在翻閱過去一年的時尚雜誌封面以及觀看天橋的相片時,我們不得不感到欣慰的是時裝產業的確變得越來越多樣及包容。根據The Fashion Spot的年度時裝展多樣性報告,2019年秋冬季是如今囊括最多樣化的模特的一季。紐約,倫敦,米蘭和巴黎時裝秀的非白色模特數量比2015年翻了一番,達到38.8%。而上一季2019春夏季也已達到了36.1%,不但如此去年美國主要時尚雜誌封面上的非白人人數增加達 37.7%,這些多樣包括了對各種體型、年齡、性別以及膚色的讚美。

可惜,大家看到的多樣性或許只是時尚行業的表面,多樣性還是遲遲沒有感染到時裝展的座上客?

TOPSHOT - Britain's Queen Elizabeth II, accompanied by British-American journalist and editor, Anna Wintour (R), views British designer Richard Quinn's runway show before presenting him with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, during her visit to London Fashion Week's BFC Show Space in central London on February 20, 2018. (Photo by Yui Mok / POOL / AFP) (Photo credit should read YUI MOK/AFP/Getty Images)

TOPSHOT - Britain's Queen Elizabeth II, accompanied by British-American journalist and editor, Anna Wintour (R), views British designer Richard Quinn's runway show before presenting him with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, during her visit to London Fashion Week's BFC Show Space in central London on February 20, 2018. (Photo by Yui Mok / POOL / AFP) (Photo credit should read YUI MOK/AFP/Getty Images)

亞洲時尚博主Susie Lau也向Vogue Business透露時裝週的頭排陣容並沒有看到重大的變化。時裝週向來是展示服裝設計的神聖之地,然而資深時尚記者Teri Agins有這樣感想:自1980年代起,「觀眾變得比衣服變得更重要」,說的便是時裝前排的明星效應。頭排成為了時裝展視覺效果的一部份,選擇誰坐在前排也會產生商業影響,決定了品牌被報導和被公眾接收訊息的方式。

時裝品牌對多樣性的重視絕不可被忽略,先是Chanel後是Gucci開設了「多元總監」的位置,以確保品牌在面向國際觀眾時能避免文化侵犯的問題,又促進公司內部的員工組成能更為多元。因此,來到提倡多元性的現在,時裝周頭排的明星及influencers的文化背景自然豐富了許多,但這也容易被人認為是象徵性的做法,是時候給予時裝展頭排的編輯及買手們,也就是所謂的內行人們一些關注。

 

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 11: (L-R) Carol Maraj, Nicki Minaj, Sofia Richie, Amber Heard, Kate Beckinsale, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Dianna Agron and Nicky Hilton Rothschild attend the Oscar De La Renta front Row during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios Terrace on September 11, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 11: (L-R) Carol Maraj, Nicki Minaj, Sofia Richie, Amber Heard, Kate Beckinsale, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Dianna Agron and Nicky Hilton Rothschild attend the Oscar De La Renta front Row during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios Terrace on September 11, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)

時裝內行人的多元性不足呈現在多個局面:包括以非白人擔任傳統品牌的高層的情況仍十分少見,比如Louis Vuitton任命Virgil Abloh,英國版Vogue的主編Edward Enningful。你或許會想到LVMH在今年打破歷史正式與第一位黑人女性成立品牌,但我們絕不能忽略Rihanna作為明星的影響力。

在設計師及造型師方面,2017/18學年,倫敦藝術大學UAL(包括中央聖馬丁學院和倫敦時裝學院)的一年級本土本科學生中有69%來自白人背景。加上時尚行業聘請新人的方式也多看熟人介紹,入門級的時裝工作通常薪金不高,因此這變相為具有相似種族,文化和經濟背景的人進入內行提供特權。

LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: (L to R) Jeon Do-yeon, Hayley Atwell, Gabriella Wilde, Simon Neil, Alison Mosshart, Paloma Faith, Sienna Miller, Harry Styles, Suki Waterhouse, George Barnett and Naomie Harris attend the front row at Burberry Prorsum Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 show during London Fashion Week at Kensington Gardens on September 16, 2013 in London, England. (Photo by David M. Benett/Getty Images for Burberry)

LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: (L to R) Jeon Do-yeon, Hayley Atwell, Gabriella Wilde, Simon Neil, Alison Mosshart, Paloma Faith, Sienna Miller, Harry Styles, Suki Waterhouse, George Barnett and Naomie Harris attend the front row at Burberry Prorsum Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 show during London Fashion Week at Kensington Gardens on September 16, 2013 in London, England. (Photo by David M. Benett/Getty Images for Burberry)

不過,有許多機構已意識到要改變內部的局面,例如Teen Vogue的Generation Next以及倫敦的Fashion East,都在給予多元種族更多聲音。或許時尚內行終究想保留它的尊貴與神秘,但在多元及可持續才是未來的趨勢下,小圈子被開放是遲早的事,不過這個進程難免比給消費者看的光鮮外圈慢了一點。