Runway

我們生在最好的時裝年代:Carine Roitfeld首個時裝展將九十年代與現代接軌

Carine Roitfeld首個時裝展帶我們回顧九十年代經典:Karl Lagerfeld、Thierry Mugler、Christian Lacroix、還有更多。

by Cherry Mui

by Cherry Mui

17 Jun 2019

時裝總是在致敬亦在更新,而從一位鑑賞甚至定義了90年代時裝產業的前《Vogue Paris》主編的眼中看,似乎最合適不過。除了身任《Harper’s Bazzar》全球時尚總監,Carine Roitfeld與兒子Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld開創自家時尚刊物《CR Fashion Book》、拍紀錄片、與Karl Lagerfeld聯乘,在時裝界無所不能的她推出了首個CR Runway成為了2020 Pitti Uomo男裝週的壓軸展示。

和好友Karl Lagerfeld一樣,Carine Roitfeld總是在與時並進,她也是Karl Lagerfeld個人品牌的時尚顧問。不過不要誤會,首場CR時裝展並非展示自己的成衣系列,Carine Roitfeld與弗羅倫薩歷史悠久的奢侈品購物中心LuisaViaRoma合作,呈現了新舊接合的102套向九十年代致敬的造型,也貫徹Roitfeld喜愛的大膽戲劇風格。為了符合這場時裝展的主題,Carine Roitfeld自己也選擇穿著1994年 John Galliano的設計出席。

時裝展選址於意大利弗羅倫薩的米開朗琪羅廣場,奠定了古典又神聖的氣息。模特兒陣容也是星光熠熠:由身穿Karl Lagerfeld設計的Gigi Hadid開場;其後不同時代的超模化身不同品牌的繆思女神包括Bella Hadid、Alek Wek, Doutzen Kroes, Natasha Poly, Lara Stone, Joan Smalls、Mariacarla Boscono和Stella Maxwell;這也是超模Irina Shayk自分手風波後的的首場回歸天橋展示。

FLORENCE, ITALY - JUNE 13: General view at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Claudio Lavenia /Claudio Lavenia )

FLORENCE, ITALY - JUNE 13: General view at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Claudio Lavenia /Claudio Lavenia )

Vittoria Ceretti,Gigi Hadid and Mariacarla Boscono in vintage Karl Lagerfeld

Vittoria Ceretti,Gigi Hadid and Mariacarla Boscono in vintage Karl Lagerfeld

經典的時裝設計是舊,在新一代社交媒體成就出的超級模特們演繹下,與90年代經典的天橋圖片對比出新的視覺體驗。我們不得不承認Roitfeld知道如何匯集最好的九十年代,整個時裝秀包含了vintage的時裝:黑白經典Karl Lagerfeld、Christian Lacroix的高級訂製浪漫禮服、媚俗戲劇大師Thierry Mugler、時裝建築師Gianfranco Ferré 、極簡代表Helmut Lang;也包含了最新一季的時裝、如2019秋冬系列的Versace、Dior、Gucci、Off-White、Fendi、Givenchy、 Richard Quinn等等。

Irina Shayk, Bella Hadid and Joan Smalls in Thierry Mugler, walk the CR Runway x LuisaViaRoma at Piazzale Michelangelo during the Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)

Irina Shayk, Bella Hadid and Joan Smalls in Thierry Mugler, walk the CR Runway x LuisaViaRoma at Piazzale Michelangelo during the Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)

Thierry Mugler FW 1998, Couture 1995 and FW 1998

Thierry Mugler FW 1998, Couture 1995 and FW 1998

FLORENCE, ITALY - JUNE 13: Natasha Poly walks the runway, wearing Lacroix , at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
FLORENCE, ITALY – JUNE 13 : Doutzen Kroes walks the CR Runway x LuisaViaRoma at Piazzale Michelangelo during the Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
FLORENCE, ITALY - JUNE 13: Natasha Poly walks the runway, wearing Lacroix , at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
FLORENCE, ITALY – JUNE 13 : Doutzen Kroes walks the CR Runway x LuisaViaRoma at Piazzale Michelangelo during the Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
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Birgit Kos, Meghan Roche and He Cong in Gianfranco Ferre, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)

Birgit Kos, Meghan Roche and He Cong in Gianfranco Ferre, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)

Gianfranco Ferre 90s collection

Gianfranco Ferre 90s collection

Gigi Hadid, Anok Yai and Vittoria Ceretti walk the runway, wearing Versace, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Claudio Lavenia /Claudio Lavenia )
Ruth Bell in Dior (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Dwight and Alexandra in Gucci, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Yoon in Moschino, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Models in Fendi, at the CR Runway x LuisaViaRoma at Piazzale Michelangelo during the Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
FLORENCE, ITALY – JUNE 13 : A model walks the CR Runway x LuisaViaRoma at Piazzale Michelangelo during the Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
Blanca Padilla in Rimowa, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Jonas and Sora Choi in Burberry, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Kristers Krumins and Bella Hadid in Off White, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Lara Stone in Richard Quinn , at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Gigi Hadid, Anok Yai and Vittoria Ceretti walk the runway, wearing Versace, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Claudio Lavenia /Claudio Lavenia )
Ruth Bell in Dior (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Dwight and Alexandra in Gucci, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Yoon in Moschino, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Models in Fendi, at the CR Runway x LuisaViaRoma at Piazzale Michelangelo during the Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
FLORENCE, ITALY – JUNE 13 : A model walks the CR Runway x LuisaViaRoma at Piazzale Michelangelo during the Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
Blanca Padilla in Rimowa, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Jonas and Sora Choi in Burberry, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Kristers Krumins and Bella Hadid in Off White, at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
Lara Stone in Richard Quinn , at the CR runway x LUISAVIAROMA 90th Anniversary Show during Pitti Immagine Uomo 96 on June 13, 2019 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for LuisaViaRoma)
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