In an era of fashion dominated by “commercial luxury” and increasing brand fatigue, a quiet but meaningful shift is taking place — the resurgence of bespoke and custom-made bags. As consumers grow weary of mass-produced “luxury” items, which are often manufactured in large volumes with flashy logos that outshine craftsmanship, many are also becoming increasingly aware of the industry’s darker undercurrents. In recent months, widespread labour issues and manufacturing scandals have tarnished the reputation of some of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses. This is why now more than ever, the appeal of slow, intentional artistry, where transparency, ethics, and individuality take precedence, is securing its rightful place at the forefront of “conscious” luxury.
At its core, luxury has always been about rarity, quality, artistry, and craftsmanship. When something is made specifically for a person with the consideration of their needs, preferences, and even personality, it becomes inherently purposeful and valuable. A bag that is custom-made and hand-stitched in an independent and often smaller atelier using responsibly-sourced materials transforms it into a personal artefact. Crafted by skilled artisans who devote hours, even days, to each piece, these bags are the antithesis of fast, mass-market luxury. They carry the imprint of a personal human touch, care, and expertise, which no factory assembly line or global marketing campaigns can replicate.
This shift is fueled by consumers who prize authenticity over labels and logos, and by those who seek meaningful purchases rather than conspicuous consumption. There is a growing awareness that true luxury lies in owning something no one else has, and is created by someone who has dedicated years to mastering their craft. In contrast to mass luxury’s celebrity and trend-driven cycles as well as status-signalling, custom-made bags offer timelessness, exude quiet confidence, and whisper refinement. They are built to last, both physically and aesthetically, and often become heirlooms rather than seasonal accessories. In this sense, custom craftsmanship is not only a return to luxury’s roots but is also, in a way, a rebellion against its current over-commercialisation. As global tastes become more refined and discerning, the most exclusive item is no longer the one seen on every celebrity or influencer’s feed — it’s the one that’s made just for you!
To help you begin your journey into the world of bespoke leather goods, here are five independent ateliers I highly recommend. Each one specialises in crafting exquisite custom-made bags, using only premium materials sourced from some of the world’s finest tanneries:
Atelier Renard
Atelier Renard remains one of my favourite hidden gems in Paris. Tucked away in a charming courtyard in the 7th arrondissement, this discreet atelier has been quietly crafting timeless leather pieces since 1940. Today, it’s led by Brigitte Montaut, later joined by Rémi Meunier, and operates with just three dedicated artisans who stay faithful to the tradition of slow, meticulous craftsmanship. Each bespoke piece takes around three months to complete, with clients involved in every stage of the design process, either in person (a huge plus for the full experience) or via video call. The Le Renard belted tote is a new favourite, seamlessly marrying two different premium leathers: pebbled Taurillon Clemence and smooth Baranil calfskin. The contrast between these textures offers a refined study in balance. It is distinct and simply luxurious!
Atelier Chim
Chim began her leathercraft journey in 2018 after completing the CAP Maroquinerie course in Paris. In those succeeding three years, she proceeded to work as a prototypist with the founding Moynat team under its first creative director, Ramesh Nair. She has since mastered the art of leather marquetry, a precise and intricate craft of inlaying leather to form detailed patterns or images on a surface. Chim later relocated from France to Kuching, Borneo, where she now runs a female-led atelier alongside two craftswomen and a weaver, producing handmade bags with a minimum wait time of two months. I took advantage of Chim’s marquetry expertise to custom-make a small Elena top-handle cat bag in epsom leather, and it turned out irresistibly cute! I also customised her signature Ishidatami Ecocraft tote, made with an entirely handwoven, waterproof, and eco-friendly “paper rattan” material popularly used in Japan, which proved to be the perfect companion for summer. Given the high level of craftsmanship and very reasonable price points, Atelier Chim’s bags are no doubt standout investments.
Atelier Subdivise
After Stéphane Lemaître earned his art degree in Nice, France, in 1998 and worked as a graphic designer until 2014, his disillusionment with digital design and urban life led him to the quiet countryside of Boisset-Saint-Priest, where he founded Atelier Subdivise in 2015. A self-taught leather craftsman, he began making leather goods only by hand, using specifically vegetable-tanned leather and linen thread, prioritising ecological integrity and durability, as well as independence from machines. Each piece, from design to photography, is created by him alone, reinforcing his stance against mass production. His signature aesthetic, clearly highlighted in his molded bags, lies in creating distinctive, structured pieces that exude a robust yet refined look. Each of his pieces is designed for longevity and will “age gracefully,” acquiring a rich, lived-in patina over time.
LuKat de Tourane
Minh Chau Vu started her brand in March 2015 as a passion project before going full-time in 2016. Self-taught in leathercraft, she impressively learned through trial, error, and close observation of master artisans online. Her meticulous, elegant style is inspired by Japanese craftsmanship, and she works alongside her co-founder Thao and one assistant, who helps manage branding and operations. Based in Da Nang, Vietnam, Chau handcrafts each piece with care — small accessories typically take 6 to 7 weeks, while custom bags require about 3 to 4 months to complete, depending on design complexity and order queue. After months of closely following their work, I collaborated with her to execute my own bag design, and a few exchanges of emails and ideas later, the top-handle bag I commissioned in textured chevre (goatskin) leather came to life. And needless to say, the bag really surpassed my expectations!
Mila Jito
Lilli Storella is a self-taught leather craftswoman who began her journey in 2013, combining her design background with a passion for leather to start her business. After moving to New Hampshire, USA, from China in 2019, she now runs the brand full-time with her husband, who shares her same background in design. All pieces are made to order, with a six-month waitlist! Clients can customise every detail — from exterior leather, down to hardware and thread colour. I’m particularly intrigued by the Mirus 30 bag, which takes about 8 days to complete. Its classic shape is elevated by an innovative “M” harness system exclusive to the brand, and comes with a detachable exterior pocket, adding to the bag’s character, versatility, and function.
Editor
Ingrid Chua
