變的潮流先鋒;另一方面,他也回到Chanel本人最愛的簡約主義,重新定義香奈兒。無論是Carla Bruni腳上的Chanel膠雨靴還是Linda Evangelista 單色閃片四袋外套,都令人一眼難忘——蘇聯解體後,911發生前那十年的世界,是多麼的無憂無慮,才使設計師創出如此喜意盎然的系列,

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