常說懷才不遇,事實上,真正有才華的人無論身處在哪一個位置都能發揮光芒,Roger Vivier 大抵是最好的例子。30歲時於巴黎開設工作室 Rue Royale,1942年已經早在紐約為鞋面裝有大型飾扣的高跟鞋申請專利,其後在1953年為Dior新成立的訂製鞋履部門擔當設計總監,兩年後正式與 Christian Dior 推出鞋履系列,可說是巴黎鞋履界其中一個輝煌時期,二人成功將高訂系列變成大眾輕易穿上的單品。合作十年過後,Roger Vivier 正式創立個人品牌,同時與 Christobal Balenciaga 和 Emmanuel Ungaro 等時裝傳奇大師緊密合作,最經典的,必然是於1965年在 Yves Saint Laurent 時裝展出現的方釦鞋,堪稱一個經典的誕生。

The most sold shoes of Roger Vivier with the typical buckle are displayed in the exhibition 'Roger Vivier: SchuhWERKE' in the International Leather Museum in Offenbach, Germany, 18 March 2014. Shoes of designer Roger Vivier, the inventor of the stiletto heel, are exhibited in Offenbach from 22 March to 02 November 2014. Photo: Daniel Reinhardt/dpa | usage worldwide (Photo by Daniel Reinhardt/picture alliance via Getty Images)
Présentation des modèles de chaussures créés par Roger Vivier pour Christian Dior pour la Collection Automne/Hiver 1961 : en crocodile souple, carioca et gros-grain écossais, en France, le 3 juin 1960. (Photo by KEYSTONE-FRANCE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
The most sold shoes of Roger Vivier with the typical buckle are displayed in the exhibition 'Roger Vivier: SchuhWERKE' in the International Leather Museum in Offenbach, Germany, 18 March 2014. Shoes of designer Roger Vivier, the inventor of the stiletto heel, are exhibited in Offenbach from 22 March to 02 November 2014. Photo: Daniel Reinhardt/dpa | usage worldwide (Photo by Daniel Reinhardt/picture alliance via Getty Images)
Présentation des modèles de chaussures créés par Roger Vivier pour Christian Dior pour la Collection Automne/Hiver 1961 : en crocodile souple, carioca et gros-grain écossais, en France, le 3 juin 1960. (Photo by KEYSTONE-FRANCE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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Roger Vivier 曾表示:「設計這些款式時,我考慮到女性的工作和旅行需要。因此風格必須簡單精緻。」飾扣的設計靈感源自侯爵夫人的鞋,當時人們視飾扣為腳上的首飾,他增添長形飾扣的現代感和幾何感,加上男性化的直邊和女性化的圓角設計,營造出柔和的視覺平衡效果。值得一提的,是這場 YSL 時裝展正是推出著名的 Mondrian 系列,當中鍍鉻飾扣幾乎覆蓋整隻鞋的前半部分,但依然話題十足,以今天的聯乘價值看來,它可說是史無前例的成功,全因這雙鞋子成為當季的熱賣款式,據說每天平均有50雙在巴黎 François 1ere 街上的 Roger Vivier 精品店售出,其時尚威力猶如雪球般越滾越大。

Belle Vivier

Belle Vivier

如果以 The Buckle 形容為今天所謂的「爆款」,那麼又豈能沒有一眾「帶貨女王」? 這多得法國女演員 Catherine Deneuve 在已故西班牙「超現實主義電影之父」Luis Bunue 的電影《青樓紅杏》 (Belle de Jour)中穿上這雙鞋子,讓人們留下前所未有的深刻印象,自此人們便稱之為「Belle Vivier」,當時的優雅淑女、王家閨秀紛紛效法穿上,姑勿論後來 Jacqueline Kennedy、Helen Mirren 和 Marlene Dietrich 等女星如何將這股風潮推波助瀾了。

Les actrices françaises Catherine Deneuve et Geneviève Page sur le tournage du film 'Belle de Jour' réalisé par Luis Bunuel le 23 octobre 1966, France. (Photo by REPORTERS ASSOCIES/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Les actrices françaises Catherine Deneuve et Geneviève Page sur le tournage du film 'Belle de Jour' réalisé par Luis Bunuel le 23 octobre 1966, France. (Photo by REPORTERS ASSOCIES/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

很多人形容 Roger Vivier 為一代鞋履設計大師,然而真正的大師不只是影響一代人,任何偉大的設計都可以流芳百世,甚至在繼承者的巧思而延續傳奇。自從現任創意總監 Gherardo Felloni 上任之後,他將輾轉多年且飽經歲月的方釦鞋變得年輕起來,除了在運動風潮下衍生 Viv’ Run 方釦球鞋版本,經典的 Belle Vivier 高跟鞋除了有幾乎一樣的復刻版,同時以不同物料或撞色作表現,方釦則運用皮革、亮金屬或鑲嵌水晶製成,以今年秋冬系的粉色絨呢款式為例,增添不一樣的貴氣。 除此之外, Gherardo Felloni 利用方釦形飾變得多元化起來,將它套用在手袋、頸鏈、腰帶等不同單品之上,為超過半世紀歷史的獨特設計綻放更多可能性。

Belle Vivier

Belle Vivier

PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 06: Julia Comil wears a pale yellow adjustable vest / short jacket, white large shorts, a yellow shiny ruffled / braided leather handbag from Roger Vivier, yellow suede pointed pumps heels shoes, gold rings, outside Chanel, during Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2021/2022, on July 06, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - AUGUST 02: Gabriella Berdugo wears neon pink sliders bejeweled sandals / shoes from Roger Vivier, on August 02, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: Stylist Elisa Nalin wears a Roger Vivier bag and shoes and a Plan C suit and coat on February 27, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kirstin Sinclair/Getty Images)
DUSSELDORF, GERMANY - JUNE 09: Lisa Hahnbueck is seen wearing flared Citizens of Humanity jeans, red Roger Vivier bag and sandals on June 09, 2020 in Dusseldorf, Germany. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 06: Julia Comil wears a pale yellow adjustable vest / short jacket, white large shorts, a yellow shiny ruffled / braided leather handbag from Roger Vivier, yellow suede pointed pumps heels shoes, gold rings, outside Chanel, during Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2021/2022, on July 06, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - AUGUST 02: Gabriella Berdugo wears neon pink sliders bejeweled sandals / shoes from Roger Vivier, on August 02, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 27: Stylist Elisa Nalin wears a Roger Vivier bag and shoes and a Plan C suit and coat on February 27, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kirstin Sinclair/Getty Images)
DUSSELDORF, GERMANY - JUNE 09: Lisa Hahnbueck is seen wearing flared Citizens of Humanity jeans, red Roger Vivier bag and sandals on June 09, 2020 in Dusseldorf, Germany. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
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