這次縮短了的紐約時裝周依然有不少國際時裝牌子,亦有其他國家的設計師和新晉設計師牌子,可以看出 CFDA 致力推廣時裝界的包容性和多元化,並減低不必要的支出。SS20 紐約時裝週開始之前,我們整理了這次的精彩看點:

1. Telfar 取代Tom Ford,成為紐約時裝週開展牌子

以往一直是 Tom Ford 為紐約時裝周打開序幕,這次一改往常,由 Telfar 開。Telfar 是一個極具潛質的 unisex 牌子,擅長融合主流和次文化元素,創立15年來無懼時裝界的風風雨雨。有著黑人和移民背景的設計師 Telfar Clemens 更在2017奪得CFDA首飾設計獎。在現今包容性、多元化等價值觀湧現之前,設計師 Telfar Clemens 就已經一直在用自己的設計和平台在為不同聲音發聲。注重視聽享受的Telfar Clemens,其2019春夏展更是和不同藝人合作製作原創音樂。

Telfar Musicans
Look 7
Look 18
Look 23
Look 36
Designer Telfar Clemens
Telfar Musicans
Look 7
Look 18
Look 23
Look 36
Designer Telfar Clemens
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2. 紐約時裝周必看的四大品牌

紐約時尚周其實還有很多經典大牌,其時裝展亦值得關注。就如剛剛獲得首屆VMA Fashion Vanguard Award 的 Marc Jacobs,除了排場外,以往曾經邀請 Kate Moss、Lady Gaga 等作為走秀模特。今年5月他推出 The Marc Jacobs 系列,向自己初期的 grunge 系列致敬,可以看出 Marc Jacobs 在重新定位上已經找到方向,作為 The Marc Jacobs 後的首次開騷,增添2020早春系列時裝展的期待之處。

近年 Self-Portrait 迅速爆紅,除了獨家的不規則設計和結構值得關注外,設計師 Han Chong 利用他的平台推廣時裝界的多元化和 #MeToo movement, 在2019秋冬時裝展更是請到了因天生患有雄性激素不敏感症候群而成為雙性人的超模Hanne Gaby Odiele。

剛剛獲得2019 CFDA 女裝設計師獎的 Brandon Maxwell,在創立同名牌子的短短四年間就受到很多媒體曝光度,其設計的功力十分受肯定。加上Brandon Maxwell 在今年 Met Gala 幫 Lady Gaga 打造了經典的三套換裝造型,不得不期待接下來他又會如何驚艷大家。

Michael Kors 的2019秋冬成衣系列玩味十足,1970年代派對元素表達得十分通透,整個服飾和場地完美融合,相信這次 Michael Kors 的2020早春時裝展亦會在時裝和主題表達上令人再次陶醉。另外一個值得期待的是, Tommy Hilfiger 將重新回到紐約時裝展,並再次和人氣女星 Zendaya 合作舉行 TommyNow 時裝展。

Marc Jacobs Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 03
Marc Jacobs Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 12
Marc Jacobs Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 32
Designer Marc Jacobs
Hanne Gaby Odiele opening for Self-Portrait Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear
Self-Portrait Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 9
Look 24
Designer Han Chong
NEW YORK, NY - MAY 06: Fashion designer Brandon Maxwell and singer-songwriter and actress Lady Gaga are seen arriving to the 2019 Met Gala Celebrating Camp: Notes on Fashion at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 6, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Gilbert Carrasquillo/GC Images)
Brandon Maxwell Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 31
Michael Kors Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 1
Michael Kors Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 59
Tommy Hilfiger & Zendaya
Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 71
Marc Jacobs Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 03
Marc Jacobs Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 12
Marc Jacobs Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 32
Designer Marc Jacobs
Hanne Gaby Odiele opening for Self-Portrait Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear
Self-Portrait Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 9
Look 24
Designer Han Chong
NEW YORK, NY - MAY 06: Fashion designer Brandon Maxwell and singer-songwriter and actress Lady Gaga are seen arriving to the 2019 Met Gala Celebrating Camp: Notes on Fashion at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 6, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Gilbert Carrasquillo/GC Images)
Brandon Maxwell Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 31
Michael Kors Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 1
Michael Kors Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 59
Tommy Hilfiger & Zendaya
Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 71
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3. 三大新晉設計師

CFDA 還特意邀請一些新晉設計師,這些獨立設計師有着強烈的個人特色,他們的參與正是認證了時裝界在追求的多樣性、包容性、女性主義等的價值觀。其中三個值得矚目的是 Claudia Li、Collina Strada 和 Noon by Noor。畢業於 Central Saint Martin 的 Claudia Li 創立同名牌子,關注女性情感和著重個人觀點的表達,設計上有強烈的研究功力,上年九月更是直接清一色雇用了亞洲模特。具實驗性和創新的 Collina Strada 以2019秋冬成衣系列的綠色迷彩印花和細胞美學概念在時裝週得到矚目,其關注點是可持續發展和社會,設計靈感獨特且具深度。另外一個值得留意的是阿拉伯牌子 Noon by Noor ,由設計師 Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa 和 Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa 在2008年成立。Noon by Noor 從2012年開始參加紐約時尚週,設計包含中東元素,亦一直以自己的出生地巴林 Bahrain 做為主要靈感。

Claudia Li Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 3
Claudia Li Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 6
Claudia Li Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 15
Claudia Li Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 17
Designer Claudia Li
Collina Strada Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 1
Collina Strada Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 2
Collina Strada Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 6
Collina Strada Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 20
Collina Strada Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 23
Noon by Noor Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 01
Noon by Noor Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 03
Noon by Noor Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 10
Claudia Li Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 3
Claudia Li Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 6
Claudia Li Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 15
Claudia Li Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 17
Designer Claudia Li
Collina Strada Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 1
Collina Strada Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 2
Collina Strada Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 6
Collina Strada Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 20
Collina Strada Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 23
Noon by Noor Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 01
Noon by Noor Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 03
Noon by Noor Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear Look 10
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