「這完全是比例與奢華的極致演繹！」Karl Lagerfeld的繆思Amanda Harlech如此形容1997年春夏高訂時裝秀後台的盛況。那年，27歲的Alexander McQueen發表他為Givenchy設計的首個高訂系列《Search for the Golden Fleece》震撼時裝界，模特兒身著白金色調服飾，配戴黃金羽翼，在奢華裝飾間行走的畫面，成為了全球時尚媒體的焦點。
《Vogue》資深編輯Kate Betts曾以「膽識過人的罕見天才」形容McQueen。這位年輕設計師與工坊的默契尤其令人稱道：「他們不認為我只是個擺弄裙擺的倫敦小子。」而就在一年前，另一位英國鬼才John Galliano剛為Dior獻上了他的首場高訂時裝展——這兩場改變時裝史的盛會，吸引了荷里活巨星、搖滾傳奇、流行天后甚至皇室成員齊聚一堂，完美體現了90年代高級時裝那種「奢華與叛逆共生」的獨特魅力。
Givenchy by Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 1997 Haute Couture collection, Pierre VAUTHEY/Getty Images
90年代是高級訂製服最璀璨的時代，卻也瀰漫著令人著迷的反叛氣息——頂級模特兒在後台親手為彼此上妝，影星Rosanna Arquette獨坐在Chanel時裝展的第一排靜候開場。沒有龐大隨行人員的Sylvester Stallone在後台自在徘徊，流行天后Mariah Carey懷抱愛犬現身觀眾席，而在2020年辭世的傳奇超模Stella Tennant騎著電單車瀟灑抵達時裝展現場的身影，至今仍是時裝史上最經典的畫面之一。
相較於今日嚴密管控的時裝週，90年代的時裝展洋溢著令人懷念的自在氛圍——名人們以最真實的姿態參與這場時尚盛會，無需精心策劃的公關形象，卻因此創造出無數令人難忘的瞬間。這種「精緻與不羈」的完美平衡，正是90年代高訂時裝最迷人的精神所在。現在，就讓《Vogue》帶大家重返那個黃金年代，一窺25個最具標誌性的後台時刻。
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Linda Evangelista and Kristen McMenamy backstage at the Chanel haute couture fall-winter 1991-1992 show.
Kylie Minogue and Michael Hutchence arrive at the Chanel haute couture autumn-winter 1992-1993 show
Bertrand Rindoff Petroff
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel haute couture fall-winter 1992-1993 show
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Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel haute couture fall-winter 1992-1993 show
Victor Virgile
Christy Turlington backstage at the Chanel Spring-Summer 1993 haute couture show
Victor Virgile
Backstage at the Chanel Spring-Summer 1993 Haute Couture Show
Victor Virgile
Rosanna Arquette backstage at the Chanel Spring-Summer 1993 haute couture show
Victor Virgile
Backstage at the Chanel Spring-Summer 1993 Haute Couture Show
Sylvester Stallone at the Chanel Spring-Summer 1993 Haute Couture show
Bertrand Rindoff Petroff
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel haute couture fall-winter 1993-1994 show
Rindoff/Garcia
Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel Spring-Summer 1994 Haute Couture show
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Karl Lagerfeld with Nadja Auermann, Carla Bruni, Helena Christensen and Claudia Schiffer during the Chanel Autumn-Winter 1994-1995 haute couture show.
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Helena Christensen and Michael Hutchence backstage at the Chanel haute couture fall-winter 1994-1995 show
Pierre Verdy
A model wearing a black jacket designed by Karl Lagerfeld during the preparation of the Chanel spring-summer 1995 collection.
Eric Robert
Janice Dickinson and Albert Gersten in 1995
Stephane Cardinale - Corbis
Backstage at the Dior haute couture autumn-winter 1995 show
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Nadja Auermann and Claudia Schiffer at the Chanel haute couture show for autumn-winter 1995-1996
Stephane Cardinale - Corbis
Kate Moss at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1995-1996 fashion show
Stephane Cardinale - Corbis
Naomi Campbell at the Chanel Fall/Winter 1996-1997 show
Kristen McMenamy with her daughter Lily at the Chanel Spring-Summer 1997 haute couture show
Nadja Auermann at the Chanel haute couture show for autumn-winter 1997-1998
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Stella Tennant arrives at the Chanel haute couture autumn-winter 1997-1998 show
原文轉載自《VOGUE》意大利版
Editor
Julia Hobbs
