也許是巧合吧,雨傘的出現讓 Yohji Yamamoto 2020 春夏系列的革命主題更突出明確。以魚骨設計貫穿整個系列,打造更重耳目一新的裙擺設計,盡展 Yohji Yamamoto 純熟的重構手法及獨特美學。

PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: A model walks the runway during the Balenciaga Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: A model walks the runway during the Balenciaga Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: A model walks the runway during the Balenciaga Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: A model walks the runway during the Balenciaga Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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一貫喜歡以譁眾取寵設計手法諷刺時弊的 Demna Gvasalia,Balenciaga 2020春夏系列除了讓人毛骨悚然的易容效果之外,還有身穿運動元素的男模特兒手持 Hello Kitty 手袋,營造強烈的反差視覺造型,看似在嚴肅的會議上增加一絲輕鬆有趣的話題緩解緊張局勢。

Beckett Fogg 和 Piotrek Panszczyk 雙雙在 Area 2020春夏系列總展示極端主義的精神,挑戰水晶手工與服裝的可穿性、觀賞性與製造的可能性:從精緻的水晶妝容到耳環配飾、立體流動的流蘇水晶設計出裙擺、西裝外套的墊肩、半截裙等,詮釋出1950年代至1960年代的美國對雕塑性時裝與可穿性的時裝回應。

PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: A model, shoe detail, walks the runway during the Off-White Womenswear Spring/Summer 2020 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: A model, bag detail, walks the runway during the Off-White Womenswear Spring/Summer 2020 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: A model, bag detail, walks the runway during the Off-White Womenswear Spring/Summer 2020 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: A model, shoe detail, walks the runway during the Off-White Womenswear Spring/Summer 2020 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: A model, bag detail, walks the runway during the Off-White Womenswear Spring/Summer 2020 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: A model, bag detail, walks the runway during the Off-White Womenswear Spring/Summer 2020 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
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Virgil Abloh 的街頭風格鮮明出眾,而 Off-white 2020春夏今次加入芝士奶酪建構服飾、配飾。原來這背後的原因與修讀建築學背景的他有關:當年在著名的美國奶製品大州中的威斯康辛中,就讀美國威斯康辛大學(the University of Wisconsin),這個地方就連觀看任何體育盛事,當地球迷都喜歡頭戴如芝士奶酪般的帽子來吶喊助威。

US singer Jennifer Lopez presents a creation for Versace's Women's Spring Summer 2020 collection in Milan on September 20, 2019. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP) (Photo credit should read MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP/Getty Images)

US singer Jennifer Lopez presents a creation for Versace's Women's Spring Summer 2020 collection in Milan on September 20, 2019. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP) (Photo credit should read MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP/Getty Images)

面對時裝周之最,不會有人否認這是 Versace 2020春夏系列最為經典的一套服裝吧!曾經因為這套叢林印花晚裝啟發 Google 的圖片搜索功能,如今與 Google 合作再下一城,讓 Versace 的時裝展更上一層樓,而 Jennifer Lopez 的出現讓觀眾熱血沸騰。

PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 25: A model walks the runway during the Maison Margiela Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 25, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 25: A model walks the runway during the Maison Margiela Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 25, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 25: A model walks the runway during the Maison Margiela Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 25, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 25: A model walks the runway during the Maison Margiela Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 25, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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Maison Margiela 的設計近年回歸潮流正軌,過往除了 Tabi boots 便還有枕頭狀手袋被熱捧為內行人的潮流設計。John Galliano 今季2020春夏不僅將 Margiela 標誌性的白油漆重新演繹,更將柔軟細膩的枕頭狀手袋換成幾何摺疊形狀,光澤平滑的漆皮表面,以嶄新面貌呼應系列對戰爭存有希望的中心思想。

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Andreas Kronthaler 所設計的 Vivienne Westwood 簡直是為 Instagram 而生的系列,從無數頂帽子重疊到、一條奇特而真實的魚為頭飾、還有人臉模型的金屬配飾,這些設計確實做到一鳴驚人的效果,但仔細看看細節便知道,剪裁和輪廓設計方面與 Vivienne Westwood 相比,仍有進步的空間。而最後 Bella Hadid 的斗大婚紗作為品牌閉幕設計,讓 Bella 仿佛置身由喱士打造的稀薄雲彩之中。

JW Anderson 的創造力真的非同凡響,能夠保持原創與真實性的設計唯獨 Johnathan Anderson 所擅長。藝術元素點綴設計,而清新的造型卻映襯出高雅的時尚感,就好像水晶文胸配飾於胸前的形象,象徵著女性主義的設計,卻意外地協調一致。