眾人心愛的時裝攝影師Peter Lindbergh 四個月前與世長辭,有關他的書籍和展覽接踵而來。繼Dior收集了這名時裝攝影師的作品輯錄成書後,下個月的德國杜塞爾多夫(Kingstpalast)美術館將會舉行他的攝影展。展覽由 Peter Lindbergh生前親自策劃,展品將會涵蓋Linda Evangelista,Karen Elson等時尚偶像的照片。

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"In the mid-1980s, Lindbergh explained to Alexander Liberman, the legendary editorial director of Condé Nast, that he simply couldn’t relate to the images of over-styled women that Vogue featured. “I couldn’t stand the kind of woman who was featured in the magazine, supported by the rich husband,” he told me a few years ago. When Liberman asked him to produce a photo of the kind of woman he wanted to portray, Lindbergh went to the beach in Santa Monica with Linda Evangelista, Karen Alexander, Christy Turlington, Estelle Lefébure, Tatjana Patitz and Rachel Williams. Dressed in oversized white shirts, the result was the antithesis of the formal composition of fashion photography and its strictly regimented codes, which at the time meant headshots of heavily made-up models. Instead, Lindbergh showed these barely known models, unpretentious and giggling together, in a moment of sheer joy and authenticity that transcended cosmetics, retouching and extravagant fashion. The pictures were initially rejected by Liberman and Grace Mirabella, the editor of American Vogue at the time. Shortly after, however, Anna Wintour arrived at the magazine and upon finding the photos in a drawer in the art department, she called Lindbergh in. Wintour commissioned Lindbergh to shoot the cover of her debut issue in November 1988, featuring Israeli model Michaela Bercu in a cropped bejewelled Christian Lacroix jumper and stonewashed jeans, smiling with her eyes half-closed, head turning away from the camera. At the time it was a revelation, signalling a move towards an uninhibited, pluralistic representation of beauty." . by Osman Ahmed (British Vogue, September 2019) – Estelle Lefébure, Karen Alexander, Rachel Williams, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patite & Christy Turlington, Santa Monica, California, 1988 #LindberghStories

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時裝攝影師Peter Lindbergh與《Vogue》一向關係密切。他喜歡描捉女性自在的一面,不主張修圖和畫上誇張妝容的風格,定義了整個1990年代的時裝攝影方向。他為英國版《Vogue》1988年九月號拍攝的超模故事,成為了《Vogue》的經典影像。

每個年代的時裝風格和取向,也是由各方面的創作單位組合而成。在後現代的思維下,我們已經很難看到像Peter Lindbergh般能重新定義美學的時裝攝影師了。