Fashion

經典回顧:Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane 打破男裝界限第一人

Hedi Slimane 執掌人生第三個品牌 Celine,反應仍舊熱烈,他的設計常被認為與 Saint Laurent 時間相似。但真正令人驚艷的,怎都不能不提他在 Dior Homme 的七年工作,他將瘦身剪裁引入高級男裝,男裝從此不再沉悶。

by Christopher Lai

12 Sep 2019

筆者從小就是那種 outcasted 的瘦小男生,而時裝世界從來都是大男人的天下,Calvin Klein 的肌肉男、Ralph Lauren 的美式紳士、Giorgio Armani 的歐陸男士……全是成熟、大氣、雄偉的代言人,直至 Hedi Slimane 出現,瘦弱、陰柔、甚至有點病態的 Dior Homme (甚至更早前的YSL by Hedi Slimane),把當代男裝風向全面改變。

2001年橫士出世,Hedi Slimane 打破了所有男裝既定印象,窄得只有 BMI 16或以下的男生才能穿得入,鋒利有型的西裝剪裁更吸引了不少女星成為粉絲: Nicole Kidman、Sarah Jessica Parker,乃至歐陽菲菲都紛紛愛上;男性粉絲都是十分令人仰望的人物:David Bowie、Gaspard Ulliel 以至我們的張國榮和黃耀明都是最佳穿著者。

Hedi Slimane at theDior Catwalk Meanswear P-A-P Collection Spring Summer 2002 In Paris. (Photo by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images)

Hedi Slimane at theDior Catwalk Meanswear P-A-P Collection Spring Summer 2002 In Paris. (Photo by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images)

除了窄身剪裁,Slimane 最令人折服的是他將一種不是太女性化的女性化設計手法令男女都會愛上。譬如,2002春夏那些胸前滴血的釘珠恤衫、waxxed jeans、高跟靴子,都並非像 Jean Paul Gaultier 或 Versace 般大鳴大放地 gay 得出面,令不少也想 dress up 但又不想太女性化的直男或低調人士愛上。

FRANCE - FEBRUARY 26: 30th Cesar Awards Ceremony at the Theatre du Chatelet in Paris, France on February 26, 2005 - Gaspard Ulliel (dressed by Dior Homme). (Photo by Pool BENHAMOU/CATARINA/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

FRANCE - FEBRUARY 26: 30th Cesar Awards Ceremony at the Theatre du Chatelet in Paris, France on February 26, 2005 - Gaspard Ulliel (dressed by Dior Homme). (Photo by Pool BENHAMOU/CATARINA/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Nicole Kidman in a Christian Dior Homme suit and Alexander McQueen top (Photo by Gregory Pace/FilmMagic)

Nicole Kidman in a Christian Dior Homme suit and Alexander McQueen top (Photo by Gregory Pace/FilmMagic)

除了首季的劃時代黑白簡約外,筆者認為2003秋冬的大袍大甲、2005秋冬的華麗punk王子(這是最重要的一季,之後 Saint Laurent 很大程度是建立在這一季之上)、2006秋冬的極緻禮服主題都是令人再三回味的。他將西裝褸、tuxedo、衛衣、牛仔褲、波鞋的高級與街頭混合,令男裝所有界線消失,今天所有品牌都會推出這類casual wear。

Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by designer Hedi Slimane for Dior during the men's Spring-Summer 2007 collection, 04 July 2006 in Paris. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)

Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by designer Hedi Slimane for Dior during the men's Spring-Summer 2007 collection, 04 July 2006 in Paris. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)

Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by designer Hedi Slimane for Dior during the men's Spring-Summer 2007 collection, 04 July 2006 in Paris. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by designer Hedi Slimane for Dior during the men's Spring-Summer 2007 collection, 04 July 2006 in Paris. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP/Getty Images)
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但要重的是,Hedi Slimane在 Dior Homme 的七年時光,的確不斷有新發明,絕對 inspiring。他將很多我們未曾看過的男裝形態帶給時裝界,令瘦骨仙變成可以與大隻佬分庭抗禮的時尚形象。雖然後來 Saint Laurent 和 Celine的 Hedi Slimane 作品依然非常吸引,可穿度更高,但那種教人臣服的感覺就差遠了。話說回頭,一生人懂得耍的戲法來來去去其實有一套已經很難得,我們也不好意思強求他太多了吧?

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