Tom Ford channeled a more subdued glamour for Autumn/Winter 2019 Ready-to-Wear, which perhaps wasn’t immediately evident in the plush velvets, faux furs and lustrous silks, but more perceptible in his return to the steady elegance of tailored classics. “I do think that the political climate has influenced my designs,” Tom Ford admitted to British Vogue after his show at New York Fashion Week. “I don’t mean that I wanted to do something in reaction to it, but I feel beatun up; worn out. I don’t want to look at aggressive clothes. I want to look at something beautiful and soft and pared down a bit.”

Ford found sartorial therapy in the archival works of his Gucci heyday. He revisited the iconic ’90s tailoring codes that made his Tom Ford suit a cut above the rest — wide-set shoulders, turned-up collars, and a nipped-in waist. The same immaculate silhouette appeared on his 2019 womenswear runway, refreshed with a modern color palette of muted jewel tones, deep reds and purples, and steadfast neutrals ranging from slate grey to khaki green. The sharp suiting was softened by cocoons of puffer coats and the occasional layering of a hoodie, and closed off with a series of silk jersey evening gowns.